Alphasys

I've not (yet) worked with g2f, but since the exe reproduces the picture in a pixel-perfect way, all information needed should still be contained inside the exe. Probably needs some clever cutting and pasting to reproduce the g2f importable files.

I sent in the foil to a PCB manufacturer and soldered every lead to the main board with ribbon cable. My foil suffered the "corrosive foil syndrome" but it worked as a template in copper.

I iz kinda new here, and infrequent at best.

Once... Years ago... When I still lived with my parents, and I still had working and ready real hardware... I spent a whole night reading the Big Demo... All of it... And I was sure my monitor would hurl itself off my desk at any time. It was a dizzying experience, and I don't remember half a word of it... But I remember the experience... Whoah... Trippy.

Wiring the resistors to the open side of the switch saves a bit of current, and works well. You're an idiot if you change OS versions during operation anyway.

I think everyone has seen Numen... And that was already way more pallatable to the eyes than that...bleeding eye syndrome... Maybe that could serve as a basis of some sort? Just throwing an idea here, probably not the brightest...

There's more errors in that sheet than I dare count. But no matter what that one sheet says, other official documents do it right, although even they used upper case at times. Some people just don't take care about such seeming trivialities, and back then, the 6502C wasn't even made yet, so it didn't really matter. Just goes to show how such a small thing as letter case, matters in technical things. People been talking on about speed, and it never even was relevant to the question. <reason for edit: I read the date wrong and said this was an issue for a year, but it's only 2 weeks, kinda. lol But the thread was long enough to have taken over a year. >

Maybe you can explain a bit more? How are the lx12, sio2sd and atari connected? Does it help when you disconnect something? Turbo2000 is a program I don't know, but I suppose it's a turbo cassette preloader/convertor program? If you have only the lx12 connected to the Atari when trying to do this, there is possibly some damage in either the cassette player, or the Atari. Worst case scenario is some damage to the pokey chip. If all 3 devices are connected, try it without the sio2sd connected. If that helps, the sio2sd is somehow degrading or blocking the signal. Hope that helps diagnose the problem...

After reading this entire thread, I noticed you guys are constantly talking about Sally as the 6502C. This is not correct. Sally is a 6502c. <--- Lower case, guys! You really have to be accurate about this. It's kept this thread going on about speed designations for so long, when it's not even an issue. It's irrelevant to Sally's designation. The lower case c does however stand for "custom". For what I know about the internals, Atari got the license from Rockwell to use it's design, and they added the /Halt logic, also buffering the address and data buses so it'll go into "High Z" or high-impedance mode when halted. This makes it possible for Antic to take over those buses fully. The dynamic ram inside the Atari will never fail to be refreshed, since Antic is responsible for what's known as CAS-only refreshing of the RAM. There is ALWAYS one processor (yes, Antic is a processor too) using the buses inside the Atari. Basically, Sally is the Slave processor of Antic in this case, since Antic dictates when Sally may use the buses.

Very nice picture. I hope she'll do more, maybe even do some art for the coders that are challenged in this department, like me?

I have Freddy in my Facebook friends list. I guess that's the easiest way to get a hold of him at the moment, although he hasn't posted anything since November 28th. I think his chello mail still works, although he uses gmail with facebook. I've sent him a PM there with the link to this topic. Maybe he'll show up? You mean this? Supermon HTT.zip

Nice find! I'd love to go hands-on with something like that. I have no idea how to interface the joystick, but with a simple multimeter, it should be straightforward enough to figure out.

Back in the day, I've looked at a stereo expansion for C64. It's now over 20 years ago, but the project was dropped mostly due to the fact that spare SID's were really hard to come by, without ripping another C64 apart. Pokey's on the other hand, were relatively cheap and easy to get. I recall getting a Pokey for 30 guilders, whereas a new SID would have set me back over 100 guilders then. Besides the price I recall some issues in the addressing and something about needing quite a lot of extra components to recreate the circuitry between the chip and actual sound output. But it's been way too long ago to recall clearly. The price alone would have killed the project anyways, since back then, 100 guilders was a whole lot of money for a teenager. (It's like 45 euro's.)

Why use a loopback driver like this, when you can simply connect to yourself over 127.0.0.1 aka localhost?

Refurbishing can be hard, but it kinda depends on what controllers you have. If you have stirdy sticks with microswitches, those can be easily replaced, and a faulty cable can also be exchanged pretty easy, as long as the actual stick and housing are okay. The paddles can be a little tricky, since it can be hard to find a fitting replacement for the potentiometers. If you have the handheld joysticks with a firebutton on either side, that kinda look like a startrek fazer, those are kinda bad to fix. They mostly have foil contacts, and are crazy hard to pull apart, and it's hard to find replacements. Maybe your best bet there is to buy a Genesis controller from e-bay or something like that. It'll work, but ofcourse only 1 fire button will actually be used then.

I have 4. Tricked out 130XE (sadly not functional now, but never gonna part with it and will repair it eventually), 600XL with 64k, and two original 800 XE's. Depending on the game, I may be persuaded to dish out cash, but it's unlikely to be more than 50 dollars, unless it's a really really REALLY good game and I desperately want it. The cheaper the better in any case, since I'm always strut for cash.

One thing not mentioned, and of which I'm pretty sure to cause this difference: All discrete components in our beloved Atari's have a tolerance. This is typical 5% of the value. Since video works with relatively high frequencies, the difference in actual value can cause a slight delay/phase-shift, causing a difference in artifact colors.

To me this sounds like a pull-up resistor problem. Since only the 00 base works. Maybe forgot to hook up the +5V on the pull-up resistors? Or maybe the resistors themselves are too high a value? I've primarily used 10k ohm resistors for this kind of job.

What's one of the programs? Not hard to implement, but I'd need something to test against. For example, Klony 2010. Thank you very much. See also New GUI for the Atari 8-bit #137 - #139

ST mouse: L->R xx10 xx11 xx01 xx00 ST mouse: U->D 10xx 11xx 01xx 00xx Amiga: L->R 1x0x 0x0x 0x1x 1x1x Amiga: U->D x0x1 x1x1 x1x0 x0x0 I hope that's clear enough...

With the speed of this kind of hardware, you will have no problems with stray RF. It's way too slow to cause trouble. What you do have to take into account is the length of the cable though. With long leads, you may end up contaminating your own signals due to the capacitance. This can be helped by alternating signal lines and ground, usually. Although I did use ribbon cable with the eightlink cartridges over 30+ meters (100+ feet) without any problems. On the other side, you may get some interference on the Atari hardware if you have RF signals nearby. Also then, this is usually avoided by alternating a signal line and ground. This will make the ribbon wider, but more secure.

Only app I can recall that is able to use Amiga mouse (aswell as ST mouse) is the Black Magic Composer. It should be in Port 2, and Amiga/ST modes can be switched by pressing Select.

Just two days later, and I get the "user removed the video" thing. Too bad.

I'll try to make something for this... Not sure what it's gonna be, nor if it'll be anything good, but the effort, and for me, reconnecting with a hobby I almost abandoned for 20-some years, will be appreciated in this community I hope. For now, I'm thinking a seeding kind of demo. Using some common tricks with 128 color mode graphics, with some morphology routines to make it interesting. User input implied, yet optional. I suck at music, so if someone can make a slow trance track in binary load format, that would suit the idea, it'll be welcome. Preferably loaded in the $A000+ space. I'm looking for music to accompany a slowly morphing semi-organic entity. Preferably using the picture as some sort of input to make it as dynamic as the graphics. Hit me up with a friend request here, or whatever means you deem necessary if you'd like to help me out here. Even if you just want to find out about my ideas for this thing.

Maybe I'll make Paint 256 work with the touch tablet. Just not really sure how the data range is with these devices. If you can supply me with peek values from the adresses for upper left corner, lower right corner and button press, I might be able to whip it up pretty quickly. I'm not sure if the pen button and the side buttons had different detection possibilities, but if so, those may come in handy. Also I think a koala pad had a similar function, but somehow some input was reversed in comparison to the touch tablet? Maybe you can check on that and give me some readings on those coordinates too? Will be fun revisiting that old listing again. To bad the version with the "smooth" function got lost in the big disk crash of 1998... But I maybe able to recode that one again. I'm quite rusty when it comes to Atari Programming these days.