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About cwilkson

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    Novi, MI
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    Atari2600 Hardware, teaching electronics, Analog Computing

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  1. The think the "tying the belt to a sign to climb down" thing was from another game. Because it was a graphic text adventure. So it was not Scott Adams' Pirate Adventure. EDIT: Obsessive searching produced the answer. It was Blackbeard's Island, from Tom Mix Software.
  2. I don't know how to edit previous posts. But 2 updates to the above: The manual I found online was the C16 version. But I remember the maps in there so I must have had a manual. "...this website" refers to http://www.pixelatedarcade.com/ One more thing: Here's a video that I found. I must have had that same collection because I remember that DIR listing!
  3. One more update. Colorcomputerarchive list them by disk. All of them. Hmm.....
  4. Actually, I've poked around a bit and found the Pirate Adventure manual online. Mine was an original manual or a good photo copy of one. The game was released for Coco in 1983 according to this website. So were a few other Scott Adams games. The Count (I had it) and Voodoo Castle (maybe had it?) so that's 3 at least. They were all released on cassette for 16k Coco1. But my copies were on disk. I don't remember the labels, but it sounds like maybe I had bootlegs.
  5. I have no idea. Sorry. It's been a loooong time and I was a 13 year old trying to learn computer stuff on my own in the middle of nowhere. I played the games enough that I remember bit and pieces pretty well. Like tying my belt to a sign to climb down a cliff. But I don't remember the manuals very well. Might have just been somebody's typewritten notes.
  6. I remember playing "The Count" and "Pirate Adventure" on my Coco 2. They were disk images with printed manuals. Don't recall if they were legit Coco2 releases or if I purchased them in a garage sale hoard of "stuff".
  7. Sorry...not a lot of free time... there is a problem on the motherboard. The only likely way a mod will help is if it completely isolates the TIA pins from the MB. Gotta find that problem first! I can help with debug over a zoom call. But you need an oscilloscope on hand during the call. Even a loaner scope will do.
  8. There are enough 2600's around that it's ok to experiment and learn as you go. Good job! Keep it up! This is a problem with the motherboard. Swapping a TIA from a known good system without improvement has proven that. So the problem is easily fixed...once you find it. The 5V power seems good according to your measurements. The boosted delay voltage on pin 10 shouldn't affect it either. It could be a leaky component or it could be some kind of reflection coming out of the RF section or it could be....something? But it's 100% fixable. Do you have the ability to make a EPROM cartridge? Or have something like a programmable cartridge (Harmony, etc....I'm not sure what out there these days)? If you do then I can send you a test .BIN so you have a known video signal for testing visually or with a scope. If you do decide to get an oscilloscope, get a used analog one, with 2 or 4 channels, 50MHz or above, and demonstrated all channels working. This will be under $100 and could be $50. You don't need anything fancy for working on these. And as always, ask for help in this thread. Where are you located? Some areas are flush with used gear, some not so much. You may also be near someone with a scope that you could borrow.
  9. The ghost is in the machine! I agree with -^CrossBow^-. Since you have some luma issues I don't think another upgrade will make a lot of difference. The CyberTech might be able to do it but I haven't made those in years and it's still a crap shoot without knowing the root cause of the ghosting. If you had an oscilloscope you could chase the individual signals around the MB and find the problem. But without that, a chip swap is the only thing I can think of to try. Did you say you already tried swapping the TIA from the working console into this one?
  10. Crazy idea....try a different monitor!!
  11. Yeah, a lot of people don't have a 'scope. That's fine. We can try it with a multimeter. Do you have one? If so, measure the DC volts from pin 20 (+5V) to pin 1 (GND) on the TIA. It should read 5.0V or very close. Then measure the AC volts at the same points. It should read 0.0V. The closer the better. Report back.
  12. Ok very nice. Hard to tell with 100% certainty from the photos, but it looks like some ghosting is present in the luma. (looking at the ladder and especially the brick wall.) Is that real? Or a photo artifact? Only thing I could imagine would be a weak or dirty +5V supply. Do you by chance have an oscilloscope?
  13. That's not a fix. That's a test. To see if those ripples are caused by luma or chroma weirdness.
  14. Ok. There are a couple of easy ways to separate the chroma on the motherboard. The most effective solder free way is to lift pin 9 of the TIA out of the socket so that just hangs in the air. That will completely disable [intentional] color. First, pull the chip from the socket. Then gently bend the LARGE PART of the pin up just enough that it will miss the socket. Then reinstall the IC. If you're squeamish about bending the IC pins, (I don't blame you!) then you can remove R228 from the board. You actually only need to lift one end out of the board. R228 is the 1K resistor, 2nd from the right end of the TIA in your picture. It's just to the left of that blue colored diode. With that resistor out of the circuit you should also lose [intentional] color. With the TIA's color output disconnected from the video circuit on the MB, you should just see a grayscale image on the monitor. Note: With this motherboard revision, their is a resistor to enhance color saturation. It will cause unintended color lines on the left and right of the screen. That's what's causing the blue line on the left of your Pitfall screen. Without the TIA's color burst output, hopefully it will just go away. But it may linger as a different gray level line. You can ignore this for now.
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