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Syntaxerror999

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Everything posted by Syntaxerror999

  1. Have you tried Best Electronics? http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/
  2. I didn't see Freeway on that list. I own a copy that says "international Edition" on it.
  3. Be surprised no longer! http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/167082-atari-reboot-front-page-of-the-la-times-business-section/ Thats better. Woulda figured it would of gotten a home page write-up, but I guess they're too busy making posts to sell us their latest wares. Or what obscure location the next "big" convention is. This news could be bad for us. The new atari might not like a website giving away ROMS of their copywrited material (unless its all public domain now). Then again Activision's been pretty quiet and neither Imagic, or US games have risen from the dead as Zombies to come after us.
  4. This artical from the LA Times is about a month old and I am surprised that it didn't get mentioned on Atariage, so I figured I'd better break the word. http://articles.latimes.com/2010/aug/03/business/la-fi-ct-atari-20100803 Make sure to read all 3 pages... the website doesn't make it very clear that the artical continues.
  5. This artical from the LA Times is about a month old and I am surprised that it didn't get mentioned on Atariage, so I figured I'd better break the word.

    http://articles.latimes.com/2010/aug/03/business/la-fi-ct-atari-20100803

  6. Recently I opened up my Heavy 6er (without the channel select switch) and noticed the back plate may or may have not been making contact with solder points on the upper lip where the rest of the motherboard sticks out. I put it all together and everything seemed to play fine, but the next day when I hooked it all up, when I plugged my sega controller into the left port, the screen got all wavy and I heard a feedback hum. One of the paddles in a set would be dead as well. Regular joysticks worked ok and anything plugged into the right port worked fine as well. I took it all apart and lined the lip of the backplate with electrical tape and everything seems to work fine. Is it important for the motherboard to make contact with the shielding box at this point (already makes contact at one of the screws), or was this the cause of my issue? I did play the unit with no problems after taking it apart the first time.
  7. Ok, first off im not SELLING TIA chips, im looking for someone that is. I know forums tend to frown upon advertising on posts, but id like to get ahold of a TIA chip or to without having to kill an Atari to do it. Given that the specs are avalable to the public, SOMEONE out there has to be making them... god knows someone made all those mod chips for playstations, xbox's and Wii's...
  8. I'm considering that for the Mark II. Truth be known I'll probably never get around to building it. I can read a schematic, and I know what most electronic parts do, but thats as far as I know when it comes to electronics, so needless to say this project will be a challenge. But the more and more I look at the atari design, the simpler it seems to me... even if I couldnt tell you what "that resistor" or what "that capacitor" is for. The idea of using a HD case makes sense...uniformed form factor so I can share my design, built in power supply, USB port I can tap into for an internal Harmony cart. Sure I could just hack an atari apart... but what fun would that be... especialy if I can eliminate useless parts... to give you an example... Theory : Connected to TIA pins 2,5,7,8,9,12, and 13 are components that are all related to the RF output. they connect into no other part of the Atari. Video output mods tap into these pins on the TIA, so its my theory that I can incorporate a video mod on my custom board, and not not have to include the RF output parts at all. I probably still need the parts that connect into TIA pin 10 though, but there may be a video mod that replaceds these as well. Theory 2 : Ben Heckendorn's book shows a section of the atari 4 switch (board ver 16 I think) being cut off. I examined the parts on that section (best I could anyways) and aside from all the parts connected to the origional power input are gone, but many .1 and .01 capacitors that are placed between the circut and the ground are also missing and yet the board still works. My theory is that these and others like them are static electricity buffers as they all seem to be on every plug, port, and switch, and are not needed in my design. However the case is metal so I may need all of them back.
  9. My bad, its 3.3 and 5 volts. D'oh!
  10. Thanx, big help for me! The goal is to streamline the design to the fewest parts possible. Any thought to the other question?
  11. i have an idea for an atari project utilizing the power source of a portable HD shell (a casing that lets you turn a conventional PC Hard Drive into a portable Hard Drive.) The case uses the standard HDD/fan power plug with a 3.5 volt and a 5.5 DC volt lines. If I combine this, I have enough juice to power an atari per its origional power specs, but the question is, how do i combine two voltages into one? Also according to the atari project in Ben Heckendorn's book, I can power the atari on a 7 volt battery without the power source components, (the series of capacitors along the ground lines where the incomming voltage is located... although the book does add the voltage regulator of course. refer to the schematic in the atari field service guide for a clearer picture of what i am refering to.)... Will I need them for my project? If i combined the voltages and dropped it down to 7 volts will I still need them? More importantly if its possible to power the atari without them, then what are they used for in the first place? PS. Atari field service guide link http://www.atariguide.com/pdfs/Atari_2600_VCS_Domestic_Field_Service_Manual.pdf Turn to page 42...42...lol...realy does pop up everywhere...hmmm..."what page in the field manual is the schematic on"...42...nope, doesnt work...not exactly an ultimate question. pps after compairing what part of the board Heckendorn used, i noticed some of the capacitors comming off ground leads are not used..example the ones attached to the control port leads and comming off pin 20 of the TIA chip... course the silk screen layout is difficult to read.
  12. Heres a post I recently made. Hope it helps http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/164217-field-service-manuals/
  13. Hmmm... tried to submit that as a related URL, but got a 404 error.
  14. repost from 2600 forum page Hey, I found these on another webpage and did not find them in the atariage archives so i figured I would post the links until they get added. Its the field manuals given to licenced repair shops. Aside from troubleshooting info it also contains how to instructions for that diagnostic cart, silkscreen and schematics, parts list, and a few design flaw workarounds. Do check these out if you have a non working atari. 2600/2600a field manual http://www.atariguide.com/pdfs/Atari_2600_VCS_Domestic_Field_Service_Manual.pdf 5200 field manual http://www.atariguide.com/pdfs/Atari_5200_Field_Service_Manual.pdf
  15. Hey, I found these on another webpage and did not find them in the atariage archives so i figured I would post the links until they get added. Its the field manuals given to licenced repair shops. Aside from troubleshooting info it also contains how to instructions for that diagnostic cart, silkscreen and schematics, parts list, and a few design flaw workarounds. Do check these out if you have a non working atari. 2600/2600a field manual http://www.atariguide.com/pdfs/Atari_2600_VCS_Domestic_Field_Service_Manual.pdf 5200 field manual http://www.atariguide.com/pdfs/Atari_5200_Field_Service_Manual.pdf
  16. Syntaxerror999

    ok

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