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Rex Dart

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Posts posted by Rex Dart

  3. Posted

    Man, I wish I could answer, but I still don't have a working two-button 7800 controller. Sure, I've got tons of the stock 7800 controllers, but apparently if they've ever been used in the past then they won't work in the present. They're horrible. I've been considering modding some master system or megadrive pads to work, but haven't decided on which type to gut yet.

  4. Posted

    There was this Apple II (e?) game they'd let us play on the library computers way back in elementary school, and I'd like to check it out again, but can't remember the name or find anything online from my search attempts.

     

    It was in the style of Adventure on the VCS and possibly had Castle in the title. You'd wander around, picking up objects (only one at a time!) to carry to unlock doors, I think. Giant worms would try to eat you, and if eaten, it'd switch to an inside view of the worm's gut, allowing you to escape. I wish I could remember more, but I was 7 at the time. Any ideas?

  7. Posted

    Eh, I use one of those normally to hook my 7800 to my TV. You don't really need to cram it inside the system's case. But if you were hell-bent on swapping out the connector, then it'd be better to just buy a screw-in connector, drill a hole in the case, and solder that sucker to the correct spots on the motherboard.

  9. Posted · Edited by Rex Dart

     

    What I did was not change anything on R11 at all.

     

    You need to remove R3 to clear up the static of the audio in the video signal, but you don't need to change R11 at all. You will get the exact same color/brightness values as those from the factory RF connection (therefore it's a more accurate mod) by doing this, but with none of the RF noise.

     

     

    Right right, bad choice of words on my part. I was trying to ask if instead of replacing R11 with a 47K Ohm (step 3) and connecting a 47K Ohm to C14 (step 6), you simply did nothing & left both 47K resistors out of your mod.

     

    As far as the the 75 Ohm on the video plug though... what's going on with your revision? No connection there, right? That's what I assume, as it seems it would short out the video signal to ground, but I only have a basic understanding of A/V electronics.

  11. Posted

    Red 5, I'd love to see your plans for those racks too. Looks pretty easy to build & use.

     

    As for the MusicMate things, maybe they aren't all made exactly the same. Different production runs perhaps? I found some at a local used game store, tried sticking a random 2600 cart in there, and it would NOT fit. More than label-scraping tightness, the plastic was simply too large for the holder.

  13. Posted

    Just got a new 7800 this week, and after having experimented the living crap out of this mod on my old one, I'v posted some updates to Puppetmark's instructions for this mod that make it both EVEN EASIER, and much clearer video:

     

     

    Just to make sure I've got this correct before I start soldering... you've left out both of the original mod's 47K to 68K resistors, and where it originally included a 75 ohm resistor, you're simply not making that connection?

  16. Posted

    Right, and somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I've heard a bit about the composite output on his s-video mod having a bit of a delay or lag, or some funky issue. Of course, you can always add an s-video to composite convertor to the mod's s-video output.

  18. Posted · Edited by Rex Dart

    Honestly, it doesn't take great soldering skills, and so few parts are required that radio shack MAY have what you need (for once!). Also, since you're able to buy online, you might check out BG Micro for parts.

     

    edit: That kit on ebay REALLY looks like somebody just slapped together the same mod that's described in our 7800 forum here & jacked up the price by $25.

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