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atariguy1021

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Everything posted by atariguy1021

  1. I'm open to any and all suggestions but I make no promises. I will check the thread daily so if you have a good idea don't hesitate to share it and I will do the same. If the consensus is that it would be an improvement and I can implement it without too much difficulty then I will do so. I will explore the suggestions posted here in the time leading up to the arrival of the labels from pboland. After that, I'm going to finalize the code and wrap it up. Otherwise, this project could go on indefinitely and never come to fruition... I have enough of those projects! Also, I will take a look at the bill of materials and set a price over the weekend.
  2. Oh no, I started something here... I could program it so that a short press of 'Option' acts as 'Start' and a long press as 'Reset.' Then 'Pause' can go back to its properly labeled home. How does that sound? And the idea here is to be able to have 'C' mapped to a numerical key of the player's choosing? I just want to be sure I'm understanding this correctly.
  3. Is there any objection to this layout? A = Bottom Fire Button B = Top Fire Button C = Pause Option = Start Pause = Reset
  4. I recently finished a Jaguar to 5200 Adapter (Pics below). I wanted to start a thread here to gauge interest and get some input. I currently have the parts on hand to build ten units and will offer more in the future. I don't have a set price yet. There's a smooth recessed portion on the top of the project box for a label. I've been working with 'pboland' on a label for the project and he has also stated that he is willing to create 5200 overlays for the Jaguar controller if the demand is there. I currently have the buttons that aren't self explanatory mapped as follows: A = Bottom Fire Button B = Top Fire Button C = Start Option = Reset I was considering implementing a feature where some combo of button presses swaps the fire button mapping around. Not sure if anyone would make use of that? Any suggestions are welcome! I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff... more to follow! Size Reference Recessed Top for Label There's two small pots on the bottom to adjust vertical and horizontal center, a small Phillips screwdriver is needed.
  5. I can offer you a kit if you would like, send me a PM. I have the boards in my possession... I'm just waiting on an order of components. Edit: Added a photo of one of the assembled boards, the actual kit will have higher quality caps.
  6. I respectfully withdraw my “like” of your post... I didn't notice your edit. I was game for some friendly competition (even if that never was your intention), competition is good for the marketplace imho. And by competition, I mean competition with a worthy adversary who invested time and thought into this project, someone like you. In that scenario, the two competing parties each get some sales and the community hopefully gets an improved product at a lower price. Unfortunately, by sharing your work up until this point you've lowered the cost of entry to almost nothing. I can see why some would say something similar to, “Open sharing of these files is good for the community.” I disagree. If someone (or multiple someone's) now decide to make a run of your PCB's with the intention of making some quick money rather than the intended DIY objective, they have almost no money, time, or resources tied up in the project and can offer them for just above their cost and walk away happy. This person will likely add nothing to the project, use the lowest cost/quality parts they can find, and quite possibly not stand behind what they're selling if issues arise. They will likely fail in these areas, however, they may succeed in siphoning off the sales from the guy (Me!) who offers a quality, more polished product that they stand behind. And if sales dry up too much, there's little incentive to offer the higher quality product... Perhaps I was a bit territorial with my initial response, I've had some sort of relationship with these silly little boxes for almost 5 years (time flies!) judging from the date of the photos I shared in Post #31. I meant no offense and hopefully none was taken.
  7. Competition? I'm in! I can offer bare or assembled boards with a case of better quality that can be sourced. Hell, I can include the case and keypad at my cost. I'll place an order of new boards w/ some slight alterations that will make it more user friendly for the DIYer. I can have them by the end of this month. My design also has a built-in paddle mode for games like Kaboom and Super Breakout. I determined that these membrane keypads were unreliable in my testing and that's why I've stuck with the more expensive keypads that I've been using for years (they've never failed). Also, I abandoned low budget's circuit using the DG413 since the chip can be hard to find at a reasonable price. I instead opted for an equally reliable circuit that uses two CD4052's, which are reasonably priced and readily available. If you need to replace an IC in the future, which is more probable if you don't house the PCB in a proper case, you will be able to find them easily and for a fair price. If there's demand for a DIY version I'm happy to provide another alternative.
  8. Great seller! Bought a 4-switcher from him. It was as described and arrived quickly. Thanks!
  9. Using the paddle pictured below as an example, you would simply have to cut or desolder the yellow wire from the solder lug on the left and solder it to the solder lug on the right. The color of the wire may differ with your paddle.
  10. Just sent a PM your way... Maybe we can work something out
  11. Here's a link to my MarketPlace thread... http://atariage.com/forums/topic/244698-atari-5200-masterplay-clone-with-paddle-mode/ $62 Shipped in the continental US through the Holidays...
  12. Price reduction for the Holidays... $62 shipped in the continental US
  13. Nathan is an awesome guy to deal with! Always a great experience! Thanks!
  14. Modded a 7800 for Zeptari1... Great guy to deal with! Thanks!
  15. Right now I have them mapped (I believe) the way that Chart45 suggested... B = Left Fire Button A and Start (>) = Right Fire Button C and Select (>) = SAC button #3 . (Decimal) = SAC button #4 If you guys can confirm that this is the ideal layout of the buttons I will go ahead and have the PCB's printed this upcoming week. Keep your fingers crossed that my first attempt is successful so I can offer the boards at a lower price than the others. Unfortunately, my mistake with the NTT PCB's cost me a bit of money...
  16. I see my PM was read a couple of days ago... Any update on whether or not this is still available?
  17. Earlier this year, I sold a number of MasterPlay Clones with a circuit that low_budget designed and that he was gracious enough to let me use. Unfortunately, the supplier that I obtained the cables for use with that design has no more remaining stock. Since I have yet to find a suitable replacement cable, I went back to the drawing board and created a new design. The new design uses a circuit inspired by one that I originally saw on the 8-Bit Lab Rat website and uses a pair of CD4052's that are socketed for easy replacement. I decided to forego the wired cable in favor of a female DB15 jack so you will need an extension cable to connect the unit to the 5200. Also, I always wanted to add the option of paddle controllers for use with the original design and never got around to it... so I added a paddle mode with the new design that is selected via the switch on the front of the unit near the DB9 jack. The interface uses the first player paddle from a set of standard 2600 paddles. Unfortunately, due to the wiring of the potentiometer within the 2600 paddles the rotation is opposite to what one would expect during game-play (CCW registers Right and CW Left). This is easily remedied by moving one wire within the first player paddle controller. Alternatively, a switch can be added to switch the paddle controller from 2600 to 5200 mode. I have a a box full of paddle controllers and may offer some that are modded if anyone has the need. I'm asking $70 shipped within the continental US... this does not include an extension cable. You will have to purchase one for yourself if you do not already have one. I recommend best electronics or ebay to purchase one. If you go with ebay these are reasonable quality and inexpensive: goo.gl/8u4RUk
  18. Looks like I will have a small run of them printed... I've had a number of people express interest...
  19. Since grips03 declared this project dead, I decided to take a crack at it. Unfortunately, I failed with my first attempt as well... However, I have now successfully designed a drop in PCB for the Super Famicom NTT Data controller and had some printed for anyone who's interested. They fit great and function flawlessly. I also have a handful of finished controllers with the PCB's already installed. - PCB with diodes soldered -- $100 - Complete controller with brand new cable (approx. 7 ft.) -- $165 These prices do not include shipping... PM me if interested. Also, I've already gone ahead and designed a PCB for the Famicom Network controller and will have some printed if there's sufficient interest to cover costs...
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