SlowCoder

Need to reconsider your priorities.

I think it's just that his camera's white balance is a little off. Look at the wood desk/table: It has a distinctive greenish caste. The fire button, while orange, still seems to have a very slight greenish tint to it (maybe that's just me). Anyway, a bias to green would seem to turn a light orange to yellow, hence the yellowish look of the paint on the stick. -tet [edit] Looking at it again, it could be a blueish caste. [/edit] Probably. That room is not very brightly lit, and I'm too lazy to pull out the camera for things like this. All of these pics were taken with my phone using its led flash, which is probably what puts the color off. If you guys desire better images I can oblige.

It's a broblem somewhere on the mainboard. I've ruled out everything on the switch board, including regulator and RF modulator.

Was the overlying sticker silver(foil) or white like the sticker underneath? Interesting, the interest in a service tag. I'm pretty sure it was foil. It got caught on the towel I was drying with and got pulled part way off, and since it was partly covering the serial, I finished removing it. Is it bad that I removed it?

Yes there was a service sticker over the white sticker. I tried to keep it dry while cleaning the bottom but failed. I removed the sticker after it got wet to get to the serial number. Before that, you are correct, it did look better. No the joysticks do not look repainted. The condition of the bezel on the h6 is also in excellent shape, save a few small scratches. This brings me back to the possibility that this unit might have been a shelf model at one time. Too bad it's not working.

I came across another interesting find with this system ... its joysticks. Note the tabs on the bottom of the rubber handle, rather than the round lip that most joysticks seem to have. Check the completely different internal assembly, using springs for all 4 directions. And the fact that the PCB has the Atari logo on it. These controllers feel totally different than the normal ones. Much more cushy. Based on the PCB logo I'm pretty sure these true Atari, maybe an early model?

I did some intensive troubleshooting last night. I swapped the switch board with another one and the problem persists. So it's not the regulator or RF. I also swapped the chips from another working H6, and ... nothing ... at all ... chips don't work in this system. Neither do this system's chips work in the other H6 ... at all. I swapped back, and the other working H6 is still working, and this one returned to it's old antics. I believe this brings it down to an issue with the mainboard.

When was the last time this list was updated? I'd like to toss in a few recommendations, if I may. - add the date the serial was added to the list. This will help track updates - when was console acquired? Helps to establish ownership timelines - what is its functional status? Not sure why this thread isn't stickied. Based on its content I don't think it should be allowed to get lost in the thread shuffle.

Based on the conversation, I'm considering dumping the idea. If it has a chance of frying my Atari, that's not where I want to go. However, please feel free to continue your conversation, as it is very interesting and I'm learning a bit.

I know it's a Heavy. The pics were too fuzzy to tell at the time. And I was also aware that it might not be functional, as that was how it was described. It accompanied another working Light 6 that does work. I would just like to know if I can revive it, and what the most likely cuplrits might be. Both of the units I received were filthy. Once I cleaned them up, though, they are both in the best cosmetic shape of each of their models I have come across yet.

I unexpectedly received this console yesterday (I was expecting a light 6). I suspect it was a shelf model, as it had dynamo stickers all over it labelling the switches and "Turn off when not in use". Based on what I've read on here, it may be significant that it doesn't have a channel switch or access hole. Thoughts/input? Also, it will work for about a minute, then will freeze/power off. Will not power back on for a few minutes, which leads me to think something is warming up. Tried different games and power supplies. I'm thinking this might be a problem with the regulator?

Well then, you haven't been lucky enough to clean some of the one's I've had to clean. A shower and a dab of soap doesn't get it all out. But I guess if it's just a little dusty, then maybe a light shower will be enough.

Ditto. It only takes a couple of minutes to wash by hand.

I have a Vader on the way, which I find cool. And I think I got it for a reasonable price. Also believe it to be single owner, too. I'll take a look at the color differences and consider the color mod on my other systems.

Ok. I will happily stand corrected on this issue. And I really do appreciate everyone's input. I am collecting to collect. The interest in the monetary value is passing only. It's like knowing how much your ferraris are worth. However, if I am to be able to continue to collect, I must somehow have an influx of money. Wife isn't going to be happy if I keep taking money from the coffer.

Cool! Guess it was just my imagination. Yeah, I know how to properly insert a chip the correct way. Maybe there was corrosion on the contacts that finally rubbed off when I last swapped. Thanks for the clarification guys. As always, great help!

Never tried it on labels, but I've used dry erase markers to remove permanent marker from plastic. Just write over the permanent with the dry erase then immediately wipe off. Multiple repeats may be required.

So, you think this WHOLE idea is not a good idea, or just the way we're going about it?

Then, good sir, you may consider me to be one of those "delusional ePay chumps", as I paid way more than what you quoted for my first system. I will not divulge how much I paid, as it is actually embarrassing. Though my first system included 40 or so games. I have learned much since, and I watch listings for what I consider good deals. Please lets both understand that we all come from different experiences. It looks like you've been an AA member for some time, whereas I'm new. You've been collecting for a long time, whereas I'm new. Not a "chump", and not dumb. Just new. My first thought when I read that word in your post was how disrespectful and closed minded it is. But I'm willing to forgive. Maybe it's just my local area. I look on CraigsList, and there are rarely listings in my area. The listings I do find are either not answered when I contact the seller, or they ask at least as much money as I've seen on eBay. I go to our local flea market and the sellers, again, ask as much as eBay, and the quality of the equipment is often such that I wouldn't want to touch it with a 10 foot pole. I've been to a number of yard sales ... None of them have Ataris. I admit I have not seriously begged for stuff from the locals here (AtariAge) as yet, and perhaps I'll start. This is a listing I won a while ago: http://cgi.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBDIX:IT As you see, it included 2 consoles, and a series of games. When I got the box, the consoles were very dirty. After being cleaned, one of them worked great. The other was still nonfunctional. I sold the working one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MESOX:IT Note that I eBayed it for the price I did because of the time I had put into cleaning it up. Based on the feedback I got from the buyer, it was a nostalgia purchase, and he was very happy with it, having spent what he had. Later I was able to get the other console working perfectly, and it is now in my collection. I had recouped my money, plus some, and added games and a console to my collection. Do you consider any part of my purchase and sale a problem? Based on my experiences with eBay, flea market and CraigsList, I consider those prices to be the status quo, whereas prices here on AtariAge to be "club member discount prices", rather than "AtariAge has the right prices, and all the others are just plain overpriced".

Ok, so you're telling, in your opinion, that each individual console is worth more than selling the lot? Please forgive me (and I'm not trying to justify my thinking), but it seems to me that a new collector would be willing to pay more for a collection of guaranteed clean and functional systems to start out with, than to gamble their money buying the individual pieces, having to clean, then possibly spend even more money to repair them. I am a new collector myself. Having fun at it, too. I am enjoying the trials of getting equipment, cleaning and repairing it, as I get to learn more, and I am able to take pride in my accomplishments. But I can definitely see how others who perhaps don't have the desire to go through all that might be enticed.

While working on Ataris, I found what appears to be that you can't mix chips across different version Ataris. For instance, I was troubleshooting a light 6. I only had a 4 switch available. I knew the video chip was the only one that was bad, based on previous troubleshooting. I attempted swapping the video chip from the 4 switcher, and it failed to work. Only after I swapped out all 3 chips from the 4 switcher to the light 6 did the light 6 finally work. Based on my findings, it seems that mixing chips across architectures doesn't work. You must match the chips properly. Can anyone verify my findings?

I have 1 each Heavy 6, Light 6, 4 switch Woody, all cleaned inside and out, and fully functional. Each has its own 2 original joysticks and paddle sets, and power adapters. I am also planning to add a Vader, Jr., and a Jr. Rev A to the collection. Individually they're each worth between $30-$50. But I'd like to know what they'd be worth all together? Would the sum be worth more than its parts? Before you go tossing me offers, I'm not selling. I'm just curious about the current value.

Are you certain that's not output? Yes,I'm sure. The system is capable of both input an output using the same composite port. There is an in/out switch. I had examined just attempting to mount the DVD mainboard inside the Atari, and on the back of the LCD. This would definitely make this project easier, but there's not enough room inside the atari, and mounting on the back of the LCD makes it too bulky and it wouldn't tilt the way I'd like.

Almost no LEDs are made explicitly for 12v, those that are, have built in resistors. You have to calculate the voltage drop with a current limiting resistor based on voltage drop, and supply voltage. http://www.hebeiltd....stor.calculator I don't know what type of LEDs are available for me, as I haven't visited Radio Shack , so I don't know if this scenario is right ... Please feel very free to provide correction and explanation so I can learn here. I believe the Atari would supply 11ish volts to pin 1 on the 4049. If I wanted to supply 5v to an LED, I'd need something close to a 500ohm resistor? On the calculator from the page you posted, I put 10 milliamps as desired current. Don't know if that's even close to what I would actually want.

If you're willing to wait a little (you might have to bid a few times), you will be able to pull up an Atari with games for that amount also. And as long as it's guaranteed to work, it doesn't need to be in sparkly condition from the seller, especially if you're willing to elbow grease it a little. Ataris clean up really nice if you're willing to put the time in them.