SlowCoder
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Posts posted by SlowCoder
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Ok. I will happily stand corrected on this issue. And I really do appreciate everyone's input.
I am collecting to collect. The interest in the monetary value is passing only. It's like knowing how much your ferraris are worth. However, if I am to be able to continue to collect, I must somehow have an influx of money. Wife isn't going to be happy if I keep taking money from the coffer.
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Cool! Guess it was just my imagination. Yeah, I know how to properly insert a chip the correct way. Maybe there was corrosion on the contacts that finally rubbed off when I last swapped.
Thanks for the clarification guys. As always, great help!
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Never tried it on labels, but I've used dry erase markers to remove permanent marker from plastic. Just write over the permanent with the dry erase then immediately wipe off. Multiple repeats may be required.
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I don't think this is a good idea.
From a datasheet I found the CD4050 can sink around 4.6 ma but only source 1.1 ma. Neither is really adequate for driving LEDs. Also, the CD4050 is only present in some 2600 models. On other models the joystick is connected directly to the RIOT, and the button is connected directly to the TIA. I don't know how much the RIOT or TIA can sink but I'd be surprised if it's enough to drive LEDs. You really don't want to damage the CD4050, RIOT or TIA in the 2600 by directly connecting LEDs and resistors.
Many of the 74-series ICs can sink more than enough, some up to 30 ma depending on the chip. Some may be fine for driving LEDs, such as the 7407. Even though this chip is open-drain it can still be used in the active low configuration you described.
EDIT: The RIOT can sink 1.6 ma and source 100 µa - way too little for LEDs.
So, you think this WHOLE idea is not a good idea, or just the way we're going about it?
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Guaranteed clean and functional are the prices I quoted 'round these parts (dedicated forum made up mostly of people with a clue and/or are more resourceful than the average dolt).
The people you described toward the end of your thinking are delusional "ePay chumps" trying to get a bargain, yet overpaid for crap they (more than likely) need to repair themselves. IF they even know how. And if they knew how, they wouldn't have overpaid in the first place. A conundrum of sorts, you see? End of line.
Then, good sir, you may consider me to be one of those "delusional ePay chumps", as I paid way more than what you quoted for my first system. I will not divulge how much I paid, as it is actually embarrassing. Though my first system included 40 or so games. I have learned much since, and I watch listings for what I consider good deals.
Please lets both understand that we all come from different experiences. It looks like you've been an AA member for some time, whereas I'm new. You've been collecting for a long time, whereas I'm new. Not a "chump", and not dumb. Just new. My first thought when I read that word in your post was how disrespectful and closed minded it is. But I'm willing to forgive.
Maybe it's just my local area. I look on CraigsList, and there are rarely listings in my area. The listings I do find are either not answered when I contact the seller, or they ask at least as much money as I've seen on eBay. I go to our local flea market and the sellers, again, ask as much as eBay, and the quality of the equipment is often such that I wouldn't want to touch it with a 10 foot pole. I've been to a number of yard sales ... None of them have Ataris.
I admit I have not seriously begged for stuff from the locals here (AtariAge) as yet, and perhaps I'll start.
This is a listing I won a while ago: http://cgi.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBDIX:IT
As you see, it included 2 consoles, and a series of games. When I got the box, the consoles were very dirty. After being cleaned, one of them worked great. The other was still nonfunctional.
I sold the working one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MESOX:IT
Note that I eBayed it for the price I did because of the time I had put into cleaning it up.
Based on the feedback I got from the buyer, it was a nostalgia purchase, and he was very happy with it, having spent what he had.
Later I was able to get the other console working perfectly, and it is now in my collection.
I had recouped my money, plus some, and added games and a console to my collection.
Do you consider any part of my purchase and sale a problem?
Based on my experiences with eBay, flea market and CraigsList, I consider those prices to be the status quo, whereas prices here on AtariAge to be "club member discount prices", rather than "AtariAge has the right prices, and all the others are just plain overpriced".
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You already answered your own question. The parts ARE always worth more than the sum. Hasn't changed since auto parts vs. whole cars to computer parts vs. whole systems.
Ok, so you're telling, in your opinion, that each individual console is worth more than selling the lot?
Please forgive me (and I'm not trying to justify my thinking), but it seems to me that a new collector would be willing to pay more for a collection of guaranteed clean and functional systems to start out with, than to gamble their money buying the individual pieces, having to clean, then possibly spend even more money to repair them.
I am a new collector myself. Having fun at it, too. I am enjoying the trials of getting equipment, cleaning and repairing it, as I get to learn more, and I am able to take pride in my accomplishments. But I can definitely see how others who perhaps don't have the desire to go through all that might be enticed.
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While working on Ataris, I found what appears to be that you can't mix chips across different version Ataris. For instance, I was troubleshooting a light 6. I only had a 4 switch available. I knew the video chip was the only one that was bad, based on previous troubleshooting. I attempted swapping the video chip from the 4 switcher, and it failed to work. Only after I swapped out all 3 chips from the 4 switcher to the light 6 did the light 6 finally work.
Based on my findings, it seems that mixing chips across architectures doesn't work. You must match the chips properly. Can anyone verify my findings?
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I have 1 each Heavy 6, Light 6, 4 switch Woody, all cleaned inside and out, and fully functional. Each has its own 2 original joysticks and paddle sets, and power adapters. I am also planning to add a Vader, Jr., and a Jr. Rev A to the collection.
Individually they're each worth between $30-$50. But I'd like to know what they'd be worth all together? Would the sum be worth more than its parts?
Before you go tossing me offers, I'm not selling. I'm just curious about the current value.
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Are you certain that's not output?Interesting question. There is composite input to the player itself, but not directly to the display.Yes,I'm sure. The system is capable of both input an output using the same composite port. There is an in/out switch.
I had examined just attempting to mount the DVD mainboard inside the Atari, and on the back of the LCD. This would definitely make this project easier, but there's not enough room inside the atari, and mounting on the back of the LCD makes it too bulky and it wouldn't tilt the way I'd like.
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Most of the LEDs I've seen are 12V. I'm assuming that's a max, and not a required voltage, and these LEDs should light at 5V? Can you explain how I need to calculate the required resistance values to make everything work as needed?Almost no LEDs are made explicitly for 12v, those that are, have built in resistors. You have to calculate the voltage drop with a current limiting resistor based on voltage drop, and supply voltage.
I don't know what type of LEDs are available for me, as I haven't visited Radio Shack
, so I don't know if this scenario is right ... Please feel very free to provide correction and explanation so I can learn here.I believe the Atari would supply 11ish volts to pin 1 on the 4049. If I wanted to supply 5v to an LED, I'd need something close to a 500ohm resistor?
On the calculator from the page you posted, I put 10 milliamps as desired current. Don't know if that's even close to what I would actually want.
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If you're willing to wait a little (you might have to bid a few times), you will be able to pull up an Atari with games for that amount also. And as long as it's guaranteed to work, it doesn't need to be in sparkly condition from the seller, especially if you're willing to elbow grease it a little. Ataris clean up really nice if you're willing to put the time in them.
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First of all, IIRC the four directional lines and the fire line are all low-active - meaning to enable a direction (or fire) the joystick connects the appropriate pin to ground. If you just hooked up LEDs to the lines, they'd be all lit up with no joystick input, then whichever direction (or fire) you pushed would extinguish the LED.
I think it's logical to me. Let me see if I have this straight ... rather than turning ON a signal when fire or joystick is moved, it's actually grounding out the signal. So my assumption that pressing fire on the joystick would activate a signal is opposite of what's actually happening? If that's the case, I understand the logic of using the inverter.
Therefore, what you'd need is an inverter. I never got into building circuits with logic chips, so I don't know exactly what's available, but I think what you'd need is two hex inverter chips; one for each stick. Each chip has six individual inverters: One input pin and one output pin for each inverter. The output of an inverter is the opposite of what's on its input; if the input is at 5V, the output is at 0V and vice-versa. So just tap the four directional and fire lines off a joystick connector into five of the inverters on a chip. Then you'd just connect the outputs to the LEDs. You'd need limiting resistors for each LED, of course. Or you could just have all the LEDs share one resistor off system ground, but when more than one LED was lit at one time you might notice dimming. Anyway, when any direction or fire is pressed, the inverter sends the respective LED high, lighting it up.
Ok. Done some research ... Please take a look at this page: http://www.kpsec.fre...s/cmos.htm#4049
It looks easy to build a circuit using this chip. I would guess that pin 1 needs to be connected to a power voltage that I want to send to the LED, i.e. 5V, perse? Would I use a resistor to bring the voltage down to 5V from 9V?
At the top of this same page, it mentions that line noise is an issue, so all of the unsed input pins need to be connected to power. Is this necessary?
Most of the LEDs I've seen are 12V. I'm assuming that's a max, and not a required voltage, and these LEDs should light at 5V? Can you explain how I need to calculate the required resistance values to make everything work as needed?
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I took apart the DVD player, and have removed the LCD screen from the rest of the chassis. It has a simple swivel mechanism, so I think I'll just be able to drill a simple hole in the top of my test Atari and mount it in there without much difficulty, making for a pretty cool portable console!
Cracking open the LCD compartment, found a couple of stickers on the back of the actual LCD component, but I can't tell which might be the model.
There are 3 bundles of wires on the LCD that I disconnected from mainboard. Here are the markings for the pins on each bundle:
Bundle 1 (Assuming this is Audio)
1: SC
2: GND
3: TFT_CVBS
4: GND
5: GND
6: GND
7: ROUT-
8: ROUT+
9: LOUT-
10: LOUT+
Bundle 2
1: INT/EXT
2: PAL/NTSC
3: -13V
4: 3V3
5: 5V
6: 7V5
7: 17V
8: GND
9: GND
10: GND
Bundle 3:
1: 9V
2: 9V
3: GND
4: ON/OFF
5: GND
6: GND
I realize I'll probably need to convert my Atari to Composite A/V.
The power adapter for the DVD is 9.5V, 3A. Should that be enough to power both the Atari and the LCD?
Techie guys, how might I wire this to my Atari?
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Haha! That was the only one we found that my wife would allow in the living room, and that would accommodate the equipment. I will probably eventually install cable runners to clean it up a bit.
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My collection is a mix of retro, and not so retro stuff. I don't have a lot of room like some of you apparently do, so my stuff is compact, original boxes tossed long ago. Forgive me.
Pics were taken with my phone, and I didn't do anything with the lighting, and I didn't do a lot of cleanup ... but you'll get the jist. Look and be amazed ... or don't. 
The main entertainment shelf. I keep my equipment covered by towels. It contains all of the operational consoles we actively play.
Shelf 1: the PS3 and the primary controller basket.
Shelf 2: PS2, NES and Wii. NES and WII games. I got the PS2 and Wii just because I wanted them. I got the NES because I never had one, but had always drooled over my friend's as a kid and I wanted to be able to play through the Mario series.
Shelf 3: Atari shelf with Atari 2600 and games. Not all of the games shown, as they are stored in the TeleGames cabinet. I had a Sears TeleGames Atari as a kid. Haven't located one like it within a price I can afford. So I'm stuck with this Light 6 for the meantime.
PS1, PS2 and PS3 games, stored in the entertainment cabinet. Purchased over time to play. Have played through many, lost interest in some. But can't bring myself to get rid of any.
My PSP and it's games. Also some more PS2 games I found in the back of the cabinet. Not old, but it is part of my "collection". My son and I pooled our Christmas money together to get the PSP. We play it quite often. The case in the right picture was customized by my son a couple years ago. I'm proud of it.
Sega Game Gear setup. I bought it new, and wasted lots of money on its peripherals. But it was worth it, and lots of fun.
Not shown are my Atari 2600 4 Switch and Heavy Six, another Game Gear, as well as a Coleco Adam that I used as a kid, and which disappeared to my grandparent's attic for 20 years. I wonder if the Adam ever work again. The tapes were destroyed by the heat, and the paddle/keypad controllers have gone missing. I suspect it's toast.
Topping that off, and not counting the slew of Windows based computer games I have, I also have about 20GB of old school DOS based games. Yeah ... awesome stuff!
So, there you go ... my collection.
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are controller extension cords good or bad? I heard a console modder say they are bad because they cause the controller to draw more power from the controller port than normal. (Due to the extra cord length?) I've never been able to confirm of deny this statement. I do know that I used controller extensions on my Dreamcast and sure enough, the port where I used the extensions the most stopped working.
Take a look at this thread by me regarding this same subject. There wasn't anything in it about being bad for your Atari. In fact, it's good because of the fact that you're not continually plugging/unplugging the controllers directly in the Atari port.
http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/166692-extension-cables-for-atari-joysticks/
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Krylon Fusion does not work with carts. The paint never adheres and the carts are perpetually tacky. Ironically a 99 cent WalMart standard rattle can does better, which even that does not work, but at least it works *better*.
Just a thought, I don't paint my carts ...
But what if you sanded the cart with a rough sandpaper to give the paint something to adhere to?
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as someone who used to have stacks of 2600s taller than he is all locally bought for a song, i can tell you, the vader is the dog-ass most common 2600 system out there.
Uh ... COUGH COUGH!!! I live in Tallahassee, dude! I'll come pick one of those babies up from you right now! Or you can just drop one in the mail and I'll pay shipping!
Purdy please??? -
I removed a power connection from a "nonworking" 2600 board to fix one that worked, but had a bad connector. Later I went back to the one I thought was nonworking and did the same to it from a board I KNEW was nonworking. Now I'm considering trying to convert that one to composite video, as I believe it is the RF modulator that doesn't work. Guess what? It sure would be nice if I had a power connector for it!
Point being I played musical connectors and did some unneeded soldering time moving connectors around. I would like to know if there is a place I can purchase new ones so I don't do all the extra work again.
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As I'm working on my Atari's I'm noticing how nice it would be to have some solder wick!
All you guys who work on the boards, I have seen both 1.5mm and 3mm wicks. In your opinion, what do you think the best would be?
I've also noticed that some ads mention rosin, which I know helps with the wicking action. What's your opinion on that?
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Damnit! Fooled me!
I didn't come into this thread to talk about Atari!
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I can understand the Heavy 6 being more valuable than most of the rest due to their more limited availability. But when I'm looking around on eBay, I see only a few Vaders, and the sellers are asking more than other consoles. Is it just me, or is there some reason yet unknown to me for this?
And what the heck is it with some of these people claiming Woodys as Vaders? I'd say about half of the ones labelled Vader are just 4 switch Woodys. Ugh!
And on the same subject, but not ...
Check this ebay list ... eBay Auction -- Item Number: 320575090969
Did your eyes bug out when you saw it? Yeah, I thought so. Is that a runaway auction, where the bidders just couldn't be one-upped? The console in that pic was in worse shape than mine, and I got mine cheapo. And I don't think any of the games are rare. Correct me if I'm off on this, but shouldn't something like that not go for more than maybe $100?
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Duh! It would come out all clean and spring fresh!
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does it have a composite video input?
Interesting question. There is composite input to the player itself, but not directly to the display.
AND ... the player uses 9.5v DC, closely compatible with Atari ... Hummm!
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Vaders rarer?
in Atari 2600
Posted
I have a Vader on the way, which I find cool. And I think I got it for a reasonable price. Also believe it to be single owner, too.
I'll take a look at the color differences and consider the color mod on my other systems.