SlowCoder

Hi Matrix! I'm also relatively new here, and have found this forum an EXCELLENT source for information. You can get great deals on equipment because it's in "bad cosmetic shape", but with all the purchases where the machine was in "bad cosmetic shape", a good cleaning inside and out, has done great deals to bring out the real shine in the consoles! Other than very minor surface scrapes and some missing paint around the console switches, they have all been cosmetically beautiful! I have all the woody models now, all beautiful and functioning. Also, I'm learning that you can find really good deals in nonworking models. The seller hasn't done anything to fix them. And all I've had to do it open 'em up, swap a couple chips, and they're working again! I've procured 5 consoles already, 4 of which were "nonworking" and filthy. All but one are working now. I would gander that the 4-switch woody and the Vader models are the same internally. I don't have a Vader yet, but the chassis looks the same to me.

Maybe not feasible, but I'm interested in your opinion. My son (8 years old) forgets to turn off the game systems periodically. There are no lights, so without physically checking the power switch there's no way to determine if the Atari is off. I'm sure it's easy enough to connect a LED to the power switch and ground, therefore having a power light. I'd like to take this a step further though ... My idea is this: A series of 6 lights in a cross pattern like F U L P R D F=fire button P=power (mapped to power switch) U,L,R,D = joystick directionality Would it be easy enough to simply solder these LEDs to their respective joystick pins and ground? What considerations would I need to make for electrical requirement? If it is feasible, I think it would be a really neat mod, with visual interraction between the console and the player.

What shall we do with you, AJ? So often coming out with the answers! Thank you!

But if it were only a bad TIA, wouldn't the RF modulator still generate a carrier? At least produce some change on the screen between power-off and power-on? That was my thought too. I had already tried a different series of chips on it without success. For the time being, however, I have pulled the chips from this board and placed them in another Atari that was down. That atari now works, so it definitely wasn't the chips. One day I might attempt revival of this board and replace the RF modulator.

Here's an image of what I see ...

Ok, I bought a voltage regulator, but I don't think I needed it. I tested the current one, and it does get warm when on for a while. Also, using a voltmeter, I determined it is properly dropping voltage from the 12v supplied to 5v. Next step?

As stated before, I'm not an electronics expert, but I have a light-sixer with that appears to be some sort of fix or mod. I'm guessing it's a mod because I see the same thing on both controller connections. It looks like someone applied a diode to pin 5 (or it might be pin 9). Anyone know what this might be?

I already verified the power switch is working properly, as power is flowing through it. Where is the voltage regulator? Never mind ... I found the voltage regulator. I'll check that out tonight. I've got another board I can swap with if that's the case. I'm assuming the white paste under it is heat sink paste? If so, I've got more I can apply.

Pure static. No change in picture on TV when console is turned on. This is not a power supply issue, as I'm using known good supplies. Power is getting at least through the power switch.

When powered on, shows static. Have checked ... channel switch swapped coax cable Verified good power supply Checked power switch using voltmeter. Adjusted color POT. I'm not sure what I should look for as far as corrosion on the silver box on lower right. I don't see anything outstanding such as leakage or discoloration other then a little rust. I see what appears to be a POT in the silver box, but I don't know what it does. Can someone explain? What else can I check?

* Coughs on his own saliva while reading ... * I suppose you can use the vinegar/water solution, but a hose or a hair drier??? I don't see what possible benefit exposing your board to a hose would be. You could potentially introduce water in places you don't want to introduce water. And a hair drier is a prime source of static that could fry the electronics on your Atari. My method is to use alcohol and Q-tips. Gently rub the board on the dirty spots with the alcohol dipped Q-tips, not applying much pressure at all. Work around the components, disturbing them as little as possible. Alcohol is great at removing the dirt, liquid residue, and the extra solder resin that I found on my board. Do all of this on some sort of antistatic mat/surface. The Atari board is pretty resilient, but one of the things any electronics are prone to is static. Applying any cleaning chemicals, including alcohol or the vinegar solution, containing water, is cause to wait a while before plugging the Atari in. If using alcohol, I'd wait at least an hour before turning it on. If using the vinegar solution, I'd advise waiting even longer (at least a day?), as the water will take time to evaporate. Since you don't specify what type of corrosion you're looking at, I'm going to also add that some of the metal surfaces may appear somewhat rusted. Not to worry. Just wash them off best as you can. They won't affect the Atari's functionality. If you wanted, I guess you could apply some sort of anti-rust stuff to keep them from rusting any further.

Yes, my experience also confirms this. I have models by a couple of companies, and both are prone to interference. There's just a whole lot more wireless signals being sprayed about now than back in 1980. I've read where other people don't have any problems, so I guess it would depend on where you are actually playing (i.e., in a main living room as opposed to a somewhat shielded basement). What a way to dampen my day! I am unhappy with the probability of interference, as I depend on wireless networking throughout my home. This pretty much brings me back to extension cables. Bummer!

Then you must hit your reset all too often My console is about 6 feet to the right of my TV, and this is where it must remain ... the wife ... it is not conducive to play from that location. Extension cables would work, but my PS2 has ended up on the floor a number of times as my children trip over the wires.

I have some games with excellent labels, but the games themselves don't work. As I come across games that do work, but have bad labels, I would like to be able to transfer the boards. Is there an easy, nondamaging, way to remove labels to get access to the screws?

The old Atari wireless controllers. Are they worth it? Is the response time/lag ok? Are they pretty stout?

Basically its a PCB with a microcontroller connected to an RF data packet handling chip. A software communication "stack" is provided to interface them together. You'd need two to of them to complete your project. You'd also need to write your embedded application code on the microcontroller. Not sure if you were trying to be funny or not, but I actually DO understand that!

Based on the age of the foam and the increased likelyhood its deteriorated and could fall apart, is there a good reason to leave the old foam in the carts, or go ahead and remove them?

Yeah, you guys are awesome. I don't current have an extra Atari to pull chips on yet, but as soon as I do I'll give it a shot.

I ended up using a green Scotch scouring pad and it worked great.

I thought about using a fine sandpaper. If I did, I'm sure it would shine up nice. But what to do to keep the oxidation of the newly exposed metal down? Other options?

Are you speaking of a particular chip? Which one would that be?

Huh, not sure what the deal is, but I clicked the Edit button to update the initial post here, and when I tried to save, it told me I don't have permission to edit my own topic. Whatever ... Anyway, I was trying to update it with more stuff I've tried ... I've cleaned the contacts multiple times, both with alcohol and sand paper. Verified the channel switch is on channel 3, same as my TV. As I see the video, this can't be the problem ... Reseated the 3 mainboard chips. Tried a different power supply. The game loads, you can see animations, and it responds to game select and game reset switches, but doesn't appear to respond to joystick commands. I doubt this could be a NTSC/PAL issue, as the game itself appears corrupted, not the video, except for the scrolling.

Ok guys and gals ... I just got my hands on another 2600 4-switch. It's cleaned up, and when I turn it on with a known good game, it slowly scrolls vertically. I can see the game, but it appears corrupted and is unplayable. I've cleaned the contacts multiple times, and verified the channel switch is on channel 3, same as my TV. Ideas?

I think converting the data to PS2 format (as an intermediate stage) isn't necessary when RF microcontroller boards like the ez430 RF device from Farnell (electronic parts supplier based in the UK) are available :- http://uk.farnell.com/texas-instruments/ez430-rf2500t/board-target-wireless-ez430-rf2500/dp/1740341 You'll need to get to grips with MSP430 assembler or "C". This one went a little over my head. I understand technology, as I have been in IT for a few years, but I've not done much at the electronics level. I see this MSP430 is some sort of system for developing wireless technology, which appears at first to be a step in the right direction. But as I *attempt* to read the Development Tool User Guide (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Ffocus.ti.com%2Flit%2Fug%2Fslau227e%2Fslau227e.pdf&ei=nxNWTNLHO8OB8gbEhtGjBA&usg=AFQjCNFqplgTZCQDmuXR7ziyx3YPYNnxHg), it mostly flies right over my head. Can you provide, in layman please, how this will help me?

Sorry, I don't think that's the same idea. What I'm trying to do is incorporate the wireless aspect of my React controllers into an Atari joystick. Not make my PS2 controllers work with my Atari. However, I was reading around, and have already run into a snafu. It appears that the PS1/2 uses intelligent signals with their controllers, whereas I'm sure the Atari is not as smart. I don't know if there's a workaround for this? Here is the information I have located on this: http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/PS2