Jump to content
Have You Played Atari Today?
2600|5200|7800|Lynx|Jaguar|Forums|Store  

SlowCoder

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    3,670

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Posts posted by SlowCoder

  1. Posted

    I have some games with excellent labels, but the games themselves don't work. As I come across games that do work, but have bad labels, I would like to be able to transfer the boards.

     

    Is there an easy, nondamaging, way to remove labels to get access to the screws?

  3. Posted

    Can you provide, in layman please, how this will help me?

     

    Basically its a PCB with a microcontroller connected to an RF data packet handling chip. A software communication "stack" is provided to interface them together. You'd need two to of them to complete your project. You'd also need to write your embedded application code on the microcontroller.

     

    Not sure if you were trying to be funny or not, but I actually DO understand that! :)

  8. Posted

    Try a different joystick. If it does the same thing, it is probably one of two things.

    1.Broken port

    2.Bad chip

     

    I would think it is a bad chip as a bad port would not be giving you the scrolling issue on the screen.

    Are you speaking of a particular chip? Which one would that be?

  9. Posted

    Huh, not sure what the deal is, but I clicked the Edit button to update the initial post here, and when I tried to save, it told me I don't have permission to edit my own topic. Whatever ...

     

    Anyway, I was trying to update it with more stuff I've tried ...

     

    I've cleaned the contacts multiple times, both with alcohol and sand paper.

    Verified the channel switch is on channel 3, same as my TV. As I see the video, this can't be the problem ...

    Reseated the 3 mainboard chips.

    Tried a different power supply.

     

    The game loads, you can see animations, and it responds to game select and game reset switches, but doesn't appear to respond to joystick commands.

     

    I doubt this could be a NTSC/PAL issue, as the game itself appears corrupted, not the video, except for the scrolling.

  10. Posted

    Ok guys and gals ...

     

    I just got my hands on another 2600 4-switch. It's cleaned up, and when I turn it on with a known good game, it slowly scrolls vertically. I can see the game, but it appears corrupted and is unplayable.

     

    I've cleaned the contacts multiple times, and verified the channel switch is on channel 3, same as my TV.

     

    Ideas?

  11. Posted

    However, I was reading around, and have already run into a snafu. It appears that the PS1/2 uses intelligent signals with their controllers, whereas I'm sure the Atari is not as smart. I don't know if there's a workaround for this? Here is the information I have located on this: http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/PS2

     

    I think converting the data to PS2 format (as an intermediate stage) isn't necessary when RF microcontroller boards like the ez430 RF device from Farnell (electronic parts supplier based in the UK) are available :-

     

    http://uk.farnell.com/texas-instruments/ez430-rf2500t/board-target-wireless-ez430-rf2500/dp/1740341

     

    You'll need to get to grips with MSP430 assembler or "C".

    This one went a little over my head. I understand technology, as I have been in IT for a few years, but I've not done much at the electronics level. I see this MSP430 is some sort of system for developing wireless technology, which appears at first to be a step in the right direction. But as I *attempt* to read the Development Tool User Guide (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Ffocus.ti.com%2Flit%2Fug%2Fslau227e%2Fslau227e.pdf&ei=nxNWTNLHO8OB8gbEhtGjBA&usg=AFQjCNFqplgTZCQDmuXR7ziyx3YPYNnxHg), it mostly flies right over my head.

     

    Can you provide, in layman please, how this will help me?

  12. Posted

    Sorry, I don't think that's the same idea. What I'm trying to do is incorporate the wireless aspect of my React controllers into an Atari joystick. Not make my PS2 controllers work with my Atari.

     

    However, I was reading around, and have already run into a snafu. It appears that the PS1/2 uses intelligent signals with their controllers, whereas I'm sure the Atari is not as smart. I don't know if there's a workaround for this? Here is the information I have located on this: http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/PS2

  13. Posted

    Well, you boys just jumped right off target, didn't 'ya? That's fine with me, as it brings up another thought ...

     

    I have this wireless React controller for my PS2. It's not the best controller. but I wonder how difficult it would be to mate it's wireless components into an Atari Joystick, including some sort of battery compartment to operate it. Then the receiver that normally plugs into my PS2 could perhaps be mated to the Atari controller ports? But as this is definitely not the same as "what are the best extension cables" topic, I think I'll start a new thread. :)

     

    http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/166948-idea-for-building-wireless-atari-controllers/

  14. Posted

    I'm not an electronics expert, though I do understand some aspects, and I know how to use a soldering iron.

     

    I have a React wireless PS2 controller set (2 controllers, one receiver for both). The controllers operate on 2 AA batteries. Physically, I'm guessing the receiver could be refitted with serial-style connectors to plug into the Atari.

     

    My questions:

    Is the controller voltage for the PS2 different than that of the Atari?

    Would the Atari's power be able to drive the wireless receiver?

    What would be the best way to mod the Atari controller to accept the wireless board and batteries?

     

    I'd be willing to experiment, with the hardware if you guys could give me some pointers on where to begin. Ideas are definitely welcome.

     

    I suppose I'd start by determining the pinout of the Atari controller ports, and the PS2 controller ports, and build a serial connection off that pinout. Anyone here able to provide that information?

  19. Posted · Edited by SlowCoder

    The primary reason I desire a testcart is because I'm considering a composite mod, and I'd want to be able to adjust my color.

     

    And at this point, I might as well ask what type of video quality improvement is there after this upgrade?

  21. Posted

    Back in the middle ages (30 years ago), my TV was much closer to the floor, and the entire screen could be seen when I was 3 feet away, with the Atari just out front, and my joysticks tethered on 4ft of cable.

     

    Zoom forward 30 years and now my TV's bigger, and much higher. I'm no longer dumb enough to let the Atari sit on the floor. But I am now basically forced to stand in front of my flat screen TV, still tethered by 4ft joystick cables. It hurts the eyes!

     

    Anyway, I see these on eBay, and wanted to know what you think ...

    eBay Auction -- Item Number: 2005012590041?ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&item=200501259004&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]

     

    I'm mostly concerned about attenuation over the course of the extra 10 feet.

  23. Posted

    Heavy sixers and light sixers have the same metal shielding. The weight difference is due to the insanely thick bottom plastic casing of the heavy sixer. If your bottom casing is mostly the same thickness as the top, it's a light sixer.

    I think this may be the answer. But this is the first time I've heard that a light-6 and a heavy-6 share the same shielding. I'd heard that the metal shielding was different between the heavy and light, not just the chassis. Hence my confusion.

     

    My chassis is a light-6.

     

    Also, you wrote "light-4" as if there is such a thing as a "heavy-4", but there isn't.

    Yeah, my dumbassedness. I actually knew that.

  24. Posted

    Why on earth do you want to do that? :?

    Why would you do that?? :?

     

    Huh ... Are you too in cahoots? ;)

     

    The purpose was to try to clean the area between the plastic cartridge slot and the metal shield. I draw the line at actually unsoldering anything, as I don't want to misalign the slot and/or damage the board.

  25. Posted · Edited by SlowCoder

    Yeah, I'm asking a bunch of questions ... Don't beat me up, please. :P

     

    I would like to know where I could get my hands on a test cartridge? If not an original, is there an aftermarket one available, or is there some way of putting a test cart ROM on a blank?

AtariAge
Forums
Store
General
Follow AtariAge

Copyright ©1998-2021 AtariAge

×
×
  • Create New...