SlowCoder

Well, you boys just jumped right off target, didn't 'ya? That's fine with me, as it brings up another thought ... I have this wireless React controller for my PS2. It's not the best controller. but I wonder how difficult it would be to mate it's wireless components into an Atari Joystick, including some sort of battery compartment to operate it. Then the receiver that normally plugs into my PS2 could perhaps be mated to the Atari controller ports? But as this is definitely not the same as "what are the best extension cables" topic, I think I'll start a new thread. http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/166948-idea-for-building-wireless-atari-controllers/

I'm not an electronics expert, though I do understand some aspects, and I know how to use a soldering iron. I have a React wireless PS2 controller set (2 controllers, one receiver for both). The controllers operate on 2 AA batteries. Physically, I'm guessing the receiver could be refitted with serial-style connectors to plug into the Atari. My questions: Is the controller voltage for the PS2 different than that of the Atari? Would the Atari's power be able to drive the wireless receiver? What would be the best way to mod the Atari controller to accept the wireless board and batteries? I'd be willing to experiment, with the hardware if you guys could give me some pointers on where to begin. Ideas are definitely welcome. I suppose I'd start by determining the pinout of the Atari controller ports, and the PS2 controller ports, and build a serial connection off that pinout. Anyone here able to provide that information?

Take a look at the "top 100 2600 games of all time" thread here: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/62626-top-100-2600-games-of-all-time/ That should get you started. But there's nothing better than experimenting. You can download Atari 2600 ROMS, and run them on an emulator. Then, if you like some of them, go out and find the cartridges to play for real.

Yeah, so I went with the glue stick. Works very nice. I was afraid it wouldn't hold to plastic, as its generally used for paper, but I think its a good deal.

If I spent the money and time to install the composite mod in my system, what could I expect the overall video improvement to be?

I took a nonworking cartridge and basically doused the contacts with 90+ alcohol. Then inserted it about 20 times into the machine. Wiped off cartridge, then repeated. Let the system sit for a while to.allow the alcohol to go bye bye, then cranked it up.

The primary reason I desire a testcart is because I'm considering a composite mod, and I'd want to be able to adjust my color. And at this point, I might as well ask what type of video quality improvement is there after this upgrade?

Wow, the Harmony cartridge looks pretty dern cool. Unfortunately I don't have $60 to pull out of my rear end at this time. I'll definitely keep it in mind though

Back in the middle ages (30 years ago), my TV was much closer to the floor, and the entire screen could be seen when I was 3 feet away, with the Atari just out front, and my joysticks tethered on 4ft of cable. Zoom forward 30 years and now my TV's bigger, and much higher. I'm no longer dumb enough to let the Atari sit on the floor. But I am now basically forced to stand in front of my flat screen TV, still tethered by 4ft joystick cables. It hurts the eyes! Anyway, I see these on eBay, and wanted to know what you think ... eBay Auction -- Item Number: 200501259004 I'm mostly concerned about attenuation over the course of the extra 10 feet.

Cough cough ...

I think this may be the answer. But this is the first time I've heard that a light-6 and a heavy-6 share the same shielding. I'd heard that the metal shielding was different between the heavy and light, not just the chassis. Hence my confusion. My chassis is a light-6. Yeah, my dumbassedness. I actually knew that.

Huh ... Are you too in cahoots? The purpose was to try to clean the area between the plastic cartridge slot and the metal shield. I draw the line at actually unsoldering anything, as I don't want to misalign the slot and/or damage the board.

Yeah, I'm asking a bunch of questions ... Don't beat me up, please. I would like to know where I could get my hands on a test cartridge? If not an original, is there an aftermarket one available, or is there some way of putting a test cart ROM on a blank?

Then glue stick it is, fellas! I have kids, so I'm sure I can find some under the couch, or behind the toilet.

I'm pretty sure it's a light-6, based on the thinner molding on the sides and bottom. Unfortunately there is no manufacturer's sticker on the bottom of my unit. But what puzzles me is this: I've been researching and I've seen images of some of the light-4's. I've noticed the mainboard shielding is not as thick on them as it is on my machine. To see an example of what I have, take a look at the following link: http://news.cnet.com/2300-1043_3-6239426-9.html?tag=mncol, and navigate to the image of the shielding surrounding the mainboard: And here is what all of the 4's I've seen appear to have: http://www.leftylimbo.com/2010/04/cleaning-my-atari-2600/ I could not find an example of a light-6 disassembled. Do all of the light-6's have this heavier shielding, or could mine be some sort of hybrid, previously repaired, etc.?

Only to make sure it is cleaned out. If it comes to unsoldering, that's where I'd draw the line. I just thought maybe there is a way I hadn't figured out yet.

What is the proper glue to reattach the labels to the cartridges? I have a few cartridges that have labels that are coming loose. I don't want to use super glue, as I don't want to permanently glue the cartridge halves together. And I don't think something like a glue stick would be a good permanent solution either. Obviously whatever glue I'd want to use would not discolor the label.

I've completed refurb of my Atari, except for one mystery ... I would like to be able to remove the cartridge slot assembly from the metal casing. I have removed the circuit board from the bottom of the metal casing and am now unable to determine how to remove the slot assembly from it without unsoldering the connectors. Any ideas?