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SlowCoder

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Posts posted by SlowCoder

  2. Posted

    I don't care to self-perform electrical mods to my consoles. I'd much rather pay a much more experienced person I trust to do it for me.

     

    The 3mm Red LED's I'm looking at are 50mA.

    I believe that would be a max draw for them. Putting a 1K resistor behind it would bring it down quite a bit.

     

    Well this idea was squashed quickly then...

    ??? I think you misunderstood. The 1K resistor would decrease the amount of draw through the LED, but not necessarily the amount of light emitted.

    • Like 2

  3. Posted

    I don't care to self-perform electrical mods to my consoles. I'd much rather pay a much more experienced person I trust to do it for me.

     

    The 3mm Red LED's I'm looking at are 50mA.

    I believe that would be a max draw for them. Putting a 1K resistor behind it would bring it down quite a bit.

    • Like 2

  4. Posted

    @Yurkie, are the consoles running so close to the capacity of the power supply, that the addition of a single 30mah LED would exceed it? I don't have the specs in front of me.

     

    Be very careful concerning the amout of current (amperage) used by LEDs or lighted switches. You will likely excede the amp rating on the power supply, especially with more that one.

     

    I personally think the lighted switches look out of place and won't install them. If someone really feels they need it, I will install a power on LED.

     

    Oh man, just might have to pack my YurkieVision up so it can get a little RED LED loving' ???

    No, I'm sure you could do it yourself.

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    The expansion units are key. People prefer a system with those in them. If you had a unit with PS (no carts or controllers) with the expansion, it has a much better chance of selling. I think you can get the Expansion units reasonably from one of the surplus places online, but if you have one in a system, keep them together. If I had a system without PS that has the expansion, I'd sell them separately since nobody wants systems without the PS, and I wouldn't be surprised if the system without PS sold for less than an expansion.

    You make a good point. A N64 without PS is pretty much worthless, because you can easily get a full console for just a few dollars. The consoles themselves are built pretty robust, and unless they've made a trip to Hell and back, they'll probably work forever. So the likelihood that someone will buy just a blank console as a replacement is very small.

  6. Posted · Edited by SlowCoder

    I know it looks like you got your answer, but ...

    Depending on the make of the expansion, its value by itself looks to be somewhere between $10 and $20 on eBay (based on completed and sold auctions). And it definitely comes in handy for a few worthwhile games.

     

    Too bad your console is the black model. All I ever see are the black ones at a good price level. I've got just about all of the controller colors, I believe, but only the black console. :(

  10. Posted

    It does appear to be in good condition, well taken care of. What you have there is a 2600 Light Sixer. It's a good specimen. :)

     

    There isn't a rarity guide, because Ataris are not rare. The rarer of them, the Heavies (Atari and Sears), can be easily found on eBay on just about any day.

  12. Posted

    Lots of good answers. In short, that was a LOT of extra cash, even if it was a Heavy. A package like that shouldn't have been much more than $30 for a light sixer, maybe a bit more for a heavy sixer. The games you got are commons, and don't do much for the price of the package.

     

    Can you provide a link to the eBay auction? Maybe there's something in it that would make it worth $100.

     

    You make a good point about the bezel paint being an indicator of its use, but I wouldn't put too much emphasis on that for value. Most of these consoles can be returned to excellent visual and functional condition with a good thorough cleaning and refurbish. As was stated, a paint pen can easily fix the bezel.

     

    If it makes you feel better, when I got my first 2600, I overpaid at $89 for about the same package you got. So I think we all fall into that trap at one time or another. :) Just remember, that this is a hobby. No matter how much you spent, have fun, and appreciate it.

  14. Posted

    It's obvious they're making the DLC in tandem with the actual game, and could have included it, but choose not to so they can sell it to you later.

    In some cases, but not all. In some games they actually don't have DLC created at game release. In Burnout Paradise, they didn't develop and release their island pack for about 2 years after game release. It reignited interest in the game for at least another year.

     

    In the cases your statement is true of, which I believe is a high percentage, it's just crookery on the part of the developers/publishers.

  19. Posted

    1. Judging from the size of the GameLine, I bet it was pretty hard on the console connectors. Seems it could easily put stress on the port.

    2. After you downloaded a game, say you only played a game 4 times and turned off the console. Did it save the remainder of the gameplays, or the game(s) themselves?

  21. Posted

    If you don't mind the Sears Tele-Games version I find they can be found for cheap too.

    I paid $4 for this system ($18 S&H) and it is in like-new condition.

     

    Now it is my main 2600 system that I use on my gaming system.

    I'd have to say that's a steal! But I disagree with your estimation they are cheaper as a unit. In fact, I believe they are harder to find than the Atari branded ones.

     

    The supply may be lower but the demand may not be as high for them because they do not have the Atari logo and the woodgrain.

    Ah, but it is the Sears wood grain (*getting dreamy eyed*) that ... gets ... me ... turned ... on. :P

  22. Posted

    After a good life, my 40GB PS3 bit the dust. I'm trying to figure out what to do with it now. I could part it out and sell the power supply and blu-ray drive on eBay. Or maybe I could figure out how to turn the whole thing into a lamp of some sort with a static switch. Or I could keep it in the hopes that one day it could be repaired, which I don't think would be a good prospect.

     

    What do you guys think?

  23. Posted

    If you don't mind the Sears Tele-Games version I find they can be found for cheap too.

    I paid $4 for this system ($18 S&H) and it is in like-new condition.

     

    Now it is my main 2600 system that I use on my gaming system.

    I'd have to say that's a steal! But I disagree with your estimation they are cheaper as a unit. In fact, I believe they are harder to find than the Atari branded ones.

  24. Posted

    I think it's fine to use what you want to play with, as long as there's no competition. But in a sanctioned competition, I think it should always be required to play with original, 1st party hardware, no matter what console you're talking about.

     

    I love the Slik Stik. The short throw is great for twitch games. But I can just about as easily play with the CX40. The CX10, while a beautiful piece of art, simply has too much throw for my comfort. I've used the Genesis controller a couple of times, but it just doesn't feel right on a 2600.

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