SlowCoder

Down works when pushed with the eraser? The CX10s do have a lot more throw than the CX40s. Are you pulling the stick all the way down?

How exactly were you testing them? Define "input 1" and "input 2".

Can we safely guess that the cx40s work fine, ruling out a problem at the console ports or chips? Yes, crack the cx10s apart and see what's up. They're actually quite durable, and I'd think they'd have to to have suffered some real abuse to die. Check continuity on the cables, and see if there's any cracking of the contact domes.

I've never seen a console fishing accessory before. That's cool!

Gosh, SAG ...when you put your mind to something it only takes you 2 days to do it!

This video was really more of a cleanup show, than a repair show, and was a demonstration that a good cleanup can work wonders. To me, cleanup is more than just a wipe down with a rag, and does include general refurbishing of all of the electrical contacts on the console. I suspect that the static was from one, or a combination, of dirty connections. You are correct, the trace cleaning will do nothing for the performance of the system, except for a possible electrical bridge from larger debris. In this case, there was just lots of gunk on the mainboard. I had previously cleaned the cart connector, and failed to "re-enact" that part in the video. You could always play a guessing game as to which switch could be causing interference, or use some expensive tool to measure noise. After 30 years, the old grease in these consoles is drying up, and gumming the switches. May as well go all the way and clean all of them.

I was at work when I initially responded to the thread. Yes, that's my video.

I'd imagine the mechanical difference between the VA2 controllers and standard Atari controllers can't be that much. I bet if you opened it up, you could figure it out.

Big from me.

It sounds like the video you're talking about is mine, though I could be wrong. My Youtube name is TomeOfKnowledge74. Take a look in my signature for my thread on this very subject, and goes through joysticks and paddles also. My video was a quick and dirty representation of the console part of the thread.

Nothing may come of it from your shop, but you are still helping to find a good way to protect the board. I thank you for the work you're doing.

I like this solution. Good work! As far as I'm concerned, you could leave the form-fitting shape as long as it doesn't cause problems with heat. Then you could just put a small sticker on the large chip saying it's a Turbo EverDrive.

Either incorrect link, or the auction was removed. Link works for me. It's a VGA95 sealed Mario Party 3 for $39,999.99. Plus shipping ($27.40 for me). Pshhhhh ... Chump change. I carry twice that much in my wallet, and at least that much again in my sock. I give $500 daily to the bum I walk past on the street. Yeah, I can afford that.

Either incorrect link, or the auction was removed.

Yeah, that's a pretty cool table. Looks pretty simple to make, too.

If the edges are rounded, its a heavy, and I think you can be 100%. If you're still not convinced, post a pic and we'll tell you for sure.

Gosh, if that's true, ALL THE MORE REASON TO GET THE TURBO EVERDRIVE!!

Yeah, I scanned and even searched by the console name within the thread, but I did not READ the entire 35 pages. The heat shrink wrapping would be a great idea if we could find some big enough. A condom? I disagree. All it would take to kill the card is a little static from your fingers on a cold dry day. It could happen when you're removing it from the console to store in your safe anti-static bag. At $80 a pop, I'd rather minimize the risk as much as possible. Today's electronics are not the same as they were in the 80's. They cannot withstand nearly the same amount of static discharge as they used to.

Looking around, I only see the bare board of the Turbo EverDrive available. Apparently there is no way to fit this inside a standard cartridge, like is done for other consoles. I understand this, as the size of a TG16 card is rather small. I may be interested in purchasing one soon, but am concerned about the life of an unprotected board. I've heard of people dipping or painting USB sticks with polyurethane, or something similar to protect them. What do you think of this as an option? If you have one of these cards, what steps have you taken to protect it from static or other damage?

Yeah, looks like just the game is going for around $40 on eBay, and the console would go for at least that much again. I think I'll be looking to get the Turbo Everdrive soon. Is it only available board-only? I couldn't find it at StoneAgeGamer assembled. I wouldn't want to destroy SplatterHouse. I'm also interested in getting my hands on Blazing Lazers, which really looks cool!

Machine started first time. I used my Genesis PS with it. Splatterhouse looks pretty interesting. Knives and chairs trying to kill me. LOL! I think this machine definitely deserves a look for the TG flash card! Funny that what would appear to be Turbo switches on the controller buttons actually appear to do the opposite, delaying the fire time.

Got the machine yesterday. I think only one controller and no power supply. Did come with Splatterhouse, though, so I think that's good. $15. Walked out of the store with that and a complete NES with about 8 controllers for a total $30. Was feeling pretty crummy yesterday, so didn't get a chance to really look at the TG16. Hoping to plug it in tonight.

You guys have me stoked. Hoping for good things around lunch today!

I got a call today from my favorite GoodWill. Sounds like I may have a chance to get a TurboGrafx console. Don't know for how much, or what it will come with, but I imagine $15 for just the console, and no more than $30 for a good package. This was not a console I ever really thought about having in my collection, but after looking at some YT videos, it really looks like an interesting one. Something between an SMS and a Genesis, but with lots o' colors. What are your opinions of the system? What should I look out for? What do you think they're worth?

I've heard a lot of people say this works. My question is, for how long? My problem with this is that there is all kinds of old gummy grease inside that pot that is displaced by the spray, but not necessarily removed. I think only a good internal cleaning and re-lube with di-electric grease will keep them running smooth for a long time. Also, the use of new grease will also decrease the friction, keeping it from wearing out as quickly. It's a metal finger scraping on a carbon strip.