SlowCoder

A good scroller will make the player, enemies and projectiles plainly visible (unless intentionally otherwise) for good game play. There was way too much video movement on that Jim Power video to make it comfortable even to watch for more than a few minutes. If they'd made the background more static, it would be much easier.

That's a pretty good price, in my opinion. Of course, pics are always good.

Does the phrase "an item is worth what someone is willing to pay for it" seem to work here? I don't really have a problem with flipping, and I'm not sure it really drives the price of items up that much. If you don't want to spend the money they want for the item, then just don't buy it. But I don't think you should be upset if someone else is willing to pay for it.

Meybe I shuld chek my effin' grammer befor aye poste.

Yeah, the box would have to go. When I first got started and was green to the hobby, I ended up paying $5+2 shipping for the game, and I think another $15 for the controllers, because I couldn't seem to get my hands on it otherwise. After that, I must have gotten 3-4 copies over time in lots, and I now have a few driving controllers that were included with systems. Funny how things work like that. Maybe $15 shipped isn't too bad for all of it isn't too bad.

Considered adding some bait in the form of a few games? Might get some new interest from people who don't have a CV yet. Eye candy (pictures) could also help. Maybe you could put it up on eBay. In the description, mention that it connects to RF and RCA (composite), but don't specifically state it's "modded". Then if people ask you can let them know. Though it doesn't sound like your console has these mods, I'd technically define the BIOS and pause mods offered by Yurkie as game mods. The BIOS mod overrides the 10 second title screen, and the pause mod pauses the games. Technically, the game isn't being loaded/played as designed. However, I still wouldn't consider such mods to be illegal, because they don't allow you to play otherwise disallowed games.

Hopefully this will explain what I'm doing ... Just to clarify, the SNES I'm using for this is a test. The value of the SNES is inconsequential. Yes, it's costing me a little to do the test, but it's worth it to me to get it right. I have my Coleco ADAM from childhood, and I'm also rebuilding . I want to get the process right, so I don't destroy these 2 personally valuable items. While I'm not particularly keen on wasting a console, I'm willing to destroy a dirt-common SNES case to accomplish this. In the mean-time, I'm posting my procedure and findings here for people to read and critique, so we all can learn more about the process. I'm hoping it will hold out long enough to finish at least this SNES. I'm thinking about going ahead and adding some OxyClean to see if it helps the process. I'm also considering switching to gel to see if I get any better results.

Sounds like this project took a lot of development and work time. Consoles that are modded correctly are a minor few compared to the ones that are half-arsed. In my opinion, that makes those few worth a few extra bucks, not unlike a rare game.

Is Yurkie still selling them? If so, you'll likely benefit from knowing how much he's currently selling for, and set your discounted price accordingly. It could be that the market is saturated at this point. As much as I'd appreciate a 2nd YurkieVision, I'm afraid I can't afford it right now.

I understand. This isn't straight peroxide though. And it's an experiment to see what happens. If it doesn't work out, consider it my contribution to the furtherment of knowledge in what NOT to do. From what I've read, the blooming and brittling is risked by using any of the Retrobrite recipes. Other than the use of the OxyClean as a catalyst, all the other things seem to do is make it a gel. I was not interested in using a gel. I wanted to completely submerge my console, the logic being that it would be more evenly covered.

Not much different, except no mixing and all the other stuff. I try to keep my projects as simple and cost-effective as possible.

Here are the results after 2 hours soaking in the 40 vol developer ... Viewing the top vs. the bottom, there is a definite improvement. Comparing the top vs. the plastic strip, I can see that I have quite a distance to go before I have achieved my goal. I'd say there was about a 40% improvement. I could continue to soak the top in the developer, but I've run out of sun. So, I'm about to go out looking for a UV lamp for some overnight soaking.

It's been an hour. Time to see if there's any progress. The top (shown on bottom) is a bit lighter than the bottom (shown on top ). There does appear to be progress made. Back into the developer it goes ... Note: You may have noticed that I was not wearing gloves in the last pic. I have pretty hearty hands, but this stuff does seem to find any cuts and scratches, even the ones you didn't know you had! Also, my hand is a bit tingly, not an entirely comfortable feeling, kind of like when blood flow is restored to a previously "asleep" appendage. Don't take my example. I highly recommend that you wear gloves.

After 30 minutes, the cover has formed bubbles. Not surprising with peroxide. On one hand, I'm concerned the bubbles could contribute to "polka dots". On the other hand, I'm tempted to see what these "polka dots" might look like once the experiment is completed. They are more or less equally distributed across the top. Any thoughts? Wipe away, or allow to stay?

... using 40 vol hair developer? I decided to give this a shot at the recommendation of another AA member. I have a badly yellowed SNES console. The case is slightly cracked, probably due to brittling. No big deal if the whole experiment goes south. I am planning to submerge the top of the console in clear liquid 40vol developer. I decided not to go with the equivalent cream, because I'd keep having to reapply it periodically, and I thought liquid might minimize the blooming (unequal discoloration). I will keep the cover submerged for 2 hours in the sun, rotating the container every 15 minutes. Temperature outside is about 75f, at about 1:00pm. Mostly sunny, a few moving clouds. Product I'm using: I bought four 32oz bottles for the experiment. Each bottle cost me $5, a total cost of $20+tax. Here's the console before the experiment starts: As you can see, the console is quite yellowed, with the top and bottom covers matching in discoloration. Other parts of the covers can be seen, apparently unaffected by the UV over the years. Here's the console submerged in the developer. Though I tried to use an appropriately sized pan, I still had to use all 128oz of the developer to fully submerge the cover. Will post more later ...

I'm planning to test this out very soon. I have a nice yellowed SNES with a brittle and imperfect case that won't be a huge loss should the test end badly. I'll probably call around to some salons tomorrow to see if they have some 40 vol clear developer. I'm not too keen on all the mixing and brushing involved in the RetroBrite recipe. Would rather just drop in a tub and let it sit outside. Once I am ready, I'll take the standard before and after pics so we can see how well it all works out. Oh, and I AM still interested in some of your pics. @Arkhan, how long will this stuff last? Do you think I'd be able to soak a few consoles before the solution "expires"?

This could be some interesting information for those who collect pirates. But I definitely recommend you get a better application for development. Paint just ain't gonna do it. There are a bunch of free flowchart apps available for this, if you don't already have one. Would help both in reading, and in your being able to edit as more information comes available.

Hehe, as long as the "slapdash" part works and is on the inside, who cares. Whatever you do, just don't cut the console case to make it fit. That would be bad, and would anger the 2600 Gods.

Yurkie's awesome like that. Alternatively, you could probably cut the cord's plastic to make it fit. Should work fine as long as you don't remove any of the actual metal shielding. No matter how you do it, remember to fasten the cord down inside the console. 1. Most cases have "runners" where you can tuck the cord in. 2. On most consoles, there's also a small post near the back where you can tie a very loose knot in the cord. These will help keep the cord from getting pulled/tugged out of either the RCA jack on the board, or out of the console itself.

Not disagreeing with you, but if I was one of those developers, I may not have admitted to that anyway. Not even 30 years later. I can't see how such a strategy could have worked out anyway. I honestly never heard that someone would buy an entirely new system just because "the games on X system rock so much harder than the same games on my Y system". At least not when you're probably just talking about a few games, considering the myriad of games available on the 2600 compared to the CV and IntV consoles.

Other than the "just to do it" reason for cutting up a NES, why not just buy a top loader? You're right, there's a lot of work to be done to convert it, and a good way to destroy a good NES. Not worth the effort in my opinion. By the way, I see you're new, so WELCOME TO AA!

Interest in the hobby not stand up, or is there another reason? Why can't you sell on ebay? I'd assume you could sell, as long as you don't include the roms.

Pretty much anything to do with controllers of that era are digital. That means the signal is either on or off. If there's a "delay", then it sounds like a weak or intermittent connection. Clean the gold contacts and the rubber pads with 90+% alcohol and qtips really well. Don't use water in this process. Make sure there's no grit in or around the buttons that could bind them. If they still don't work, then you may need to check the individual wires for shorts or cuts with a voltmeter.

^ This. Just make sure the cleaned is plastic safe. I don't believe WD40 is safe for plastics. If you really want to get down and dirty with your console, check out the cleaning links in my signature.

Stiff controller? Find a hot chick at a bar, bring her home and let her play with it for a while. That should fix it ... or so I've heard.