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atari-dna

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About atari-dna

  • Birthday 06/18/1974

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  1. I haven't filmed the process. PM sent
  2. progress update some fine gradient detail to apply [moreso] on the "Fever" lettering after it's drawn and a glitter stroke, then pretty much ready to print
  3. I've always liked this design, though I never have lucked into a vintage tee of my own. So I've decided to recreate one suitable to "fill the void" by stenciling the original design in PS / AI. This may become a shirt, also magnet stock could be fun. The only hurdle I think will be simulating the "sparkle" stroke outline. So, the process begins...
  4. Thank you @TwoShedsWilson, this helped me remember how they hemmed it. I appreciate the help!
  5. Can someone post some pics showing the interior of the original dust cover for the 5200? I’m interested to see the seams on the underside where the stitch is most visible. Thank you!
  6. You may want to start with a toothbrush and alcohol dip, wipe all 15 pins off in your port 2. See how much gunk you might get off them. If your controllers are trustworthy, then the port itself may need attention. See if any pins are bent backward, or if you have any cracked or dry solder joints on the reverse side of the PCB. Watch the port when you connect a controller, wiggle it some and make sure you don't have a mechanical problem first. Then, turn your attention to A10. Get a logic probe and see if you can detect a state change on A10 pins 1 / 5 / 2 / 4 when you toggle the buttons on your controller keypads. I think it maps out like so: A10 Pin 1 = CST4 (button "4") ; A10 pin 5 = CST5 (button "5") ; A10 Pin 2 (button "6") ; A10 pin 4 CST7 (Start, Pause, Reset buttons). Report back and we can go from there. A logic probe is less than $15 and a fine investment. It's better than shooting in the dark.
  7. @Ballblaɀer just discovered this sheet, I have been organizing my manual collection (recently). If I notice any versions not enumerated in your document, I'll post :0)
  8. Thanks for posting thoughts on these new flex circuit offerings. The price point is attractive, I hope the build quality is solid, durability and all that. From the above feedback, it certainly seems worth a try to get a pair and try 'em out.
  9. I have a few systems, including one in the "reduced size" retail box. That system of mine included just the console. Since finding that unit at a yard sale over 20 years ago, I've wondered how the accessories were packed in with the console; which takes up pretty much all the available space in the box. Where did the transformer go? How many controllers fit in there? Was a cartridge included--it could certainly have been stuffed under the console. How did they cram this stuff in this form factor? I'm guessing there was some type of custom styrofoam tray that my unit lacks, which housed everything and lived on top of the console? Regardless, I'd like to know... Help me end the mystery, if you have a complete unit in the smaller box (pictured below) can you post photos to demonstrate how the contents of this package were stowed? The mystery box in question
  10. Your problem may not be the xtal. If you don't have a clock then you should also check Q1 and Q2 for proper voltages as they are the drivers for the clock to oscillate. Faulty transistors (or associated components) could be the culprit.
  11. You're correct about the channel switch, the earliest units did not have them. Your tag is interesting, it looks like a silver sticker which has been placed over the standard issue white paper one (it's peeking out on the right hand side). Regardless, a four digit number looks pretty low! The embossed "300" is unique. Pretty cool. Haven't seen that before. Open it up and let's see inside :0)
  12. Neat, I would have been age 4 in late June of '78. My bday is the 18th. The leads were pretty long if I remember correctly, I had been in the unit once before and trimmed them all down, apparently changed C106 and the voltage regulator as well. Mine is working, hope you get your clock issue sorted out.
  13. Probably implemented as current limiters there are (3) T0-220 package voltage regulators present in the circuit as well (+12, +5 and -5)
  14. Mine is similar, including the peculiar blue sockets. Interesting observation, in each of these systems the audio oscillation transistor is germanium.
  15. Cool, thanks for sharing. I'm interested to compare and contrast them as I suspect that the Taiwan units are all hodgepodge of whatever parts existed in inventory (and were quickly slapped together) when manufacturing was shifted to Asia. Those blue blocks might be insertion aids Might check the regulator for A/C ripple, if excessive that could be the culprit for a dead unit. Additionally, the filter caps on the switchboard C103 and C106 on the input may have ripple or just "age" disease. Output caps may have shorts to ground (or other concerns, leaky or ripple-y, etc) check these as well: C101, 102 (<-switchboard), 105, 200, 204, 205, 214, 219, 239, 240 This will keep you busy while you wait for the crystal to arrive
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