atari-dna

I'm looking forward to Space Invaders Collection being re-released, I missed out on this one and am not interested in eBay inflation

I like the white eraser, I purchased one at an art store for a few bucks. For really grimy contacts a little dab of Noxon7 shines up pins like nobody's business. I've also had success with the Weiman's stovetop stuff-- but the harsh stuff is rarely needed. I have access to highly distilled water from the lab, at the micron level. That stuff will leech the minerals from your teeth if you drink it. Not corrosive at all, and doesn't dry the plastics out like alcohol can.

Is the RCA connector in the switch box dirty or corroded? Is your RF cable rusty or discolored? Also, is the cable loosely fitting on the RCA jack? If so, might want to tighten it up a bit. A weak / intermittent connection of the R/F cable to the switch box itself can cause several weird power symptoms.

Is the RF cord itself bent badly, cut or frayed? You may have internal issues with the cable, or the RF modulator may require adjustment. Nice that it's working though; make sure you do *not* forget about those 1973 NiCad batteries though, when packing up the unit for storage...

You'll likely want to open the console. Check for good continuity (multimeter, Ω setting, or continuity "beep" test) and make sure the cable itself passes. I had a Video Pinball that had horrible picture, turned out the cable had tons of resistance and must have had internal breaks, etc which rendered it useless. Replaced the RF cable and the system is clear as a bell. YMMV

Scored a complete in box unit recently, no battery damage. Pics of console (and hopefully video) will be coming once I clean it up and test it out!

You can adjust the R/F modulator, which might be off frequency. Try Channel 2 and 3 (not sure 4 was utilized?). Getting the unit apart will be the first priority, pics will help. Also, you may have damaged / crimped points in your RF cord that could be contributing to the poor picture. The cable may need to be replaced, but likely a tuning adjustment if you have picture and just interference / stabilization issue. Does the speaker in the unit emit sounds?

Cracke'd holds a warm nostalgia for me, although the gameplay is crippled by lack of actual light gun support. As is, "Meh". If retrofitted for the light gun, it could be in serious contention for "Solid". Opportunity wasted. Dark Chambers is a neat concept but doesn't hold my attention very long. As a Gauntlet clone most of the core elements are there, but without the thrill of stretching quarters the thrill is somewhat muted. Without the ghostly narrator egging you on or the dynamics of contending with other players (stealing potions and food, backstabbers!!) this game doesn't live up to its potential either. "Meh"

Do yourself a favor and make sure you lock down a copy of RealSports Baseball for your 5200. It is the most awesome classic-era baseball game there is. We play best of 7 world series runs, always a winner at gatherings!

Pac-Man, Missile Command, Qix, RealSports Baseball, Centipede, Space Dungeon, Defender, Moon Patrol and Vanguard are the carts that get the most attention

Qix Skilled 127,026

109,598. Improving

Swear me in, brothers. I have been intoxicated by this system since first being exposed to it at the neighbor's house in late '82. My retinas were tattooed to that near arcade perfection. The sticks were foreign and weird and wonderful. Always coveted the console but never got one back then. Finally got delivery as a birthday gift from the wife in 1998. Worth the wait as many friends were feeling the beginning pull of retro mania just picking up steam then. Have several more consoles now, most of the library, dozens of controllers and 3 Trak-balls. I love this system.

I have been using 3M Metal Foil Tape, which is available at Lowe's. A roll is about $12. Hole punch works fine. The tape has Great adhesive backing. Over a year now on my earlier rebuild, a Rev7 flex circuit with metal sticky dots and no issues, functions great. No glue required either.

Do you have +5V on output of VR2?

Qix, 105,705 Love this translation.

Sounds like your trigger line is shorted to the +5V, likely a defective U5. Do you have the same issue with ports, 2, 3 or 4? In the meantime you could just start 2 player games and use player 2 if that one functions normally. U5 is your problem. This is your GTIA chip. The trigger line for port 1 is pin 8 on GTIA. This pin should register +5V, with the controller plugged in. You can measure Pin 8 (pos lead) and pin 3 (neg lead, VSS) to determine if the proper voltage is present. you will need clip leads to test the voltage drop, or another set of hands... With leads attached, does the voltage on Pin 8 drop to 0.7V (approx) with the bottom fire button depressed? If so, GTIA is the problem. Socket and replace. Check the capacitor C110 as well Report back, if none of this makes sense to you then I could perform the diagnostics and repair if you want to send me the motherboard.

Pitfall II personal best. 2nd cavern is a murder zone! 190,402

Pitfall II, completed first cavern. 137,084

Still running through caverns, I'll have an entry this weekend

Probably just needed to tune the RF modulator. Can be done with a hex key 5/64. Preferably plastic, but you can use metal it is just harder to fine tune as it conducts and creates interference. Patience can get it done though.

Space Dungeon 28,080

Berzerk 7,850

Coin detected in pocket! Berzerk 4,040