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Everything posted by atari-dna
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I saw a 5200 on Craigslist and I want to know if its worth it
atari-dna replied to silentseal's topic in Atari 5200
Easily worth the money. Grab it before it’s gone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Anyone have a source for these crimp on "pressure fit" F connectors ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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11,778 Space Invaders
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Did a bit better, 8th key. Got careless with infinite blue ghosts and foolishly lost my last PAC. 155,570 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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65,100 Am I the only one playing this on original hardware? [emoji2] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Improved Color For Your 4-Switch Woody: A Public Service Bulletin
atari-dna replied to DrVenkman's topic in Atari 2600
I've installed the resistor once, it seemed to help. The "mini" version of the resistor (which has the same characteristics as an older, physically larger resistor) fits nicely. About 10 of these for a dollar at DigiKey. I have a part number if anyone is interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Does anyone have a pair of extra paddle knobs they're willing to part with, for sale or trade? I'm looking for the later model 2600 version, preferably with the little indent clip(s) still inside them.
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I see it's been handled
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When playing this cartridge (and attempting to create patterns for various stages--unsuccessfully no less) I have discovered what should only be considered a programming bug. I'm not sure it's well documented, so I'm posting my observation. On the 5th key, when eating an energizer, the ghosts immediately blink white/blue and there should be very little blue time at all. However, they remain blinking blue--UNTIL YOU EAT THEM. It's virtually endless. This holds true for each energizer. It's a points bonanza, too. Normal vulnerability resumes upon the 6th key and I can't comment much beyond that-- can't get many more levels beyond... Anyone else encounter this weird phenomenon?
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Who's idea was the Atari 5200 switch-box?
atari-dna replied to Atari PAC-MAN Fan's topic in Atari 5200
They're easy to maintain, I quite like the 4 port and switchbox setup. It's where my nostalgia is for this system. Suggestion (as per the 5200 User manual): Plug power and video cable into switchbox BEFORE plugging the power adapter into the wall socket... -
Space Invaders & Pac-Man Collection Re-releases
atari-dna replied to David Alexander's topic in Opcode Games
Yeah! Ready for that! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Space Invaders & Pac-Man Collection Re-releases
atari-dna replied to David Alexander's topic in Opcode Games
Still interested in a Space Invaders collection re-issue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
No, see my post above. The 2 1/4" ball is a bumper pool cue ball. Not regulation billiards size.
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I'll check eBay for some, otherwise just hit up Best for more product. Thanks guys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Its definitely the capacitors...
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I've come across a Heavy 6 with the same audio trouble. Constant static on the audio, but perfect video. I've fooled around with the inductor coils on both the RF and the PCB, but I can't get any audio at all. Presumably, the polystyrene capacitors are going to have to be replaced? That 820pF rating isn't available in the Mouser or Digikey archive, the closest value is .001uF, but I'd actually require a .00082uF. Would it be out of tolerance to order the .001uF, or should I bite the bullet and come up with >$25 worth of parts to order from Best Electronics? It seems a shame, since these things are only pennies. Do you have any on hand Zylon? I would need 4, would like to keep a pair in the parts bin.
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ColecoVision 1.2 - replacement PCB, added features
atari-dna replied to 5-11under's topic in ColecoVision / Adam
Add me to the interested list :0) -
Intellivision II - need IC (U9 - LAD - 5872-0010)
atari-dna replied to AtariBuff's topic in Intellivision / Aquarius
Yes, I doubt there are a stockpile of custom Mattel Electronics ICs out there. You'll have to scavenge this from another Inty2 "donor" board [emoji53] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Intellivision II - need IC (U9 - LAD - 5872-0010)
atari-dna replied to AtariBuff's topic in Intellivision / Aquarius
Hope this photo can help, from my console Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Intellivision II - need IC (U9 - LAD - 5872-0010)
atari-dna replied to AtariBuff's topic in Intellivision / Aquarius
U9 is the extreme upper left NW edge of your photo, I think it's the 39502 This chip is custom stamped in my Intellivision II -
Intellivision II - need IC (U9 - LAD - 5872-0010)
atari-dna replied to AtariBuff's topic in Intellivision / Aquarius
U9 is the Mattel EXEC rom, http://console5.com/wiki/RO-3-9502 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
5200 OE HSC Season 3 Round 2 Space Invaders
atari-dna replied to zylon's topic in 5200 High Score Club
16,146 -
@flashjazzcat @Rybags is there a good source for these microswitches? I have a second console which has a frozen select switch in the active position. Can these be had, or is there a modern switch which could be substituted? Many thanks!
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I imagine Atari was cheap and from a bean counter perspective they wouldn't have felt compelled to include a heat sink in production. I'm not as familiar with the Sally processor as you guys, apparently its more robust than I thought. I think I'll add a sink to it regardless as there really is no harm in doing so
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Hi All, Having recently benefitted from the Atari Age forum's experience and knowledge base I was able to successfully diagnose and repair my Atari XE. Mainly, the processor had gone kaput. I also installed more modern ram (yes, everything was socketed). So now, I'm able to enjoy the console. Before I box it back up, I remember the 6502 Sally was burning up before I replaced it (part of how I learned it was deceased). The new Sally processor installed is working nicely, and it doesn't get raging hot (like the old one did) but it does get significantly warmer than any other chip on the motherboard. Presumably, because it's doing more work. My question is, should I grab some Arctic paste and a heat sink and install that on Sally? couldn't hurt, right? Does anyone have a good source for a lower profile 40 pin top mounting heat sink? Thanks in advance! Jeff
