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atari-dna

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Posts posted by atari-dna

  7. Posted · Edited by atari-dna

    Does anyone have a pair of extra paddle knobs they're willing to part with, for sale or trade? I'm looking for the later model 2600 version, preferably with the little indent clip(s) still inside them.

  9. Posted

    When playing this cartridge (and attempting to create patterns for various stages--unsuccessfully no less) I have discovered what should only be considered a programming bug. I'm not sure it's well documented, so I'm posting my observation.

     

    On the 5th key, when eating an energizer, the ghosts immediately blink white/blue and there should be very little blue time at all. However, they remain blinking blue--UNTIL YOU EAT THEM. It's virtually endless. This holds true for each energizer.

     

    It's a points bonanza, too. Normal vulnerability resumes upon the 6th key and I can't comment much beyond that-- can't get many more levels beyond...

     

    Anyone else encounter this weird phenomenon?

     

     

  13. Posted

    Or if you want white you can use any standard pool table cue ball can't you? Or are pool balls a different size?

     

    No, see my post above. The 2 1/4" ball is a bumper pool cue ball. Not regulation billiards size.

  16. Posted

    Sound problems are usually those 2 silvery polystyrene caps near the center chip. I would suspect the RIOT chip for the game loading issues. That's the one closest to the cart slot. Voltage regulator is another possibility.

     

    I've come across a Heavy 6 with the same audio trouble. Constant static on the audio, but perfect video. I've fooled around with the inductor coils on both the RF and the PCB, but I can't get any audio at all. Presumably, the polystyrene capacitors are going to have to be replaced? That 820pF rating isn't available in the Mouser or Digikey archive, the closest value is .001uF, but I'd actually require a .00082uF. Would it be out of tolerance to order the .001uF, or should I bite the bullet and come up with >$25 worth of parts to order from Best Electronics? It seems a shame, since these things are only pennies. Do you have any on hand Zylon? I would need 4, would like to keep a pair in the parts bin.

  23. Posted

    @flashjazzcat @Rybags is there a good source for these microswitches? I have a second console which has a frozen select switch in the active position. Can these be had, or is there a modern switch which could be substituted?

     

    Many thanks!

     

    post-26843-0-98451700-1448372295_thumb.jpg

  24. Posted

    ALL my A8's have original processors....none have any heatsinking....they didn't get it factory so why would it be necessary ? What you feel with your finger may stil be a very comfy and normal temperature for the chip....

    I imagine Atari was cheap and from a bean counter perspective they wouldn't have felt compelled to include a heat sink in production. I'm not as familiar with the Sally processor as you guys, apparently its more robust than I thought. I think I'll add a sink to it regardless as there really is no harm in doing so :)

  25. Posted

    Hi All,

     

    Having recently benefitted from the Atari Age forum's experience and knowledge base I was able to successfully diagnose and repair my Atari XE.

     

    Mainly, the processor had gone kaput. I also installed more modern ram (yes, everything was socketed).

     

    So now, I'm able to enjoy the console. Before I box it back up, I remember the 6502 Sally was burning up before I replaced it (part of how I learned it was deceased).

     

    The new Sally processor installed is working nicely, and it doesn't get raging hot (like the old one did) but it does get significantly warmer than any other chip on the motherboard. Presumably, because it's doing more work.

     

    My question is, should I grab some Arctic paste and a heat sink and install that on Sally? couldn't hurt, right? Does anyone have a good source for a lower profile 40 pin top mounting heat sink?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    Jeff

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