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Posts posted by atari-dna
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Best thing to use is simply a scratch brush which is a fiberglass pen. It's cheap, and refills are available. I usually put a blade from a Swiss army knife behind the pins and gently scrub them (in the direction of the pin).
They will shine brilliantly. And this takes minutes. Bonus: no fumes!
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Is the game playing blind? Can you get any display in Test Mode? Which version of the monitor do you have, Electrohome or Wells Gardner?
We can talk if over Graham, I have an Asteroids and Asteroids deluxe uprights, so I am a little familiar with these monitors

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Getting back to the relative quality of the boards in VCS/2600 models, specifically with regard to 4-switch models, I've removed and replaced a difficulty switch on my Rev. 14 4-switch unit without a single problem. For such a "low quality" board, it was easy as can be do simply remove the solder around each prong on the switch and remove it, then install another one.
The switches are very easy to remove, with proper flux and heat. Thus far, I've not had any difficulty removing them from 4 or 6 switch units. They're a *lot* easier to disassemble and clean when not attached to the PCB. I'd only remove them if they are obviously dirty and their functionality is poor. Otherwise, as DrVenkman says, shooting them with some CRC contact cleaner and swabbing in a drop of dielectric grease is good maintenance protocol.
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I had to replace the selector switch since the spring underneath broke. I would love to reinstall the original switch if I can fix it. Anyone know where i can get a replacement spring for it?
Which type of spring did you have? I've seen two types, there is a V shaped "scissor" type spring, which protrudes from the bottom of the switch or a coiled spring that is completely enclosed in the switch. The V type are older I think.
I've never found a replacement source for either, but you can get light gauge wire from a hobby shop and craft your own replacements

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The cart connector is screwed onto the guide from underneath. You have to drill out the rivets, cut the long metal terminals, unscrew it from the guide, then put new one on the guide. I always cut the pins and desolder them later as individuals. This leads to less chance of damage to the traces on the board.
Zylon,
Do you have any photographs of the cart connector apparatus removed from the board? If so that would help me better visualize (although your description is clear). Does BEST have the replacement connectors?
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2W, 68ohm 5% Carbon Composition resistor. Value likely to have drifted in 30 years.
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MPU could simply be shot. Screen is solid black at power up?
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Krud Kutter is an excellent degreaser & cleaner which is bio degradable, has no harsh phosphates and is made in the US. It works wonders.
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One of your optical sensors may be blocked or dirty (or faulty). See how it plays after a clean out, then we can go from there.
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I disagree. I refurbished both my CX52s with foil tape, and they still work perfectly two years later. I use them quite regularly too. The adhesive on that tape is very strong, and should work for a very long time. If you have a harbor freight tools near you they sell it very cheaply, and you'll probably find a lot of other uses for it around the house.
It's true, this tape is robust. The 3M adhesive has not disappointed me, more than 2 years on now from the first controller overhauls I've done.
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I'm in too. I'll nominate Defender and Space Invaders
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I wasn't able to play this round, too much travel. Turns out I have a cartridge of 007 in my stash though, so I'll be acquainting myself with it for next time

darthkur, well done-- amazing score
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One (of several) heavy 6 units I own, purchased on eBay, probably 10 or 11 years ago:
NTSC/PAL/Sears/Special: NTSC
Serial #: 62897FMFG Location: Sunnyvale, CA(Owner/AA Member): atari-dna, Glen Allen, VA, USAA/B Channel Slot (Yes/No): YesA/B Channel Switch (Yes/No): NoFunctional (Yes/No): Yes, 100% no modifications or upgrades, brilliant pictureNotes: CO10462 Rev. 5 switchboard, Green Ribbon Connector-
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Interesting. Pretty late Serial Number. When were the 2800s produced? 1983?
Probably just an oversight. Neat anomaly though, thanks for posting!
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Galaga
in Atari 5200
I share the desire to see what could have been done on the 5200 platform although I'm kind of glad it remains vaporware. Not sure the demands of all that rapid movement; the swarm ebb, the diving fighters, spinning ships, rapid fire, tractor beams and the fluid movement of challenging stages would have translated well. Having said that, I wouldn't have guessed Xevious could have been so thoroughly well translated.
Would like to see AA issue Xevious and the home-brew community embrace the challenge of Galaga on the 5200
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Q6 certainly sounds warm from your description, Q7 is too I would imagine. Are your resistors at R57, 58 Metal Oxide 330 Ω ? That would be the correct value.
What do the outputs of your Voltage regulators read on the multimeter?
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Cool. Keep us posted
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Will be playing some Ms Pac, missed last round due to travel. Great looking scores guys!
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I'm liking them, if they get perfected I'd be interested in purchasing a few for some of mine that are missing.
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Love me some Miniature Golf! It's kind of funny that people seem to either really like it, or they just don't get it at all.
I like Miniature Golf a lot too, it's always a stand out favorite at get togethers also. Much more challenging 5 beers in....
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Very informative thread gentlemen, thank you

Heavy sixer: weird score display in Missile Command
in Hardware
Posted
I've replaced these buffers before, using the 4050BE chip. It's an equivalent replacement.