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atari-dna

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Posts posted by atari-dna

  4. Posted · Edited by atari-dna

    Not necessarily, since each factory would need to have an independent count. There is no way they could know what the production number was on at one factory when they were cranking them out at another. So EP's number would be completely independent of SV, or AT for that matter. At least that's what I assume.

     

    I guess they *could* keep track of the total production number if the factories ran at independent time shifts, and passed along the last number at the end of each shift. But that seems unlikely,

    I think they certainly could have been sophisticated enough to track numbers across plants, but it does seem like an unnecessary complication, and more costly.

    It would be definitive to see a repeated serial number with a different date/plant code, but I'm fairly certain this is unlikely as evidenced by some very close numbers with different plant codes.

  5. Posted

    Posted the serial #s of my two 5200s on the serial number thread.. they are very close in number, but different factories, proving I think that each factory had it's own independent count. Of course the real proof would be to find identical #s with a different factory/date code.

     

    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/171005-5200-serial-number-thread/?p=3304147

     

    And with the EP-084 serial number posted by the OP, I'd say that the "yearly reset" of the numbers also must be true.

     

    We could probably even figure out when production ramped up or down at each factory... or phased out as Atari was dying. This is fun!

    I agree, and this is the guess I'm making as well, there were resets each calendar year. Each production facility probably ran independently (why would 3 plants coordinate serial numbers? What a hassle) so each facility's count was likely independent of the others. With date codes added there would always be a unique number without repeats. This seems logical, for Atari could track the unit production numbers year to year and know which plants produced X number of consoles.

    This explains why some numbers are very close, but have different date codes, the counters were simply reset in January. Their fiscal years were probably aligned with the calendar year.

  7. Posted

    In the 5200 serial number thread, it's been discussed, and I do think that is indeed a date code:

     

    EP = El Paso, SV = Sunnyvale, AT = Atari Taiwan.

     

    First 2 digits of the number is the week, and last digit is the year.

     

    So EP-084 is manufactured in El Paso the 8th week of 1984.

     

    You'll most often see 3 or 4 as the last digit, but there are some with 2 and a high week number.

    I agree, and this is why I think the counts were reset when the years changed, these two units have very close serials but are a year apart and one is a 4-port. They must have dialed back to the starting point when entering a new calendar year

  8. Posted · Edited by atari-dna

    I think they are Styrene capacitors, very inexpensive and easily replaced. Make sure your audio adjustment isnt broken or loose as well, the tall red cylinder on the motherboard under the hole in the top shielding. If damaged or improperly adjusted that can cause audio issues too.

  10. Posted · Edited by atari-dna

    It's not going to damage your unit, the Atari is only going to draw 500 milliamps. Just because the Power Supply is rated at 18V doesn't mean that's what gets sent to the system, this is a theoretical maximum. Your Atari isn't going to see more than +5V (if your voltage regulator is working properly) because it (the load) is only going to demand 500 milliamps, which is going to put about 9V on the input of your voltage regulator.

     

    You can check this...

     

    With the unit on, and your multimeter set to DC Volts (at the lowest rating, like 20 or lower if not auto sensing) put your black lead on the regulator's middle leg (common gate) and the red lead on the output, leg 3, which is on the right side if you're looking directly at the part from the front. Output should read +5V dead on. The input leg (leg 1, opposite on the left side) should read right about 9 V if everything is functioning correctly.

     

    Be CAREFUL not to short the legs with your leads as you are doing this as you will do harm to the regulator.

     

    The picture could be refined by small adjustments to the RF modulator as described above, and as Oge has said, the decoupling capacitors. Possibly the styrene caps in the audio circuit also. There is an audio inductor that needs to be at the correct frequency as well, this is adjustable also, with a small hex wrench. The vertical red inductor, highlighted in your picture below. Slowly turn this and see if you can dial in good, clear audio. Your styrene caps are circled as well, they look fine though.

     

    post-26843-0-94348600-1439851850_thumb.png

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    Hi,

    the cable is fine, I've used it with a NES and is working. Also I've used another cable and the problem persist. The meter shows 0.

    Thank you for your help, very appreciated.

    Have you tried adjusting the RF modulator? There is a slug in there you can wind in clockwise and counterclockwise directions, but do not over tighten, it should move with very little resistance. If you have a hex key about 5/32 (don't remember exactly but it is small) then you can tweak the frequency slightly and see if you can dial in your picture. If none of your chips feel hot (especially TIA) then it might be the RF is out of sync. It's a cuddly adjustment, particularly if your hex wrench is metallic, but it won't hurt to try.

  14. Posted

    Wow! I'm a casual reader of both those forums, I can't believe I never stumbled on either of those posts! Thanks for posting them here!

     

    Coleco's current IP holder has mentioned re releasing the tabletops in some form, at the worst providing a new source of cases for mods so originals don't need to be sacrificed.

    I've heard there are plans to resurrect the previously undeveloped / unreleased Berzerk tabletop mini, as well

  15. Posted · Edited by atari-dna

    Try this, remove the RF cable from your TV and also from the Atari. Set your multimeter to Ohms scale and put one lead on each end of the cable. You should have virtually no resistance, if it's high (above 3 or 4 Ω) that is a problem. The cable could be shorted internally and be a factor in your corrupted video.

     

    What's your reading?

  17. Posted

     

    I'm fairly confident that AT = Atari Taiwan, as every Atari unit I've owned that has "AT" in the serial has also said "Made in Taiwan" somewhere else on the packaging/shell/motherboard.

    Agree. I've never noticed any disclaimers for "Made In Ireland" on any of the home consumer stuff either ;)

  22. Posted

    Your RF cable is damaged and likely shorted. Do you have a multimeter to check continuity? This will involve taking the console apart which will require a special screwdriver. Some Pongs use square headed screws and some use Holt tri-head screws. More info about the Tri-head and a home brew tool solution can be found in the following thread: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/208849-holt-security-screw-removal-sears-pong-sega-ea-carts/page-1?do=findComment&comment=2696026

    Keep us posted on your progress, it can be revived!

    If you want to ship it, I can get her working for a reasonable price. Send me a PM if interested.

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