marquisor

which means?

Might & Magic 1+2 1: http://www.lemon64.c...ils.php?ID=1675 2: http://www.lemon64.c...ils.php?ID=1676 Wizardry series - http://www.lemon64.c...ils.php?ID=4163 Maniac Mansion - http://www.lemon64.c...ils.php?ID=1591 Defender Of The Crown - http://www.lemon64.c...ails.php?ID=661 King's Bounty - http://www.lemon64.c...ils.php?ID=1441 Street Rod - http://www.lemon64.c...ils.php?ID=2501 Street Sports Basketball - http://www.lemon64.c...ils.php?ID=2503 what's up with this games on Atari 800? remakes? conversions? 1:1 would LOVE it!! any WIPs? infos? considerations? money needed?

hi trrb, thx, but i want the graphics version of JOD, cracked! disk saving would be appreciated.

well... after installing and testing with a PC style power supply which gives me 5,10V / 11,90V directly connected to QP7 and QP8 output gives similar results... after 2hrs now the first read errors start... WTF i don't think it's the rectifier, doubler, regulator issue then?! because the capacitors etc. aren't needed / used anymore for supplying 5V/12V by my workaround... maybe the module (or any other IC) gets too hot? but switching off for 5 mins doesn't work. damn maybe it's not a power problem? i'm at loss...

god damn it. yes... measured the solder spot NEAR the TP14, but not TP14... well... same here 0 Ohms and same voltage as on output... so far.. dang... better remeasure it all? but why. 0 Ohms... running and not running. now got another power supply directly attached to QP7/QP8 output 5V/12V from external SCSI HDD Drive case. bootup fine... disk operation normal.. i'll see if that works. should be near enough power, as harddisks need 30-40W for spinup.

on both drives? the working one's circuitry also has only 3,xxV there. but in the schematics it's true. straight 12V from output to TP14... C65 (can't read exactly, damn lores blurry pdf i got, but C63 is elsewhere) and C70 is on the way. funny thing: on the another, working 1050 without mods it's nearly the same voltage..

ok here's what i've done so far. got the 1050 service manual and focused a bit on the power issue topic... well the results are not satisfactory. took 2h of testing with open drive case. Voltage measured Time TP13 TP14 QP7 QP8 Remark 0:00 4,85 3,42 4,86 11,93 0:06 4,84 0,10 4,85 12,01 1 0:10 4,85 3,33 4,85 11,98 0:20 4,84 3,31 4,85 11,98 0:30 4,84 3,30 4,84 12,00 2 0:38 no results, but no failure 0:55 no results, but no failure 0:60 4,85 3,30 4,85 11,97 3 1:30 4,85 3,30 4,85 11,98 3 2:00 4,84 3,29 4,85 11,98 2,4 2:03 4,84 0,10 4,85 12,03 4,5 2:05 4,85 0,10 4,85 12,03 4,5 2:10 while running TDOS 2.1 DiskCopy reading after formatting, loading, copying, running MyDOS now not used, drive only let turned on (idle) failure starts, some read errors get more and more while access/retry to read measurements done with - on heatplate, + on TP13, TP14, right pins of QP7 and QP8. the "no results" come from simple tests displaying directory twice etc. and no measurement because i was doing other stuff. so the voltage at TP14 is strange.. the voltage regulators seem to be ok. seem... can anybody confirm any low voltage at TP14? especially CharlieChaplin with same issue? measurements on a working circuit board only, no mechanics attached: TP13 5,01V ; TP14 3,22V ; QP7 5,01V ; QP8 12,20V but this drive is working fine even after 12hrs. unmodified, no turbo. what now?

as i got used to SID for 30 years. as i got the atari 800 2-3 years ago i love the POKEY. can't hear that SID tunes anymore... only sometimes for some good stuff.. but always the same sound. C64 with POKEY would be the best machine ^^ as i like the graphics programming on C64 more than on atari... but didn't get deeper into it yet, so have to wait and see. SID sounds so quaky... POKEY has more bass... would be a subjective illustration. some POKEYlike SID tunes are imho Enduro Racer and Red Max. regarding features and sound, POKEY and SID in ONE machine would make play the POKEY the basslines and some highlights, and SID the melodic parts. would be nice to have them togetheer... wait there's midi??? humm....

got two 9V/3A power supplies here. i would exclude them from being defective. btw what do you mean by 5/12v the power supply does 9V/3A.. so you mean 9V AC -> 5/12V DC gets converted inside the drive. and this capacitors you mean? the large 3 near the heat plate? good idea to measure the voltage and maybe usage of PC power supply is a good consideration for testing purpose. should produce enough wattage / current. would have to know where to "inject" these voltages and if i would have to cut something for it? you don't think the voltage regulators are weak? i don't know if a voltage regulator would die instantly or getting weaker like capacitors. well ... i'll have a look. thx EDIT: some typos, misunderstandings..

hmm, somehow good to know i'm not alone with this. who could help us with that? i don't want to use spare parts from my working drive or set it up with turbo and then get the same issues. it's just a feeling but maybe the voltage stabilizers/regulators can't match any higher current usage? for a longer time? i'm not a electrician, just a suspicion. as the heat plate is warmer than in my working drive. thx for the tools btw, may come in handy

next problem: all stuff is working so far UNTIL so it seems the drive has been longer running/turned on. didn't measure the time, would say working 15-30 mins with the drive it then gets read errors, stops reading, booting, recognizing any disk. even the track seek movement if a before working disk or new disk or whatever disk is inserted is different from normal working drive then. it doesn't seek the same way as if everything was normal. turning the drive off/on for half a minute doesn't help. the mechanic is ok, tested in another circuit board without any mods (turbo) and working for hours just fine. maybe a heat issue? or power supply? i don't think it's the FDC.

partly solved: (maybe helpful) i had to format a disk to single density on a working disk drive BEFORE using the RPM tool. IMPORTANT! and insert it while adjusting RPM in the 1050 turbo RPM tool. the RPM was out of adjustment.. so i fixed it. by pressing select you can switch between lower and higher RPMs. now i have to create a turbo masterdisk. but that's another hassle as far as i can see for now... crawling through spartados manual which seems only support US Doubler drives. 1050 Turbo should as well support any new copied dos disk without any modification, cause its ROM writes the sectors in another interleave automatically. if enabled at boottime of course. and if i understand it correct.

if i want to restore my saved game the lenslok copy protection shows up and i have to enter the right code. so this might not be a cracked version. any other version around?

i'm also very excited and interested in as Creature XL said: used this for C64 development for playing around a bit, even with seuck stuff and so on. looking forward to get similar stuff for the A8. Commodore has csdb for many many stuff ... what about A8? something similar database? was crawling the web for a copy of ataritools-800 but no luck so far. wrote an email to the author. at least used the contact form for a request

little update: i started over but this time with a new diskette and SIO2PC V4.19, mounted the jewels.atr as disk 2, booted MyCopyR! 2.1 from real disk drive 1, put new disk in drive 1 and copied the disk 2 -> 1. first try, everthing works! hooray! bad thing is it doesn't support long file names

ok thx for the quick info. barebone. what diskcopy tools are good alternatives for mycopyr2.1? i.e. autoskip for not used sectors etc. got jewels of darkness here now from fandal.cz and i copied it now 15 times, different disks, verification on, formatting on. gave up. hangs on the same title screen. booting directly from pc via sio2pc and ape works fine. so there must be something wrong with the copy program i believe.

can't get it to run on real 1050... what's wrong? every other game runs so far. it hangs at: "Welcome to Collossal Adventure, the first of" <snip> that's it. a pixel of starting gfx is sometimes there, sometimes not. and then it hangs. :-( btw. same problem with "non-cracked"... maybe it's not the lenslock stuff?

any success here? i'm looking for a crack for jewels of darkness. i have the original tapes, but not the lenslock device anymore. :-(

ok i'll try that. another question with mypicodos, i got the archive from the author's website and it contains more than one .atr file. ok so the readme says: The standalone .COM version and the directly bootable ATR files are available in 5 configurations: - barebone (mypdosb.atr/MYPDOSB.COM) - no remote console, highspeed auto (mypdos.atr/MYPDOS.COM) - no remote console, highspeed off (mypdosn.atr/MYPDOSN.COM) - remote console, highspeed auto (mypdosr.atr/MYPDOSR.COM), - remote console, highspeed off (mypdosrn.atr/MYPDOSRN.COM). what does that mean? what would i use best then? what is a remote console? *confused* to be continued: The initializer is avaliable in 4 versions: - default, without atariserver remote console (MYINIT.COM) - with atariserver remote console (MYINITR.COM) - special SDrive version (MYINITS.COM) - barebone (MYINITB.COM) i guess i'll take the barebone? what's sdrive?

ok good to know, that mypicodos would be best and the dir2atr sounds good too, so i can create a whole .atr and only write it down on real disk. but... what about the 1120 sectors in ape knights orc issue? mycopyr2.1 only reads 720 sectors to copy. booting the game works, but then it says disk error, insert game disk. it's an ingame message. for sure missing sectors. EDIT: ok tested with another game .atr with proper 1040 sectors. 130kB. mycopyr2.1 displays 1050 density booted on 1050 works.

mypicodos sounds good. after investigation on the forum here, i also found another tool named Fenders 3 Sector File Load Menu Maker.atr. i think that's it for me. for now i'm looking for a decent diskcopy program. tried so far the mycopier 2.1, sparta and mydos disk duplicate stuff. which works more or less good. copier2.1 is best so far. BUT it cannot handle disks with more than 720 sectors (0x2D0). got a game here, knight orc. has 1120 sectors (0x460). looking for a program to put this on disk. where can i setup the sectors to copy? also tried a highspeed duplicator tool, but limited to 0x2D0 (720 sectors) also. 1120 might be a proprietary format only usable with sio2pc, but i read of ED enhanced density which could handle 1040 sectors? the above copy programs don't seem to handle that correctly? got a 1050 floppy here, i'm sure to handle at least ED with. unmodified though, dunno about DD. so, what diskcopy would you recommend?

i've got a max232 cable here. is it true, that it only works with RI setting in winape? and the transfer is very likely to get instable, mostly after using disk duplication software and go back to DOS. or is there something wrong with my cable? it looks like the schematic big gif w/o the leds on a rasterboard. only some cables and diodes. bought on ebay in a atari 800 XL package.

hello there! got my 1050 back running with sio2pc and winape so far. off the new users topic got some files and stuff to try and it works. now how could i create custom disks with more than one game on it? how can i see if a game would run as (known from c64) onefiler? do you use or recommend a special DOS for it? or file copier? how should i start? thx

yo i think it's the same engine as the standalone. btw: found some musicdisks in this demo section: http://atari.fandal.cz/demos.php?name=M&butt_details_x=&from=100

Short update: ASAP is the best player for windows, thx for the recommendation. For the player on real machine, SAPEmu got updated on 01-18-11 to 0.2. Tested it all in Emulator Atari800, even with XE (128 kB) it does not run (under MyDOS 4.53). Not enough memory. So it's pretty uninteresting for me (yet), pity. Still looking for music disks (compilations) though!