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x=usr(1536)

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x=usr(1536) last won the day on November 22 2020

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About x=usr(1536)

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    913 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90015

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  1. As a fellow stock 600XL owner, I'm waiting for that one as well. Having said that, there is the 2-chip mod to bump it up to 64K. That's likely your best route to pseudo-800XL-dom
  2. Given that only the Start button is worn down, that suggests that it was always a 16K-with-cassette-drive machine. It's absolutely none of my business to tell you what to do with it. Having said that, if you have another A8 that can do the 64K duties, I'd suggest keeping this one stock. While I've no objection to making that particular machine more usable, there's also something to be said for keeping it original - especially given how many have had 64K upgrades.
  3. I ran a US-model 1050 on 240VAC at 50Hz for years (including with either a Happy or US Doubler mod; can't remember which one) with just a PSU swap. Worked fine. If there were issues that could have been attributed to the differences between 50Hz and 60Hz, I can't say for certain that I ever ran into them.
  4. Found a copy. No idea if it's salvageable or not yet, but will find out soon-ish.
  5. While I'm waiting for my Kryoflux to get here (which could take 3 or 4 months), I'd like to take a shot a copying something that isn't currently dumped / imaged - the disk version of KoalaPainter that was a flippy disk with the C64 version on the other side. My goal (assuming that the disk I received is readable) is to create an .ATR image of the A8 side. What I have to work with is a 256K 800XL, 1050 disk drive (likely in need of cleaning, alignment, and speed adjustment), and a Fujinet. Between the three of these, the hardware side is pretty much taken care of. What's not clear to me is which disk copier to start with. It's been 30-plus years since I tried doing this on an A8, and I just have no clue as to what would be best to use. Obviously the 1050 needs to be sorted out first, but given that it was a) recognised as D2: by the OS and b) almost succeeded in formatting a blank disk (error 173, so am hopeful that it was just a bad disk), it looks as though there's a decent chance that it may be usable for creating a disk image. Haven't stuck the KoalaPainter disk in yet because I'd just rather not risk damaging it unnecessarily.
  6. Digging through some storage bins I haven't looked in in years, I ran across a boxed Z-80 Plus card with Apple CP/M disks and manual; Applied Engineering was the card manufacturer. This is a 'ran when parked' situation: the card and disks worked in the last Apple //e that I owned - in 2004. They've been sitting for 17 years. Granted, they were stored in a light-tight plastic storage bin in a climate-controlled environment for that entire time, but I can't provide any guarantee as to functionality. I no longer have any Apple ][ machines so cannot test. However, I would like to find a good home for this set. If interested, please indicate below. Will do my best to get photos posted over the weekend.
  7. Agreed. It'll be interesting to see how long this lasts for the either the EU or UK; despite eBay et. al. having signed on as VAT collectors, there are a ton of businesses that haven't. This may end up being one of those things where either compliance is too low for it to matter, the cost of administering it outweighs the benefits, or both. One can hope that it all quietly goes away after that and is not replaced by something even more idiotic, but as we are talking about government here...
  8. Every Haynes manual is based on a complete teardown and rebuild. Of course, the teardown and rebuild will not be of the exact model you're trying to work on
  9. Nope, you're right and I was completely wrong about that Pretty much
  10. There's nothing to figure out - it's 'myatari'. He's had that account for probably 20 years if not longer.
  11. Speaking as someone with something of an interest in Soviet- and post-Soviet-era Russian computers, I'd be all over this if it wasn't for the two empty sockets. The seller mentions that caps were scavenged from the board, and those can be fairly easily replaced with close-enough substitutes. But the missing CPU (which was almost certainly a Soviet Z80 clone, and probably not 100% Z80-compatible) along with whatever's meant to go in the other smaller socket mean 'good luck'. Given the time and place of its birth, I really do have to give whoever put that together credit. It's rough and ready, sure, but if it worked, I can't really fault it too much.
  12. Years ago, I was given a 1050 that was said to be fully-working. My own stupidity caused me to never find out if that was the case or not, however. With it plugged in and resting on a table, I happened to nudge the drive and heard something rattle around inside. Without thinking, I picked it up at an angle, an action that was shortly followed by loud bangs and the smell of caps releasing their goo. Opening it up revealed two things: a loose case screw and a pair of shorted main caps on the power supply circuit. The caps were replaced but it never worked properly after that, so it hung around for a while as a source of parts before being passed on to its next owner.
  13. I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that the EPROM down at the bottom with '32' written on it may be a copy of Atari's 32-in-1 cartridge. If not an exact copy, it may be something similar but with different games. @ChaoticBiker: I realise it's a pain to cycle through the games, but if you have a few minutes would you mind counting how many are built-in?
  14. Finally got around to fixing the 'I' key on the 1200XL. The plunger had snapped off, leaving half of itself inside the keycap and losing the top spring in the process. Tore down the keyboard, replaced the plunger, drilled and picked the broken part out of the keycap, and reassembled the lot. Going to have to open it up again to do the mylar, but at least my OCD attention to detail is now satisfied.
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