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GameGeezer

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About GameGeezer

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  1. I have to say... Wow. I was never aware of this, and it would have been fun to have when I had a /// to run it. It's shocking to see anything on the /// that used its colour capabilities, much less a game on it.
  2. Not a problem. I apologise for taking so long to respond again, but there were a large number of periodicals in boxes to go through to check for the date, from a list of publishers. :/ I do have some other mags from > 1985, but not from that publication. One thing to note though, is that Call A.P.P.L.E still exist, and they may have an historic archive version of their publication on file.
  3. Why not keep them all? I may be interested in the /// as mine was stolen, should you decide to part with it, although bringing it up to the specs of my former system would be near to impossible. I'd be curious to see what you have. If you want to trade or sell anything, send a PM to me. Likewise, if you need help or support, feel free to do the same.
  4. It seems that I do not have issues for the publication past '85, but if I come across any, I will let you know.
  5. The PLD0 button is what you want to read. Your connection for the action button should be between +5VDC and PDL 0, iirc. I use real Apple joysticks, and I doubt that you will be in love with this as an alt, as the Apple tend to desire analogue inputs.
  6. Ths is easy. Mae a flat metal panel and attach a female USB port to it. Tap two holes into it to fit either the DE9 or DB25 port holes. Connect a cable from the female port to your card. Mount.
  7. That system has been on eBay or over a year. GL to the seller, but I would rather hand build an Apple 1 for 900 USD than pay 1.5M USD for one.
  8. CH models and Apple models are my preferences. If you buy an Apple model with orange buttons, they tend to have bad switches that you will need replace, but platinum models are more sturdy and less prone to this issue.
  9. Ir is very possible that I have this, but it will be a jolly while ere i can check.
  10. I have one of those, too. Last I recall, it had DOS 3 or 5, with Windows 2.1 on it.
  11. The initial investment was around £800 at the time, which was around US$1000, plus the cost of DOS and software... More, if you need an 8087 maths co-processor. For a typical //gs, you needed the card, a ColourSwitcher, one or (usually) two 5.25 drives (the PCT could work with the Apple 2. drives, IIRC), and a copy of PC-DOS. £230/$400 for two 5.25 drives, or £110/$135 for single drive (not daisy-chain). £40/$50 for //gs Kit with ColourSwitch £180/$230 for 8087 chip £550/$700 for PCT with 768K IBM PC-DOS 3.3, IIRC, was around £125 as a standalone product, and then you still need software to run on it. In 1988, a complete 8086 PC might cost about the same, or a tad more, so this wasn't a bad price, but in reality, in 1988, the i386 machines were out, and the 8086 hardware was simply already outdated. Note that for roughly 50% more, you also had expansion. Of course, it all depended on your needs. If your only need was to run WordStar, then this worked just fine. For about double the price, you could buy an IBM PS/2 Model 30, with a 20MB HDD. I still have at least one of our old Model 30s. I have been meaning to set up the IBM hardware, but I need to make a second computer room for it, or radically re-configure my current computer room to add space for these machines.
  12. I expect that he means 5.25 diskettes. Aye, there exists a schematic to use them, but as I cannot attest to its reliability, I also won't post it. AE expected you to buy their kit. I can try to document an actual AE drive, but it won't be any time soon.
  13. It was due to ROM space to store the additional game code, including conveyors and moving ladders, and issues with bankswitching tiles. The best home conversions of the era were for the ADAM and C64, if you wanted all levels and the intro. At least the 7800 and NES versions use the JP level, order.
  14. I'd be interested in both Galaga for the 5200 and an enhanced 7800 version.
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