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  1. Thank heavens they made a 400 or I'd would have never had the chance to get involved in computers in 1981. The Atari 400 with 16K RAM, BASIC cartridge and a 410 was down to $400. The 800 and Apple II were way out of the price my dad would entertain. The Atari 400 with 16K was the first "really useful" home computer that was also "really affordable". With 16K, you had a machine that could do meaningful work. I was introduced to computing in high school which had a computer lab (1980) that had Apple IIs. I might have lost my interest in computers (I was a senior) and moved on to something else. I probably would be doing something else right now. I'm an aerospace engineer and I like to think my 400 had something to do with that. The 400 made it possible for this American middle class kid to own a real computer in 1981.
  2. I received my Hercules-Workshop cable today and it appears to have a very nice build quality. I tried it on one of my 1200XLs with a ClearPic2002 video mod on my 2009 46" Samsung using the Hercules-Workshop and 8-bit Classics s-video cables. I purchased the Hercules-Workshop cable because of the reviews and the technical explanation that a double shielded Y/C would eliminate the jail bars. So, for me, with my setup, both cables produce the exact same picture. Both have jail bars and I really can not tell any difference in picture. This is my result and it could be due to other factors other than the cables themselves. For me, no change.
  3. Which computer does this? Would a 1200XL with ClearPic2002 have this issue?
  4. Does the 3.5mm jack have both Left and right audio? I know the Atari is only mono, but do you have to buy a stereo male 3.5mm to dual RCA?
  5. If its just adhesive, you could try heat. If you get it hot enough, the glue might get soft enough to gently pry off without bending. I've done this to get rid of the car dealer badge they stick on the tail of new cars. It's on pretty good, but I heated it up and it came off without too much effort. Needed to use 91% rubbing alcohol to get the goo off.
  6. Also, I noticed you're using the 27128 which if I'm not mistaken is a 16Kx8 (16 EPROM). Possible theory: Did you burn the top 8K and Bottom 8K of each chip with a same data? If not, the high bit (pin 26) maybe floating and its looking for the 8K of the EPROM you left blank. This can be solved by burning the 8K data on U12 to 0000-1FFF and then repeat the same data on U12 onto 2000-3FFF. That way if pin 26 is floating, it reads the same data regardless whether its looking at the top or bottom 8K. Do the same for U13. Also, simply using a 2764 (8K x 8 ) would avoid the issue altogether. Your also in a position to burn 1200 XL rev 11 on U12 on 000-1FFF and burn an additional OS like 800XL on U12 from 2000-3FFF. Do the same for U13. When you plug them in, bend up pin 26 on both U12 and U13 so it does not go into the socket. solder a wire from pin 26 U12 to pin 26 U13. Then solder a wire from pin 26 U12 to the center post of the RF channel 3-4 selector. Now you have two operating systems that are selectable by using the RF channel 3-4 switch that is already there.
  7. The -25 means 250 ns. I've had much luck using -12 or 120 ns EPROMs. Don't know if the speed matters since the 1200XL will run with 300 ns RAM. Do you have a 2764 from another manufacturer that you can try?
  8. The cheapest solution is the Retro-bits adapter cable if you can find them. I don't think they are produced anymore, but StoneAge Gamer may still have them. It only works on CX-40 type joysticks and wont work on paddle controllers. If you want it for CX-30 paddles, I'd suggest the excellent 2600-Daptor II which does pretty much every Atari controller.
  9. 1) Make sure you haven't inadvertently got some solder touching the pads on W7-13 that is not supposed to be there (continuity on adjacent pads that shouldn't). I say shouldn't because I believe there are a few that are supposed to be like that. Basically make sure you clean up any solder splash on the pads. I did that once and had a no boot issue. 2) What is the speed of your EPROMs? Is it 150, 200 or 300 ns? I have upgraded many 1200XLs with EPROMs with Rev 11 and found a few motherboards that just don't like them. Not many, but 1 out of every 8 attempts I find that a particular motherboard just won't boot off EPROMs consistently. Have no clue why some are picky about it. I can have a failed attempt one one board, put the very same EPROMs on another board and it works great. If it fails, I've tried another set of EPROMs and it will also consistently fail to boot. Let me correct myself by using the word "fail". By fail I mean either it boots inconsistently or will just never boot. The ones that are inconsistent, usually work if I allow sufficient time between power cycles. If I turn it off and on again within a second, it might fail, but if I pause with it off for 5 seconds before cycling power, it works. That being said, the mass majority of times I've tried this upgrade it works 100% first and every try. Again, have no clue why a few are picky about EPROMs. Try a different brand of EPROM if you have them.
  10. And then there were three. At one point, I had no less than seven complete 1200XLs and a few spare mobos and keyboards. I've always understood that I have way too much stuff, but they were accumulated over the span of seven years. I never intended to have so many and I finally did something about it. I sold off two a year ago, sold off the mobos and keyboards, and in July, I sold two more complete units. So now I am back down to three really nice units. Still, more than a lifetimes supply. Also in the process of selling off surplus other items that I simple have too much off. They were just going to sit in a box in the closet and at least now, someone else will get to enjoy them. Sold these two units this month: USA 1983 12 21-Mar-83 83S DA 051855 123 USA 1983 15 11-Apr-83 83S DA 008463 153 I will admit that much of the fun is finding, procuring and fixing these machines. Life is busy and I just don't have the time right now. I could no longer justify holding on to all that hardware knowing it will sit there as essentially dead weight on a shelf. I'm selling off stuff, but I'm losing nothing and gaining a decent portion of a closet back. Feels good.
  11. Beat me to it. Buried Bucks was the first thing that came to mind. Actually a really fun game.
  12. Just to add to the discussion, I also give the SIO2SD the edge due to potential reliability long term. The SIO2SD is simpler while the SRIVE MAX has a LCD touch screen and a more complicated board. Over the course time, will the LCD screen hold up? Same goes for the computer on a board. I imagine that in the next 10 years, there will be much less demand for 8-bit stuff. We aren't exactly being replaced with newer younger members. If you are under 45, you probably have no clue that the Atari 8-bit ever existed. The point is, in 10 years, with demand low, if this thing breaks, can you get it fixed or even procure another? With low demand in the future, Lotharek and others will likely have lost interest and moved on.
  13. Does anyone know the actual weight of the 400/800 CO17945 9VAC, 50W, 3.4amp power brick?
  14. Let me preface this post that I only have experience with the SIO2SD and original SDRIVE (not the MAX). I first started out with acquiring two SDRIVEs and they were wonderful replacements for clunky a 810 and 9VAC power brick. I always felt the menu screen was the weak link on the SDRIVE. You have several files with filenames well in excess of the 8.3 format and those first 8 can have a lot of commonality. The differentiating part of the name usually follows the 8th character. The menu only allows you to see the full name of the file you are currently selecting at the bottom of the screen. Then I bought one of Lotharek's SIO2SDs and never looked back. Nice professionally made units to include very professional case. The menu on monitor is superior to SDRIVE. I can see the full filenames of all files, not just the one I"m highlighting. The LCD display could be better, but it shows more characters than 8. I believe the SDRIVE MAX does not fix this issue. They choose to use the portrait view with large font thus allowing even less discernible characters on the screen (save the bottom line). This is the big flaw I see in the SDRIVE MAX. If the LCD display was used in the landscape mode, it could show the long screen names which would change everything for me. Until they come up with that variant, I prefer the SIO2SD. Boy would it be great if they modified the SIO2SD software to scroll the complete filename across the top line of the LCD display.
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