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ACML

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About ACML

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    Stargunner

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  1. I fully appreciate the supply and demand equilibrium, but $531 is not justified by supply. There are almost always 1-2 1200XLs for sale on eBay at any given time and they typically sell for much less. There was nothing remarkable about this unit and there was a bidding war???
  2. Just when you think you've seen it all, an Atari 1200XL just sold for $531. Nothing special about a computer that routinely sells on eBay for less than half the sale price on this one. What's really puzzling, is that it had 73 bids so many people were bidding it up. What am I missing? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Working-Atari-1200XL-1200-XL-Computer-w-Power-Supply-Joystick-Frogger-Game/363334394554?hash=item54986ae2ba:g:wc0AAOSwVT5gXSSq
  3. I have upgraded many 1200XLs with the ClearPic2002 mod and the S-video is great. I just don't see much if any improvement in composite. The ClearPic2002 makes the RF out no longer operative and I believe the UAV still allows RF out. I've put the UAV in a couple 400's and the picture quality on the S-video is very sharp. Didn't notice the composite. If you're only interested in composite, the ClearPic2002 may not improve the picture much, but the S-video is amazing!
  4. It appears that the Fujinet 1.3 hardware still has a few issues to be sorted out. Is there currently a plan to revise the design (i.e. V1.4) to farther refine this hardware design?
  5. Why is the 1200XL also not a worthwhile exception, reliability speaking. I understand your experience with 800XLs and 130XEs as they were built with absolute cost reduction in mind to compete with the C-64. They are totally different animals than the 1200XL in terms of build quality. I haven't used an 800XL since 1989. My experience and comments are limited to the 400/800 and 1200XL.
  6. My experience with reliability is somewhat different. The 800 has seven boards and the 400 has four. All my hardware issues over the many years, excluding the 1200XL keyboard, have been with 800's and 400's. They won't boot due to oxidation on a card edge, a RAM or ROM chip has gone bad, and my all time favorite, it fries the 9VAC brick due to a short somewhere on the PWR board. I've had at least three 400/800's fry my 9VAC brick due to an issue with the PWR boards. I have yet to need to replace a VLSI chip or any other component for that matter in the many 1200XLs I've had. When I see an eBay listing that says "untested", I am more risk averse about a 400/800 than a 1200XL as to whether it will fire up. The lack of sockets on the 600/800XL line is another story. That's just been my experience. The 1200XL and 1400XL design of one board just eliminates durability issues that a mutli-PCB design has. Also, in almost all cases that I've had to fix a 400/800, pretty much total disassembly was required and it's a lot more involved than the 1200XL's 6 screws on case and six screws on board to bottom case to get to the VLSI components.
  7. The 800 was a masterpiece and way ahead of its time. I've always thought Atari styled it after the IBM Selectric typewriter. Maybe to give the appearance of an office appliance. The 400 architecture, now that's something new. It's sleek, minimal footprint looks like an aerodynamic shape. I do believe that the 1200XL, 1400XL design has the best ever. Single board, fantastic keyboard and the aesthetics are stunning. It just looks sexy and refined as 80's tech goes. It loses the 70's IBM Selectric look and looks like the future. I too wanted a 1450XLD so bad BITD, and was very disappointed when it never came to market. At the time, I had no idea of all the financial trouble Atari was in as I eagerly awaited the 1400XL line to show up. At least we have the 1200XL. The 800 is a tank, seven boards and quality throughout (mechanical keyboard, PCB, components). The 1200/1400XL's one board design provides superior reliability. I loved my 800, but I would have traded it in a second for a 1400XL.
  8. Just had the same thing happen on my 1200XL two days ago. Replaced POKEY and PIA and that did not fix. As a last resort, I blew compress air over the board and under the sockets and "BAM!" it works great. This is the second time I've had this issue on two different machines and both times, compressed air magically made them right. I have no idea why, but it worked twice. Same issue, everything worked, but no boot on SIO. Go figure. I used canned air for electronics. Shop air might have too much static electricity.
  9. I was hoping someone out there figured out a way to run the 400/800 version of Omniview on Jurgen's new 48/52K RAM and OS board. My goal is to put it in my 400 with a UAV and my plan was to use the old RF 3/4 channel selector switch to pick which OS to run. I would use the OSb and on the EPROM I wanted to put Omniview for the 800. Has anyone tried this and if so, do you have the 16K EPROM image to burn on the 27128? This would be an awesome setup.
  10. Here's a personal favorite. If your not going to use the RF channel 3/4 output anymore, try this simple OS upgrade. Image of SIP socket. Just clip off pairs (2 pins per set) and add to end of existing 24 socket to make it a 28 pin socket without having to remove the original 24 pin socket.
  11. Choice of components does matter. I tried using surface mount caps the first time and the image quality was not so good. I switched over to old ceramic caps and the picture looks great.
  12. Are you using S-video output (Y/C)? I always get a really nice sharp image with ClearPic2002. The example almost looks like composite out.
  13. I have accomplished the CLRPIC v128.3 from May 2002 (a.k.a ClearPic2002) on several 1200XLs and find the output to be quite acceptable. You can easily read 80 column (The Last Word) and Omniview. In games, colors are crisp and edges are sharp. The UAV is a bit sharper with 40 column text, but I'm looking at it on a 46" TV, so on a monitor, the difference should be indiscernible.
  14. Can't beat this one for the price $33. OREI RCA/S-Video Composite & HDMI to HDMI 50/60 Hz Multi-System PAL/NTSC Analog to Digital Audio Video Converter - Dual Voltage (XD-901) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UNYX9M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A19VQHYZW00VUY&psc=1 The picture quality is pretty good with no noticeable lag. I like that it has an HDMI input as well, so it's a switch so you don't have to take up two HDMI ports when your TV only has a few.
  15. Assuming you haven't put it all back together, please throw away the tape (#2 in your photo) as it is the culprit of the infamous problem. You don't need it anymore. I assume it was there to ensure contact (extra thickness) between the PCB and mylar. It oxidized over time and viola, no continuity. When you repaint the 9 fingers #3 in photo, make sure all conductive material is same thickness (height). Common first time mistake (been there, done that) is to have one or two fingers thinner than the others so when you reassemble, those fingers don't make good contact. Just make sure the build up of paint on all nine is of uniform height. Tip: I like to use a toothpick to apply BARE conductive paint as it gives great control. If one or two keys still don't work and are common to the same finger terminal point, you may likely find out that you damaged a trace while removing the mylar from the PCB. You can use a multimeter to test for breaks in continuity along a trace to identify where the break is. If the break is under the white silicon spacer material, gently pry it away, lay down the conductive paint to repair break, allow time to dry and lay white spacer back in original spot (again, been there, done that). This conductive paint has some resistance, so even though you may no longer get a "beep" on your multimeter for continuity, it will still work.
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