ACML

Check out this thread: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/236810-inexpensive-s-video-or-composite-to-hdmi-video-up-converter/ I highly recommend the Etekcity s-video to HDMI up-converter.

My solution for audio tape preservation is the Nudmehi Cassette boot maker. It turns any disk executable into a cassette. It's pretty nice. It makes a short binary loader (about 8 beeps of the 410) and immediately starts the actual game load. No worries about analog audio signal degradation or storing huge amounts of cassettes. Need to re-write the game, just load it in Nudmehi and you have a perfect pure digital to analog copy whenever you want one. Nudmehi cass boot maker.xex

If its an EPROM, it has probably succumbed to bit-rot. EPROMs from the 1980's typical had 10 year warranties on data retention, but 25-30 years was the actual norm. All EPROMs leak a very minuscule charge and over 30 years, all you need is one bit to go bad and viola, bit-rot. A lock-up would be a classic symptom of bit-rot. A byte is now errant and the instruction code malfunction call results in a look up (bad instruction). The EPROM you have is still good, just needs to be erased and rewritten. Then your good for another 25-30 years.

For a simple RPM test, try Atari DOS 2.6f. This does requires 1) that you have one drive that can load a file. 2) an SIO2PC like device to copy the ATR. Probably not much help if you don't have the two things above. If you already have an old copy of 2.6f on a floppy, try it. Many forget 2.6f had this feature. Atari DOS 2.6F.ATR

Luckily it is Christmas time. The best money you will spend on your Atari 8-bit is an SIO2SD. No more mechanical 1970's tech issues. I too wanted an 810 a few years agao, just to hear that familiar track seek noise. Got old again very fast. You can still run the real CPU, but go to the SIO2SD for storage and never look back. Stay 8-bit my friends!

What new version of Action??

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I always wondered why there is a hard limit of 48K on the Atari 400/800. Is it that the operating system can't allow more or is it a hardware limitation. A simple OS change to the firmware would fix the software limit I would imagine. I know the 800 can address 32K RAM cards without altering the motherboard, so why can't it access two 32K boards with a different OS? The 800 is possibly my favorite Atari 8-bit or at least tied with the 1200XL, but to me, it has one serious drawback. There are several games that won't run on 48K or the 400/800 OSB. Thirty years ago it used to be the other way around. The XL was plagued with compatibility issues and the 400/800 OSB was preferred. Yes, I know about Incognito, but you can't buy them anymore.

Here is an XL friendly version. Demon Attack.xex

You are correct, its 18. The 400 has 22 because it has to have the 4 function keys on the ribbon as well. That is exactly what I need to fix this keyboard. I'll PM you.

I have a NOS Stackpole keyboard for the Atari 800. The problem is that the ribbon cable (22 lines) and connector that attaches to the motherboard was made of some awful metal that cold works to failure in only a few bends. Keeps making intermittent continuity at various pins. A horrible design to say the least. By chance, does anyone have one of these 22 line spare ribbon cables with the in-line connector. Right now I have a NOS keyboard that is worthless. And by the way, anyone have a spare ATARI 800 door sticker?

Thanks, I'll try this next.

Black right from the get go. No blue screen. Can't see any signs of damage on the motherboard.

I have an 800 that powers on, but only gets a black screen. What ICs on the motherboard can fail and cause this symptom? What I know: 1) The PWR board is good 2) The OS board is good 3) The CPU/ANTIC/GTIA board is good 4) The RAM board is good It has to be something on the motherboard. The 40 pin IC on the motherboard, is that a PIA? Could a bad one cause this? What about the other IC's? Thanks in advance!

Panos, Any chance you'd consider making a run of SIO2SD? I'd order three. Don't mean to hijack the thread, but the community needs an SIO2SD option that doesn't cost $130 with shipping.

If you are running just composite video or if you're still going through the RF channel 3, it will look no better. You need to be using the Y/C, separate (Chroma & Luma) or also called s-video and it should look amazing. See link below for a high quality 8-bit monitor cable. They're $11,99. https://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html

Just thought I'd revisit the subject now that I have a little more experience working with and restoring 800 keyboards. I definitely have my preference after fixing several. 1) The best keyboard in my opinion for the 800 is the Mitsumi. It was made by the same company that made the 1200XL keyboards and they have the same feel. They are smooth, quite and the most serviceable. The Mylar conductive tape will have to be removed and you have to rebuild the 9 or so terminal traces with conductive paint. 2) Second on my preference is the Hi-Tek (white plungers). A very good mechanical keyboard, but has a major flaw. The spacebar will eventually fail and the repair can be straight forward or a pain in the ass. Has a mechanical noise not present in the Mitsumi. 3) Third, only because I can't make it tenth, is the Stack Pole (yellow plungers). Garbage, plain and simple. Stay away from these. The yellow plungers always crack, even if not used. Yes, NOS Stackpoles will have cracked plungers. It causes the key caps to fall off. Plus the ribbon cable is horrendous. It will cold work itself in just a few bends and break, lose continuity. A major pain to fix once the ribbon leads start cold working. I hate these keyboards with a passion. Bought one brand new from Best and it failed after trying to install it a couple times (ribbon cold working failure). Not Best's fault, Brad just sells them. It's the only ones you can get now NOS.

Just realized I had some versions of Pacman that may not be out in general circulation. Pacman Fast Freeze is the cart version that freezes the ghosts or speeds them up. Pacman Intro is the cart version with the arcade introduction. Pacman Show is the cart version with the arcade intermissions. I got these in the early 80's. Enjoy Pacman Fast Freeze (ATARI).XEX Pacman show (ATARI).XEX Pacman (Intro).xex

BUMP! Anyone want to take on the challenge of making this great game NTSC friendly?

Thanks. Tried it tonight, but decided against it. The Stackpoles must be a tiny bit smaller and they make it too easy to pop off a Hi-Tek white plunger. The spacebar appeared to work, but when you put it back on the beige top cover the alignment is just off enough to cause it to rub on the top cover.

Are Hi-Tek and Stack Pole key caps interchangeable? Not the plungers (white vs yellow), just the brown key caps with the letters and numbers?

Took it apart again today and examined the Faraday cage. The issue is that it is bent or bowed along the front joystick port side. I bows downward from the center to out (like a smile). Its very slight, but you can see its no longer straight. I will try electrical tape first and if that fails, I'll try to bend it back. Not sure how someone managed to twang it up like this and not destroy the computer. Must have been disassembled and dropped.

Awesome game. Thank you for the excellent game! I too second the notion that a paddle or racing controller would make this even better.

This is a new one on me. Had an 800 I had disassembled to clean the plastic. The heavy Faraday shield case had Styrofoam peanuts used as a spacer between the heavy gauge case and motherboard. At the time I thought it an odd thing to do. Once reassembled, I found that a perfectly Code 1 keyboard did not work save the BREAK key. I know the BREAK key is on its own interrupt. Dissembled and tested keyboard without the heavy Faraday case and it worked great. Started to get creative and only installed some screws and used inert material and it got better, but still flaky. The CONTROL key acted like BREAK, some keys didn't register and it skipped to lower case without me touching the caps key. Again, no Faraday cage, works great. I guess I'm going to line the Faraday cage with electrical tape everywhere it makes contact with the motherboard. Anyone ever run into such craziness?

If you are referring to L1 and L2 alternating during the ROM/RAM memory check, that it normal. The L1 and L2 LEDS will alternate when even and odd "K" RAM is tested. They have other functions when not in test. I think one signifies the international character set and the other is Keyboard disabled.

Sounds like a lot of the Widows 10 hype is misleading. They make it sound like a Windows 10 phone can run x86 apps.