orrimarrko

Looking for the following Sears boxes and manuals. Pics a must, and I'm looking for them in as minty shape as possible. Boxes: Target Fun Speedway II Manuals: Target Fun Pong Sports (gatefold edition - if it matters) The boxes that I'm looking for are for the text carts, as are the manuals. Just let me know! Thanks, Steve

I'd like to think that in my world, it would make it cheaper... Seriously though - this is disheartening news. I'm glad that I asked though. Thanks for the info guys. Steve

Aww CRAP! Should have known it was too good to be true...

I didn't see anything regarding printing information in the thread. Did I miss it? What is the recommended paper (gloss, I'm assuming) for this? I would certainly not want to use regular paper and an inkjet... Anyone?

Just putting feelers out there. Have no idea what this would go for. Thanks, Steve

Wow, either that is a glitch, or they changed that. Interesting, thanks. I believe it just facilitates the second chance offer option (which now shows up under each underbidders name in the list) That is correct.

Hey Rick, The page still says March 5, 2006. Is there a new link, or is the date just not updated. Also, are the pics different than the ones you had in March (or are they basically the same items?) Thanks, Steve

That video is great with the music! Hilarious!!

Is there a way to separate the (re)releases from the rest? Or would you simply have to go title to title? Thanks, Steve

Has anyone heard from Tom in a while? I hope everything's alright. I've been trying to by a couple of games, but haven't heard back from him in a month. Anyone?

I want a poll, I do not agree with Shawn and some others around here. Just because there were around 100-200 copies for sale all at once, doesn't change it from a 9/10 to a 6. How many hundred copies of Springer are floating around? I know I have owned at least 10 copies myself over the years. Just because an item is sold periodically for a short amount of time, doesn't change the fact that only a few hundred exist. Otherwise, why is Berenstain Bears still a 9? Hardie found a shitload of them. He is just smarter than the guys from Venezuela, he drips them out over a period of years. I have to agree with CPU here. Hypothetically, the influx of IW and Moto could dry up by this time next year, and you'll go back to paying well over $100 for a new copy of these games. I think there's a difference between having a lot of copies show up at the same time (for a period of time) and a consistent flow over a longer period of time. I would wait a while to see what happens. From what I can tell, it's already started to slow down. It's just like that guy who found all the Rescue Terra boxed carts. Now try and find one. Just my 2 cents. Orri-

Okay. So I thought that I would give it a shot with Auction Sniper last night. I had 9 or 10 games that I entered snipes for - decent amounts with a 3 second lead time. All bids were entered, and I won ONE auction. Of the 9 or 10 items however, only about half were truly serious bids, the rest were an experiment. Of the serious bids, I was outbid with 4 or 5 seconds to go - which is a little odd, considering that the snipe shouldn't have taken place until there was 3 seconds to go. Hmm... Anyway, it was all mostly an experiment to see how this would work. What I found out was that britishdragon has lots of money.

It's true that I'm picky, but I'm not unreasonable - which is why I ask for the pics. If it's a very nice box, label, manual, etc. I would consider it. What I'm trying to avoid are two things - incomplete games and crappy boxes. Thanks, Orri-

Yes, Yes, No Allan Beauty - thanks! Orri-

I think that I may have my terminology messed up a little. Please correct me if I'm wrong... A "conversion" would be taking a game that was not originally made for the 5200 (for example) and converting the original format into one that can be played on the system. For example: Atlantis, Donkey Kong, Tapper. A "reproduction" would be taking the original 5200 proto to reproduce the game and make it available in cart format. For example: Super Pac-Man, Millipede, Asteroids. Do I have this right? If so, then I'm asking about reproductions. Was a reproduction cart made for Real Sports Basketball and or Track & Field? I probably have this messed up... Thanks again for your help! Orri-

Do you mean converted to the Atari 800? They do exist for the 5200. I meant conversions for the 5200. I know they exist in proto form (like asteroids.) What I was wondering was if they had been made available in cart form recently (within the past couple of years.) Also, does anyone know who did the Tapper conversion? Thanks!

Choice 3 and a snipe program it is. Welcome to the Thunderdome! LOL!

Does anyone know if these two games were made in to reproduction carts? Just curious. I don't think that I've seen pics of these two, but if they've been done, please let me know. Thanks, Orri-

Choice 3 and a snipe program it is.

Because it wont go up to $100 unless someone else bids it up to that amount. And if they bid it over that should be fine with you anyway since 100 was your max. But if you win it for $50 or slightly above that's even better. So even if you bid $100 you can still win it for $50. Get it straight Sorry, but you aren't getting his point. If you enter your maximum early, it may rise throughout the auction unnecessarily. If you enter it late, there won't be time for it to rise up to (and possibly surpassing) your maximum bid. Sniping at the auction's end prevents unnecessary incremental bidding by others. Yes, you might still win the auction at $50, perhaps at $100. But if you enter the max bid early on, you may win it at $100 instead of $50 or perhaps somewhere in-between. He's absolutely right.

Well said.

No, it's not. Many collectors here win auctions without sniping. Sniping has nothing to do with winning or loosing an auction. The highest bidder always wins, regardless of when the bid was placed. Sniping is just a way to get the highest bid as low as possible If i can give you some advice: Drop the 3 stage bidding strategy. Just bid as high as you want as late in the auction as possible. Perhaps not every time. However, for items that have lots of bidders, I disagree. Now this is an excellent point. I realized that yesterday when I looked up britishdragon's "bidder list" and saw nothing. This would be an excellent reason to snipe though.

Not for the people that bid in small increments. When you snipe, you don't leave them any time to react and re-up their bid and out-bid you (and subsequently driving up your cost). I agree. That would be nice, but I also agree with YOK that eBay wouldn't do this.

What are you talking about?? The field is level, everyone has the same opportunity to bid what they are willing to pay..if someone is willing to pay more than you..you lose!! Sorry - it's not level from one perspective. If it were level, then there wouldn't be the need to discuss this at all - you wouldn't need to have/use a sniping program. The mere fact that one is used at all affirms that it provides an advantage, period. If someone has an advantage over another in regards to bidding, then the playing field is not level.

Jerry - Well said; I couldn't have said it better. This is exactly what I have been doing for years (except the sniper part.) That is exactly why you shouldn't enter your max bid early on. I totally disagree with those who say, put in your max bid and walk away. It's logical to assume that others will chip away at the high bid, in the hopes that they get it - so why put in a bid that will let them do that? I'm not going to repeat what you said in this regard, because your point is clear. However, it is smart to put in your max bid with about a minute to go. My usual strategy has ALWAYS been to put in the lowest bid possible when I see something I want to buy. It doesn't matter whether I get the high bidder at that point or not. I only want to get in the running for that game. With about 3 minutes to go, I'll enter in a bid that I'm comfortable with, to see where I'm at. If it's not enough, I'll enter my max bid at that time. If it's still not good enough, then I walk. Let's say though, I take the high bid with 3 minutes to go. With one minute to go, I'll enter my max bid. That way, if I've been outbid between minutes 3 and 2, I'll still have time to get in my max bid and hopefully take the item. Hopefully, no one has bid in small increments to unnecessarily raise the price (like you said), and I can walk away with my 3 minute bid. If not, then my 1 minute bid should be good enough (if it's still not enough when I place it, then I walk away.) What I was talking about in my initial post can be illustrated like this: Say, with three minutes to go, an item's high bid is $15.00, and it normally goes for $40-$50. I come in and place a bid of $61.54, and become the high bidder at $16.00. At one minute, the bid has now been raised to $20.00. To me, there is enough of a gap between the current bid and my max bid with a minute to go, for me not to enter any higher amount, even if it's not my max bid. Even if it gets raised a little, I'm still okay with that - because I was willing to pay $61.54 anyway. However, with 3 seconds to go, I lose my high bid, and the auction sells for $63 (or whatever the next incremental bid would be.) The reason that bothers me is because it would seem that ANY bid coming in with a few seconds to go (if the high bid is $20 at that point) would not normally exceed my bid of $61.54. Not without sniping. It would only seem logical to place a bid at even double or triple the current high bid, at that point. A $40 or $60 bid on a $20 item should be more than enough to take it most of the time. But you wouldn't know that you needed to bid more than $61.54 without the sniper program. There are some people on eBay that will over bid intentionally (say a $100 snipe in this case), knowing that they probably won't have to pay that much, but it will be enough to win the item. If it does cost them that much, they don't care, because they probably have a huge bankroll anyway. Britishdragon is one of those bidders. It doesn't matter what you've put in as your max bid - it could be $100 on a $5 item. If he wants in, you'll lose that auction at $102.50. To me, that's BS, because without the snipe, he would never have known to bid that high. Believe me, I completely understand the proxy system and yes, I know how eBay works (to the person who wondered that a few posts earlier.) And at it's basic premise, of course, the highest bid takes the auction - period. I just get frustrated when the playing field isn't level. Regardless, this thread has just proved to me that sniping is necessary if you want to bid on 2600 auctions on the 'Bay. I do understand why people snipe, it's just frustrating. Anyway, I'm still hoping for other information about what program/site people use here. Thanks, Orri-