tpugmire

All PM's have been replied to, and the games are spoken for. Thanks for all the interest.

I've received a few offers via PM. I'll be getting back to everyone this weekend.

I'm going to be selling a few items from my collection to help fund some projects I'm working on. I don't sell very often, so I don't have a lot of references/feedback. I have 100% good feedback on eBay, along with a few on various other websites. Anyway, the first things for sale are my copies of Video Reflex and Video Jogger. Both are very clean and have been tested. I'd like to get $100 for the pair, with free shipping.

Glad I could be some help. Let us know how the box ends up working. Now someone needs to make an aftermarket Turbobooster Plus and we'd be set.

That cable is pretty cool, I've never seen it before. The shape of that big connector was a NEC only type of thing. Nobody has found anything that would work, short of having something new manufactured, which is what it looks like happened here.

I guess I'm searching for the wrong things, all I see is one with the stripped ends. That is similar to the ones I make, but mine look better. I guess it boils down to how much time you're going to spend looking at the back of your console. To answer your original question though, I don't believe you can use the booster from a PC Engine on your TG-16. Electronically, it would work, but physically it's a different shape. That's what I've been told anyway.

If you are comfortable soldering, you can mod your console to output composite. The turbo booster is just a pass through connector. The console outputs composite already, you just need to add the jacks. It's fairly easy, all you need is a bit of wire, the jacks, and a copy of the pinout so you know what goes where. Alternatively, there is a cable that you can make if you don't feel comfortable modding the console itself. I've made them for a few people here in the past.

I wonder if in, say 50 years, people will look at all the shiny black appliances with blue LED's in the same way we look at the green and orange appliances of the 60's and 70's? They'd be like "Gloss black and blue LED lights? That's so 2010's!"

It's going to be harder to sell your 2 extra consoles without power cords. I've purchased a handful locally over the past 5 years or so for a dollar each. I would say that a bare console with no cords would sell for about $15-$20 if it were tested to ensure it works. Untested, no more than $10.

I should be able to.

I have a boxed Journey Escape in great shape if you need scans.

LED's don't usually burn out unless you supply way too much power, so you may have bigger issues than a bad light. If I remember correctly, most LED's require about 1.5 volts, and they are pretty standard. You could replace it with just about any color LED you want. Radio Shack will have everything you need, just solder a wire to each of the leads and hook it to the board. Pay attention to the orientation of the old LED, since they only work one way.

I'm up around 350. It's been a while since I've bought any games, so I don't remember the latest.

Was there ever a definitive word on if the US is getting the limited edition version with the blue shell statue thing? I've seen mention of a UK release and South Africa, but nothing else.

Perhaps there is some online component that's isn't ready yet? Could be a patch for the game itself, or an update for the console? That's the only reason I can think of.

It wouldn't be the fuse if there's no fan movement. The fan is wired before the fuse. It almost sounds as though the power jack might be the problem if you aren't getting anything at all, since you've tested the power supply.

I bought a region mod board from a guy on pcenginefx.com a few years ago. It was fairly easy to install, and allows me to play both US and Japanese games. You may want to check that site, lots of knowledgeable people there.

As the title says, I'm going to be in the L.A. area next week, and was curious if there are any game stores worth looking into. Not looking for anything specific, but Famicom stuff would be great!

I wonder if the fact that it is a Canadian NES game matters? Either way, interesting stuff. I've never seen one before either.

I'm fairly certain that I've never even seen a 7800 in person. I was one of the first kids in my neighborhood to get a NES, and pretty much everyone followed suit. I never even saw a SMS until last year. So I guess NES for me.

You also my want to check the clock capacitor. It's kind of a known issue. They pretty much all leak, causing corrosion and damage to nearby traces. This damage can manifest itself in various ways, mostly having to do with power issues or drive opening and closing. It's a pretty simple job to fix, just cut it off the board. The unit will still function fine, it just won't keep time if it gets unplugged.

I really wanted to try this out when it came out, but after my experience with Star Wars Galaxies, I thought better of it. One day I realized that I had played SWG almost every day for 6 years and I had no social life. No more MMO's for me.

One thing that I've ran into myself, that may be of some help. If you do determine that it is the switch itself that is to blame, you can actually open the switch and check for a bad connection inside. It's fairly delicate work, but as long as you get everything back together correctly, it's easy. Most times, the sliding metal part inside the switch that actually makes the connection just needs to be cleaned and bent back into shape to make a strong connection. You should definitely reflow the solder joints first though, since that is way easier.

Try disassembling the pot and cleaning it up. I had this exact same thing happen and it helped, although I still have a little bit of the line you're talking about, but it's not as noticeable.

I play, but I'm still burned out from Whacking Day. Hopefully it's not as boring as that turned out to be.