grips03

Any way to add the additional two button offered on the super action controller to the standard Coleco controller?

Youki thanks for the rom. On regular Star Wars cart: Press fire button, then at difficulty menu press any keypad button and it inverts to up=up, and down=down. thanks

wait a sec, the CV doesn't output +5 on the controller port perhaps a DPDT switch, in a small form factor.

looks like MAX4527CPA+ will work

Has anyone hacked Star Wars rom so up is up and down is down? If not, I was thinking of adding a circuit to the controller that would: up switch on controller goes into IC input 1 down switch on controller goes into IC input 2 IC switch has two states: - if control pin it high then IC input 1 goes to IC output 2 and IC input 2 goes to IC output 1 - if control pin it low then IC input 1 goes to IC output 1 and IC input 2 goes to IC output 2 got any TTL part numbers for me to use? thanks

Any video of the module / games in action from the beta?

Yep, that sounds right. Pin 33 of the expansion port is composite output for the expansion module. Otherwise look up the instructions for my YPbPr mod kit, and hook up the composite output to where the yellow wire goes. I tried Expansion Module #1 off my YPbPr / component enabled CV and it works. Video is kind of bad, but I think just how EM1 works in general. If I use F18A enabled CV I get audio, just no video, so I bet tapping the composite signal as 5-11 outlines will make the EM1's video be fine on the CV with F18A. However, I think I'll just use s-video off my old Atari rather than play via EM1 as it looks much better.

I for one try to avoid the Paypal.com "gift" option as your not really gifting anything. If seller doesn't want to pay paypal.com fees then just send them 4% extra to cover the fees, we do this all the time on neo-geo.com forum. That way the buyer and seller are protected. If seller doesn't want to do a transaction that way, it looks suspicious and you can avoid them.

I tried the expansion module 1 (Atari) with the F18A, but got no video. Matt does that sound right?

Genesis controller is wired to Coleco controller via a hole in bottom of Coleco controller. So to play games press keypad button on CV controller, but use Genesis for game play. CV itself doesn't know / care what switch is being closed, for up/down/left/right/fire1 and fire2. Genesis wires just go to the corresponding positions on the CV controller. I soldered them in towards the bottom of the CV controller. Genesis controller has had the electronics removed, it just used for remote switches for the CV.

If you cut ribbon cable to length, use IDC 16 pin female socket: 3M p/n 89116-0001 <--made in USA or Omron p/n XG4M-1630 <--made in Japan the Radio Shack 1/8" jack has the longest threads, but requires a little more work to install due to lip on thread side of connector. 2nd choice would be 35RAPC2BV4 or SJ1-3513 (this one has eyelets to solder wire into)

I like the Genesis controller wired into the CV controller for number pad use, while using Genesis controller for games. I wired up "B" button for Bank Panic use = up. A and C map to CV buttons on left and right.

Thanks for the explanation Matt. Here are some more photos. I've added radio shack 1/8 (3.5mm) stereo jack. CV plastic is kind of thick, so depth is barely enough for nut to thread on outside of CV. I would recommend 15/64 (or 1/4 inch) drill bit for the 1/8 jack's hole. Radio shack 1/8 jack has lip so either widen the hole from inside CV, or remove lip, to expose more threads for the nut to grab. I did order a couple of 1/8 jacks from Digikey, so if one of them has a greater depth to it I'll post the part number here. I got audio from left side of C88, in the upper right of the console (looking from the front). http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7852041994/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7852047278/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7852048658/in/photostream

Problem with MULE is writing on TV screen in order to remember where to mine.

ok, np. I have have the component pretty dialed in besides the going dark on me for some games. If you ever do get a DMM again and the CV is apart, it would be great to get some readings. The F18A doesn't have the vertical lines that the component has, but one thing the component does is stretch the video from edge to edge on my TV. The VGA doesn't do this, hence the picture is smaller. Example: Frogger with VGA has green band around edge, like a picture frame, the component doesn't do this. Perhaps its just how my TV works, but I wish the frame could be black vs. green, or no frame at all. I have widescreen LCD TV. All in all I think most people will be happy with either, both are much better than RF and composite.

Wow! That picture is phenomenally clear. True arcade quality! I have the 5-11under video component mod, which has been remarkable and very satisfactory for the price. However if I get a 2nd working Colecovision, I may spring for this card. Thanks for the good info guys! I have the component video board as well. Works well besides for games with tons of black on the screen, example Gorf turns dim after level 1, and Galaxian level 1 when only 8 bad guys are left on screen. Next week I'll try to adjust the pots to fix this. I don't have the same issue with the VGA board, but there are no pots on the VGA card to adjust. Can you test you component video card to see if it does the same thing? If it doesn't can you take a ohm reading of the top to wiper lead, also bottom to wiper lead would be great too.

I searched and searched but could not find anything better. The DB15 ports I liked (black and gold) are only in two row and not 3 row like VGA port, so I would have had to use a different video cable or had one custom made. Also space in the back of the CV is limited on the bottom corner. So the 3 row DB15 fits best interior wise. I've ordered several part numbers for 3.5mm audio jack and new IDC 16 female, right now I'm using a IDC40. Folding the ribbon cable works, but ribbon cable and IDC connectors are so easy to work with I figured why not

I practiced on another piece of plastic and had good results so I ended up using the VGA port that comes with F18A. Take the VGA port off metal PC slot thing. Place metal thing on back left of Colecovision, use tape to hold metal thing in place. Drill 2 holes for screws on each side. Put in screws, then drill hole in center of area for VGA port. Then use dremel (rotary) tool to clean out that area, but not all the way to the screw holes you just made. Finish with file. Remove screws and metal thing. Now go buy a IDC 16 pin female socket ( 2 rows x 8 pins each), something like p/n 1658620-3. Cut ribbon cable going to F18A to length, use vice or IDC crimp tool install new IDC socket on ribbon cable, don't use needle nose pliers. Install VGA port upside down so that the ribbon cable can be flat inside CV. Then cut back CV's top metal shield so the VGA connector has space. Here is pic of TV. Picture on TV, much better than picture shows. http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream

Here are the pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7842320596/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7842320280/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7842315576/in/photostream

Cool

Follow this link to the HardHat's order page... http://www.adamcon.org/cartridge.html Thanks for the link. Link has boxed and non-boxed for sale. Earlier in the thread it says boxed is sold out. Which is right?

great news! can't wait to order SGM and some SGM enhanced games.

How do I order this game?

Matt's F18A V1.3 Video Board is awesome. Video is very solid and colors are very good. I did not take pics, but I can. The VDP is the 40 pin chip with the heat sink on it. I've been thinking about the VGA port provided and perhaps if I remove enough material then the external VGA cable will plug in fine. Too late to try it tonight as I'll make a mistake and really didn't want to make one as this is my only Canadian CV. The VGA card has jumpers and comes with install instructions. I did not have to remove any jumpers for CV install. My Sony TV has standard and Vivid video setting, standard setting seem to look best with this card. I'm sure other TV's will vary.

I ordered Colecovison VGA card from Matt, see link below. Got VGA board in 3 days http://codehackcreate.com/store **Please do all steps very slowly** 1-Snip VDP pins, Xuron 170-II micro-shear cutter is perfect for this, remove VDP 2-Desolder VDP pads on PCB, I used fresh flux on solder wick to remove solder from bottom of board, don't pull solder wick across CV pads as they are too weak and will break, do one pad at a time 3- I used Xuron 450S ultra percise tweezer node pliers with serrated jaws to pull out the pins, heat the pad/pin while doing this 4-I then went back and cleaned up pads with solder wick with fresh flux, hold solder iron on pad until pad eyelet is clear of solder, again don't move solder iron, let solder flux and wick do the work 5-Inserted new 40pin socket and solder 6-Clean flux off with alcohol and toothbrush, do this softly, only do this do after you solder socket to pads, if you do before perhaps pads will break off 7-Make sure PCB free of alchol, I use compressed air to do this Games work good, but Frogger requires one to press reset after CV gives grabbled graphics from power on, other games tested ok and did not need to press reset. Now VGA socket and cord are too long. Also VGA port is not deep enough. I'm going to search Digkey and Mouser for better VGA port to mount to CV, i.e. so external VGA cable can be fully inserted. CV plastic thicker than metal plate. Metal plate might prove useful to use as router guide to remove plastic for VGA connector hole. I think I will try to mount directly behind the VGA board as the top cover can be removed. Also its a good idea to buy 3.5mm audio jack as you will need this for audio.