grips03

Rev 2.1 pcb fits really well, much nicer install and screw hole spacing. I'll post a photo later tonight. Rev 3 is shipping today. It has the improved wiring, so hope fully that checks out too. I think it will be here on Friday.

Pool of Radiance by SSI

PM sent.

done and done. Thank you!!!! Looks like I'll need to order some Pros

I'm starting a pre-order list. No need to pay until ready to ship. Estimate is July/Aug 2020. Send me a PM if interested. Price is $30 + $5 USA shipping for Rapid Fire 2.0 kit. You would then install or have someone else install for you. If you wish for me to install the Rapid Fire 2.0 mod kit, price is $30 RF 2.0 kit + $30 labor + $10 return shipping in the USA. Turn around time should be less than a week once I get the controller from you. I will mod stock Gray, Black and the Starwander (reproduction) Pro Controller. Price for pre-modded controller is: New Stock black Jag controller with Rapid Fire 2.0 pre-installed: $60 + $10 shipping in USA (stock 5 4) Lightly used Stock gray Jag controller with Rapid Fire 2.0 pre-installed: $50 + $10 shipping in USA (stock 1) New* Starwander (reproduction) Pro Controller with Rapid Fire 2.0 pre-installed**: $100 + $10 shipping in USA (will order more). * Starwander Pro Controllers has little razor cuts in the gray plastic near all the buttons, this is how they were when I purchased them new. I think they are all this way. I don't really know as I only bought the ones I bought and they have this defect. If others are like this or not like this let me know. I will provide photos. So yes, they are new and not used, but they have this cosmetic defect. At the same time they work great and feel really nice, so this is the preferred option for sure. ** Starwander Pro Controllers only - when Rapid Fire is enabled it provides Rapid Fire for both Z and B buttons. If you want Rapid Fire for B only on a pre-modded controller add $20. More details in post #49 in this thread.

Rev 3 PCB ordered. This should be the last one. It's really the 4th pcb made for this project so it better be the last one I was able to take out some cost, but then needed to add a new cost in there to make wiring nicer (hopefully). Also adjusted drill hole spacing so they are all equal. It should look even better than the past photos. I think if all goes right I should be able to ship in July/Aug.

I've not played T2K. But if you press button B a bunch playing this game then it could help. Yes, can be installed into reproduction / Starwander Pro Controller.

So far Starwander Pro Controller (SPC) with rapid fire feels the best for Raiden Just press RF button twice for 6 CPS and have fun. This is what the blue shot looks like after collecting them in level 1. Video is beginning of level 2. IMG_3744.m4v Here is 6 CPS RF at the start of the game with no power ups. Holding B down. IMG_3746.m4v and with no RF, holding B down. IMG_3747.m4v

I did some more testing on the Starwander Pro Controller (SPC) and B and Z (aka keypad 7) get enabled for rapid fire when rapid fire is turned on. Please note B and Z still work independently. Its not like if you press and hold B, then some how Z is being pressed, its not. Its just if you press and hold Z, then Z also has rapid fire (if rapid fire is enabled). And yes one could press and hold B and Z and have rapid fire for both. If one did not want rapid fire for Z, and rapid fire was enabled, then just press keypad button #7. tech details: What happens is on the SPC's top pcb both B and Z are present. So when the rapid fire microcontroller changes Pin3/Col3 to be Rapid Fire or no Rapid Fire it changes it for everything on the top PCB that use Pin3/Col3, namely both B and Z. If you want to remove rapid fire from Z on the SPC. It requires cutting a thin trace on the SPC's top board and then scraping the solder mask off and soldering NewB wire to this point vs. using the normal rapid fire insertion point at the ribbon cable. Since the SPC's top pcb trace going to Z and B is so thin it can rip up very easily. It also might make sense to drill a small hole in the top pcb and route the 30awg kynar wire to that spot. Best drill location is likely just above the two holes you see in the picture below. I would drill right through the trace in question. I'm using kapton tape to hold the backside of the top pcb and wire in place, but perhaps hot glue or something else might be better. I'm looking for a recommendation if you have one. I would only recommend doing this for people who don't care if they ruin the SPC's top pcb. Please do not try this if you are not really good at soldering. I would charge $20 more for this single wire and think most people will be happy with rapid fire for both B and Z on the SPC. It's a feature For stock Jag controllers Pin3/Col3 on the top pcb affects B only. SPC notes: Z=7 Y=8 X=9 LB = 4 RB = 6

Rev 2.1 board is ordered. This should fix the physical install stuff. I wanted it to be cost reduction, but I will have to save that for the 4th pcb as I need to breadboard that part first.

Wow. I never even thought that. Does fake sound bad? I didn't think so. Anyway, I changed it to Starwander Pro Controller (SPC).

Stock black & gray and Starwander Pro Controller (SPC) work, however the PCB will need to be smaller in order to fit the SPC. Once that is done all 3 controllers can use the same PCB and pretty much use the same install method. Only delta is on SPC you get power from the bottom / left of the lower (keypad) pcb vs. stock controllers just get from the IC that is facing you. Working with the SPC is easier due to more room, however you need to be careful not to bend the ribbon cable between the controller's top/direction+action and bottom/keypad PCB too much, otherwise the little wires break. The stock Jag controllers have much thicker ribbon cable wire, so less of a concern there. Install requires 6 wires. 28ga rainbow flat ribbon wire worked best. Make into 3 groups of 2 wires each, 6 inches long. Wires will be around 4 inches or less once everything is wired up to the locations needed. Group-1 1-5V 2-GND Group-2 3-LED + 4-LED GND Group-3 5-Col/Pin 3 6-New B One drill hole for the led, little bit bigger than 5/32. Three drill holes in the back. Drill locations are auto aligned using the Jag RF 2.0 pcb. Top and bottom hole for 4-40 screw, 3.09mm or .1215 inch. Needs counter sink, so screw is flush in the back. Middle hole to fit button, 8.34mm or .328 inch

Has anyone ever made an alternate d-pad for the stock gray or black Jag controller? I mostly use the fake Pro Controller or arcade stick, but it seems like the stock controller could be much better with a better d-pad.

I added an on/off/on led cycle so you know you pressed the button. In the video I cycle from no RF, to 5,6,7,8,9, then no RF. IMG_3643.m4v

Here are some photos. Photo 4 and 5 are how it should look on all the controller types (besides a real Pro Controller - as I don't own one and would not want to mod it anyway). Hole alignment on Starwander Pro Controller (SPC) is off, will need to fix. The two stock controllers are fine. Going to code the led on/off logic now. After that I'm going to see how nicely to SPC pcb allows for rapid fire to be added. I think it will be fine, but better to check.

Will the video mod board have RGB, S-video and composite or just RGB? Would be great if it had all 3. So happy to see RGB board for Intv that would work with OSSC.

Well tracking shows its an hour drive from my house. Its been there for the last 4 5 6 7 8 days, so my guess is there is a delay in sorting. Hopefully it arrives this week. Looks like it left Springfield, MA after 8 days of being there and now is in route to my post office. Hopefully it arrives next week. Well 12 days to mail something in the US. Anyway its here, so that is great news.

Can you borrow guys from the other player? Say if player 1 has 3 lives left and player 2 has none. Can player 2 borrow one from player 1?

Oh yes, I forgot about that part. Console5 seems to get them same color now, but I still map each color wire to each pin just in case. The worse is checking them over and over and then after everything is built then finding a pin/wire no longer works, then de-soldering and starting the process over. Its just the worse. For non Intv2 use always buy the Super Cable. You will love that cable.

What I found for the past 7+ years of doing projects for Coleco and Intv is that the Retrobit, Console5, other new cables on ebay, etc. all comes from the same manufacturer in China. Console5 sells them for the least amount, but they have all have the same quality (not good).

A good place to buy screws online is https://www.mcmaster.com they should have the size needed for the blue carts.

Elektronite, How is it the customers fault that you sold new games with old/bad stickers? Good luck with future sales having this attitude.

C64 GI Joe

Would be great to have Intv RGB that works with OSSC.