atari2atari
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Posts posted by atari2atari
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Hey, nifty!
I will be interested to read the build-log !
I'm sure it will be a better 2600 portable than the ones I have seen in the stores recently !
I still have my board, but never got around to adding a ROM into the blank slot.
Mostly because I couldn't figure out how to design a pull-up resistor that would turn OFF the soldered-in ROM when a REAL cartridge was slotted in!
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Could someone be so kind as to link me to a U.S. seller of SMD switches that would work for the FinalGROM99 ?
I foolishly requested a board WITHOUT switches and LEDs, before I knew about c0d3m4st4's excellent 3D-printed case.
I just ordered a case from him, and would like to take advantage of the 3D buttons that he includes.
I have plenty of 5mm LEDs, but am having a hard time digging through parts lists online to find a perfect fit for the SMD switch...
Thanks in advance to anyone that can assist! It might be useful for others, too!
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PM sent! Excited about a printed case
for the Final GROM99.
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PM sent, this is great timing, just got a "new" TI-99 and am looking forward to this!
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Sorry I revoked access because I had bandwidth issues with Earthlink earlier in the year.
Understandable, FTP sites can get hammered, no matter what sort of limits you set up.
Looks like I got what I needed for the moment, so no worries, carry on!
Thanks for the reply!
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Thank you! That is very kind of you. I appreciate it!
Everything else on the Internet wants to give me a solution, and I just want the list of possible commands and general instructions so I can figure it out myself!
Great scan, by the way, excellent quality!
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Password seems to have been reset?
Would love access, am looking for 'Return to Pirate's Isle' manual scan, maybe it's there?
Thanks!!
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Great looking set of fun stuff!
I'm looking for a simple computer for my toddler, since it's what I grew up playing with.
I'll shoot you a PM and see if we can work something out!
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H2
in Atari 7800
Where can one buy a CC2 for a reasonable price then?
You can't, actually. Best bet is to stalk eBay, where one might appear every few months.
Here's the last few:
Definitely need a new product to fill this niche in the marketplace...
-a2a
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Beautiful...
Too bad the game will never see the light of day! A project long-abandoned.
Who knows, maybe someone else will pick up the banner and charge forward.
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I recently took another look at that GD-EMU device for the DC. How well does it work? It looks amazing! I may pick one up when they're available again (I can sell my DC collection for extra money too).
Excellent device.
I owned one, as well as the USB-GDROM.
After extensive testing, I sold the GD-EMU and kept the USB-GDROM. I like the USB hard drive access way better than faffing about with SD cards and programs to manage the menus, etc.
As well, the ordering process for the GD-EMU is epic, and there is VERY limited availability for devices.
The USB-GDROM, however, can be ordered today from Stone Age Gamer:
http://www.stoneagegamer.com/dreamcast-usb-en.html
There are valid pros and cons for both devices, so it will boil down to what the best-fit for your end-use scenario is.
Game on!
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Sorry, chief - - long, long, long gone!
eBay still has a few Adaptoids show up each month, set an alert and you will eventually find one.
Good luck!
-a2a
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I think the resistors are required because the output from the TIA is too "bright" and maybe would be distorted and loud without them?
You should try what you suggest, though, maybe by just using alligator clips instead of soldering, and then report back on how it does or does not work.
That definitely would be a great addition to the conversation! I'd be interested to hear if it works.
-a2a
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Another round of Deunan's GDEMU orders will open up on July 1.
You can read about it here:
http://gdemu.wordpress.com/2014/06/25/gluttons-for-punishment/
Oh, and for anyone concerned about ordering from him based on recent posts - I wouldn't be worried.
He is incredibly business-like, professional, and to the point - provided that you are the same. He has answered multiple emails from me (I see around 10 in my thread with him) regarding a variety of ordering and technical questions, and each reply was courteously and completely answered within less than a day.
Everything was shipped well-packaged, with tracking, and arrived safely. The device is fantastic, if you are comfortable with and understand the precise specifications he clearly provides on his website. Perfect disc emulation at more than twice the native speed in most situations, and without the grinding noise of the GD-ROM. I couldn't be happier.
I wouldn't hesitate to do business with him. 10/10, would use teh Internetz again.
-a2a
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This is a prelude to my "Make Way for Baby" sale that will be happening soon.
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Hey, I'm having one of those sales right now, too! We could call them "Digital to Diapers" or something similar, I suppose.
Good luck with the sale(s), and congrats on the kid...
Beautiful looking system, and the low_budget video mod is EXCELLENT on the 5200 and ATARI computers, too. I have been VERY happy with it, the S-video is flawless, with no jailbars / vertical banding, and the colors are bright and crisp.
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As happens eventually with all threads around here after they have gotten good and well-beaten . . .
IT'S SHATNER TIME!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lul-Y8vSr0I
(action begins at 0:51)
Let's blast this thread off . . . with some ROCKET MAN!
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I know he can be a little ornery but that's the price of doing business. This one time I ordered a medium turkey chili and it didn't come with the bread like it was supposed to. . . oh wait that was another guy.
NO SOUP FOR YOU!!!
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Ah, it must be time for our yearly "I had an experience with BEST ELECTRONICS" thread.
Sorry to hear you had a negative experience, 3DOMan.
I will just add myself to the list of people who have had nothing but positive experiences for years.
I just placed yet another order yesterday, actually.
Yes, he is curt, to the point, and arbitrary. That's his right, however, much as it is yours to choose not to do business with him. Most of us figure out fairly fast when ordering from him for the first time that he has a certain way he likes to do business, and that he is a certain type of personality. We then make the decision to either deal with it. Or not.
Looks like you chose "not" by starting an argument with him. I think that if you would still like to do business with him, you could simply apologize and say something along the lines of "I think we got off on the wrong foot, I'm sorry..." Or, not. Your choice.
"Best" of luck with whatever you decide!
On another topic, but still related - - I am happy to see that he still talks about himself in the third person, or at least that's what I deeply suspect. There are always references to the Warehouse Manager (underlined below), Accounting, the Shipping Department, and so on, but I always thought it was just him. Maybe there are all of these other people, but they usually only come up when there is an issue with the customer, and so I always thought it was a convenient way to have "someone else" be the one saying "no," giving news of a delay, or requesting something additional from the customer.
Personally, I would do the same after 30+ years of random individuals emailing, calling, and sending letters requesting odds and ends - - and then those individuals maybe yelling at you for one reason or another!
Best Electronics - Bradley Koda
4:33 PM (2 hours ago)to meThank you for your E-Mail dated 05-13-14.Q. Hello? Are you going to respond to my e-mails?A. took a copy of your last E-Mails to our Atari Warehouse manager. He looked it over and our responses back to you. He said he will pass / decline your Atari order.He said he is sure you can find all of the Atari items on your list on the Internet no problem.Regards
Bradley KodaEDIT:
Attached is one of my favorite articles about BEST ELECTRONICS, an interview with Brad from 2007. Seems like a great guy, an enthusiast, just like all of us . . .
Linked from here: http://www.bertelmann.org/atari-archive/be_en.htm
BEST ELECTRONICS 2007 Interview - www.bertelmann.org.pdf
But, PDF is attached because, well, the Internet. It changes.
-a2a
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Hey,
Rebuilding a joystick. I need a pair of pots with the pot arms and housings as well as a flex circuit.
Cheers,
Shawn
Any interest in Bradley's excellent 5200 rebuild parts available from Best Electronics?
http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/5200.htm
A little pricier, but they are really, really nice. He has separate parts, too, like pot arms and housings.
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Welcome to AA! Hopefully you will like it, and stick around . . .
The locals here are very skeptical of people who just arrive to sell things - - and for good reason, as there have been hijinks and shennanigans in the past.
Some tips - -
- Provide a reference. An established eBay profile that you can prove is yours is a gold standard. A profile on another site where you have sold stuff helps, too.
- Name a price. The only other things folks around here seem to go nuts about more than new people selling things is a "For Offer" thread. Pick a starting price and go with it. Heavy sixers complete successfully on eBay for $40-$80 - - (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=atari+heavy+sixer&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&LH_Complete=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=200&_fpos=&_fsct=&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=200) - - and, I note that you have one of the uncommon hard shell cases, which tend to complete for around $50 ( http://atariage.com/forums/topic/150044-atari-2600-carry-case )
Maybe your starting price is $130 + shipping? Those joysticks you have might be the "version 1" with springs inside, instead of the more fragile plastic ring in later versions. You can usually tell by moving the handles and listening to the creaking and clicking of the springs. Or, just pop it open with a phillips head and take some pictures. Those early edition joysticks are not crazy rare, but it could help with your sale.
- Lastly, test your stuff, or prepare to have your price negotiated down. "Couldn't test" is a common cry among new sellers, and the experienced buyers stay far away from those offers. Not saying you would do it, but some folks determine an object is non-working, but want to still make the sale, and so say they say they can't test it.
I would suggest going here, and trying to figure out how to get it working - - https://atariage.com/howto/connect.html
The simple connector you need to connect an old 2600 to a coaxial (cable TV) can be had for less than $2 at Radio Shack. A copy of Combat or another favorite of yours can be had at any game reseller for a buck or less - - they have a battered old bin of 2600 games somewhere in the store, I guarantee it.
Again, welcome, and best of luck with your sale!
-a2a
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Hmm, I will admit - - I haven't used the S-VIDEO much, just once, and I wasn't paying much attention!
SO, it could be possible I was having issues on that line, but was using the composite and never noticed . . . ?
I think you might have a more careful eye, and possibly a better screen!
Do post your final results, though, if you would. It will help someone down the line, and I need to get mine back out and tinker with it some, too!
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Sorry to resurrect this thread but the outcomes were never listed? I've just installed the longhorn mod board into my 7800 as well and the 2600 video for both composite and s-video is great. But the 7800 composite was giving me these large diagonal lines across the screen with Ballblazer, and when switched to the s-video, I have the diagonal lines and it is black and white? I removed the Tia 9 line and now the composite on the 7800 games looks great, but the s-video still has traces of the diagonal lines. But the s-video does have color with Tia 9 disconnected. But...I also have massive Jailbars on the entire screen? I've only seen this before with cheap s-video cables that combine the composite with the chroma lines but I don't think that is what is happening here.
Ideas on how to minimize the jailbars and did adding an extra resistor before the Tia 9 connection on the mod board help?
Not at all - - I'm glad you resurrected it!
I need to play with that system a bit more, I've been distracted with COINOPS 6 !You are correct, and I am remiss - - I never updated on my resolution for the issue. Sorry!
I did indeed put the TIA 9 on a hard switch, and simply turned it on it and off when I wanted to go between 2600 and 7800 - -
I posted more here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/197026-mod-log-for-7800-with-best-electronics-euro-os-and-littlejoe-video-mod/
But, below is the extract of that:
(The TL; DR version - - I just disconnected the TIA 9 and put it on a switch, no resistors added! Color on 7800 is fine when OFF, no bars present, and the 2600 works just fine visually when ON)
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I say ALMOST because there was a bit of a video issue that the perfectionist in me wanted to clean up . . . !
Add-on Disconnect Switch for TIA 9 on the 2600 Circuit of the 7800 Video Mod
Turns out the TIA 9 line causes some interference to the 7800 when it is running in 7800 mode, and the best way to deal with it right now is to just turn off/disconnect the TIA 9 line while you are running in 7800 mode (it was discussed here: http://www.atariage....s-on-video-mod/).
The video mod board actually switches "off" the TIA 9 automatically, but the automatic switch is a little "leaky" and the interference still comes through.
NOTE - - this interference is the sort of thing that only a video and audio FREAK like me is really going to notice! It's only slightly visible on pure black screens, and I feel you have to be looking for it. This "additional" mod is purely optional, but I like to do things 100%, so I went for it! I think that LittleJoe's video mod is EXCELLENT in it's current form, and this to me isn't a negative in any way! It's just the way it is out here in the wild-west of vintage gaming mods . . . !
So, the TIA 9 input is where the blue wire coming off the LOWER LEFT of the board is in this picture - -
Usually you just wire this point directly to TIA 9, but what you need to do for this mod is put a SPST (single pole, single throw) switch along that line, and flip it to "disconnect" when you are getting your 7800 mode on. Easy!
Finding the right switch, however was a bit more challenging.
I settled on a classic RADIO SHACK SPST "soft touch" in black and red, which I thought matched the classic stylings of the 7800 - -
Pop a hole in the case - -
Wire it up (I used some heat-shrink tubing to cover and clean up my spliced and soldered wires) - -
I put the switch right under the "lip" of the 7800, where it has easy access, but doesn't visually affect the look of the console at first-glance - -
Console flipped upside down to you can see how well the plastic matches - -
And, of course . . . LABELS . . . !
I guess secretly I want to be Captain Picard, as I appear to have used the word "ENGAGE" . . . a subliminal slip?
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Hello, you still sell it ?
This quite amazing. Good luck on your sale, though I don't think you need any luck; this will sell quickly I bet!
...These are the best necro-bumps of ancient, long-dead posts that I have seen all day!
If that Canadian who hasn't actually even logged onto AtariAge since July of 2013 still has that sealed NES game from 2010 . . . that will be amazing.
(Just joking with ya' ! But seriously . . . 2010 was a loooooong time ago!)
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Mod Log for 7800 with BEST ELECTRONICS Euro OS and LittleJoe Video Mod
in Atari 7800
Posted
Whew, old history, nice necro!
I have long since moved this unit on, but I don't recall any lock-ups when I was using this mod.
Others may have better advice for you if you are more specific about the exact BIOS you used, and then the specific games that are locking. Details of lock-up (when it happens, what it looks like), will probably help people, too.
I'm sure SOMEONE will have an idea if you give that information!
-a2a