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atari2atari

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Posts posted by atari2atari


  1. I've been selling the v1.2 mod on ebay for the last couple months as a bare board or fully assembled.

     

    I normally buy parts from Digikey, the part #s for the output jacks is listed below.

    4p mini DIN (s-video jack) CP-2840-ND

    Yellow RCA (composite) CP-1415

    White RCA (audio) CP-1414

    I would recommend 24-26 gauge wire for the connections to the mod board. Some electronics stores sell wire wrapping kits with several colors wire. To connect the video out jacks I like to use shielded wire, usually from a old RCA cable cut up.

    If I get another 5200, I will try to do a installation how to video and post on youtube.

    It will be at least 2 weeks before I get my circuit boards in for the v2.0 mod kit. When they come in I will assemble one and do some testing and might need to change some components. My guess is they won't be available for sale until March or April.

    Some details about v2.0:

    Board will measure 1.75in by 2.125 in.

    Circuit is based largely on the Atari 800, but has changes to provide better picture than an original 800.

    It will connect to 6 lifted pins of the GTIA or CTIA.

    Should work in all 5200 systems and most 8 bit computers (if the board will physically fit in these systems.)

    I like to use 1/4w resistors to make finding the right values easier, even if this makes the board bigger.

    Features dual sided ground planes for minimal RF interference.

    V2.0 is a larger board with more components, so it will cost more than my v1.2 kit.

     

    I will post updates as they come.

     

    Well, hello! Excellent to meet you, and your mod! :D

     

    Thanks for the hard work of puzzling this all out - - I'll be interested to see what version 2.0 looks like!

     

    I note that the process of installing the mod board disables the ability to use the ATARI 2600 adapter - - do you think that in later versions of the board, that might change, and the compatibility will come back?

     

    Or, in order to get this to work is it just a necessity and "how it is" - - I assume there are some traces to cut or things to desolder in the process of installing that makes it incompatible?

     

    -a2a


  2. Gotta say, Bradley's "Gold Dot" upgrade is WELL worth the money. (http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/5200.htm)

     

    It's amazing how well it works, with no mushiness or issues - - although, it still doesn't self-center, oh well!

     

    Combine those controllers with an ATARIMAX SD cartridge, and you will be where I have been for several days - - playing a lot of 5200! The XL conversion games are fantastic. JUMPMAN JR forever! (. . . and GATEWAY TO APSHAI is an old friend I was happy to find again!).

     

    One note with the new controllers from Best Electronics, you often have to adjust the potentiometer inside the 5200 in order to get the "center" and sensitivity right on the unit. I just did it over the weekend for someone who bought the Gold Dot units at my recommendation and then was confused as to why the controllers didn't seem to work!

     

    -a2a


  3. I was looking at the number of 800 carts that were released and there are a number of other games that would make excellent conversions.

     

    I sure would like to see Blue Max, Picnic Paranoia, Slime, Seafox, Protector II, Zepplin, and Major League Hockey. (Major League Hockey is a good choice seeing we have no hockey game for this system)

     

    (A lot of these games are from Synapse and I do think that at least Picnic Paranoia and Slime did come out on cartridge if that helps)

     

    What kind of time is involved with these conversions and how hard are they to do?

     

    Has someone already gone through a lot of these titles and seen what would be involved in converting them to the 5200?

     

    From what I have read here and elsewhere, MANY if not most of the "high-demand" titles have been converted over - -

     

     

    http://www.atariage....ost__p__1521764

     

    http://www.atariage....ost__p__2251911

     

    Others before us have wished there was an easy list to look at for what has/hasn't been converted - -

     

    http://www.atariage....ost__p__1003045

     

    And, I concur, it would be handy!

     

     

    And, finally, just recently in the AtariMax SD card there was this interesting link to an article on the effort required to convert 800 games, to answer your "how hard are they to do" question.

     

    :)

     

    -a2a

     

    EDIT: and, for some reason, I forgot to put the link to that interesting article I just mentioned!

     

    Here: http://www.atarimuseum.com/videogames/consoles/5200/conv_to_5200.html


  4. In some cases, the orange paint has just worn off or been removed from the console. L6er's assembled in Sunnyvale usually don't have the channel switch. By your description of your friend's system, I'm led to believe it was opened and not reassembled correctly.

     

    Was just about to say the same - - that "hump" is created by not placing the face-plate back into the unit correctly.

     

    There is a final tab that needs to "click" and the hump will leave, but don't force it too much . . . !

     

    As to being black with no trim, that could also be another re-assemly issue - - someone used a "VADER" unit face-plate, perhaps, or as zylon pointed out, it does sometimes rub off!

     

    -a2a


  5. Just played the demo for a bit - - FANTASTIC Jans!

     

     

    I found myself drawn in by the character design - - BLINKY is appealing as a hero, and I feel compelled to help him, well done.

     

     

    The physics feel good, although the edges of ledges seem "magnetic," and I discovered I don't have to precisely hit them, and get drawn in? Or maybe it is that the "edges" project out a bit invisibly? Either way, the edges are not quite where I expected them, but then I started compensating for or relying on that "invisible" or magnetic part.

     

     

    On colors, I am not a fan of the yellow-green scheme on LEVEL 2. I prefer the red of level one, and have a second favorite of the blue on level 3.

     

     

    The enemies are good, with a nice variation of types/challenges. I REALLY like how you have positioned various enemies in different spots, like the BOUNCERS right next to or on single brick widths, and then the parapets or "pits" on LEVEL 3 with the horizontal DASHERS is very fun!

     

     

    I like how the gold nuggets are cumulative for extra lives, even between levels! Once I figured that out, I was encouraged to go for them more.

     

     

    Like others have said, this is a GREAT game engine! You can choose to go a lot of ways with this! Some said "bosses" - - I think the levels are "boss" enough, personally.

     

    Music, at least one simple melody that plays ocassionally (not all the time!) and some other background would be nice.

     

     

    That's what I have for now . . . time to go try and beat LEVEL 3!

     

    :D

     

    -a2a


  6. I like the idle "blink" animation, by they way, and he's (she? it?) is a GREAT little character!

     

    It's a he and his name is Blinky!

    I never heard of that game, but it makes more sense now. That said, I still think it should be given a unique name so it can stand on it's own.

     

    -B

     

    Hmm, how about . . .

     

    THE ADVENTURES OF BLINKY !

     

    or . . . maybe . . .

     

    BLINKI VERSUS THE SLINKI ?

     

     

    I think I need some plot and backstory here to help out - - perhaps an epic COVER ART image as was done in the days of ATARI yore . . . like this one, a personal favorite of mine . . . MEGA FORCE

     

    post-27961-0-21147200-1327609456_thumb.jpg

     

    AWW YEAH - - "Deeds Not Words!"

     

     

    Anyways, sorry, I'm derailing the conversation here a bit . . .

     

    :D

     

    -a2a


  7. Just wondering what one of these would go for these days loose....

     

    It's challenging judging the "value" of A8 software, in my opinion. Particularly the more obscure titles.

     

    There are not a lot of sales to go by, which to me means there is low demand, and so that sort of answers the "value" question.

     

    To me, the lack of listings and sales is not due to rarity, just lack of interest . . .

     

     

    Quality/completeness helps, but I have been pricing it by the following VERY complex formula - -

     

    "shot in the dark" plus "half of the value of 1 single eBay listing from a year ago" minus "all reasonable offers accepted"

     

    :D

     

    Hmm, maybe we can trade A8 educational software - - SAMMY THE SEAMONSTER, perhaps? (See listings link below!)

     

    ;-)

     

    -a2a

     

     

    EDIT:

     

    I was just reading more on ROKLAN SOFTWARE and found a fascinating thread from 2008 - -

     

    http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/133687-lifespan-cart-by-roklan-how-many-found/

     

    Your cartridge may be harder to find that I thought . . .

     

     

    And, the game LIFESPAN sounds like a TRIP! Read the description on the Atarimania page - -

     

    http://www.atarimania.com/game-atari-400-800-xl-xe-lifespan_6907.html

     

    I'm going to have to load that up on the ATARIMAX MAXFLASH and give it a whirl . . . quite literally!


  8. Wow, Jans - - thanks for your hard work! This is really fun!

     

    I like the idle "blink" animation, by they way, and he's (she? it?) is a GREAT little character!

     

    The game is part puzzle, part action, and so clever level design will come down to nicely blending those two elements.

     

    Any chance you will release the level editor for all of us to try and "compete" to make fun levels? You could always do a fun competition, and we could all vote . . . ? Just an idea! :D

     

     

    Bravo!

     

    -a2a


  9. Glad you are doing this, Sean - - it should be interesting!

     

    I will flip my units over and get those numbers to you . . .

     

    A suggestion - - you might want to use just the FIRST post you made in this thread and be the "maintainer" of the list.

     

    I've seen a few of this style of list on the forums here and there, and observed that it's hard to use a resource if the details are scattered throughout the thread . . . just an idea! :)

     

    -a2a


  10. I think it's due to the post-Christmas slump, as well - - craigslist has a similar pattern where for two months after Christmas the amount of posts drops drastically.

     

    Don't worry, people will start getting their tax returns (or having to paytheir tax returns!) and then the goods will roll back out . . . we hope! :D

     

    -a2a


  11. P.S. - Can anyone find the REALLY amusing "PM Sent" rage-thread that we all had about six months ago? Good reading, worth bringing back up . . .

     

    PM sent!

     

    Ha! :D See, YOU remember what I am talking about! Where is that pesky old thread . . . it provided much amusement for me . . .

     

    -a2a

     

    That may have been my status update. Maybe? It wasn't a rage, more like a "what's the point?". I tried searching for it but I don't know how to dig through old status updates. Unless it was an actual thread, in which case I don't remember that.

     

    Oh, sorry, no worries, I apologize, it wasn't directed at you (I didn't even see your status update!) - -

     

    - - Rather, it was a full-blown thread with pages and pages of emotion and harrowing tales of dareing and "ne'er do welling" :D

     

    Quite a stimulating bit of reading, if I remember correctly. Similar case, someone was distraught over missing out on an item or something . . .

     

    -a2a


  12. Good call - - I'll carefully measure the mm on the lamp width, and I appreciate the advice on keeping it less than 20ma!

     

    I'll have to go poke around in-person at the 'Shack after taking the shell off the 400 and examining the LED. Wouldn't want leads that were too short, either . . . !

     

    -a2a


  13. P.S. - Can anyone find the REALLY amusing "PM Sent" rage-thread that we all had about six months ago? Good reading, worth bringing back up . . .

     

    PM sent!

     

    Ha! :D See, YOU remember what I am talking about! Where is that pesky old thread . . . it provided much amusement for me . . .

     

    -a2a


  14. As long as you will be in there, get a spare LED. Just about any normal (not hi-powered) LED will work. Look very closely at the leads inside the plastic - you will see that they different up at the die. Just orient the new LED like the old one and you should be OK.

     

    Bob

     

    Thanks again, Bob.

     

    I will grab a potential replacement from Radio Shack, just in case. I was thinking that a blue or classic orange might be a nice replacement, if needs be, but, yes, I will try resoldering first and see if that fixes it.

     

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12611320 - - orange "diffused" could be nice and fit in with the ATARI colors

     

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062572 - - and, green has a certain appeal

     

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102850 - - or, "classic" blue (is it me, or does EVERYthing nowadays have blue LEDs??)

     

    -a2a


  15. Sounds like the "root problem" here from your perspective is actually sellers not updating their threads with the status of items.

     

    I completely agree with you.

     

    The difference between those who update and keep current, and PM in a reasonable time-frame, and those who don't though, is that most of us QUICKLY identify the "unprofessional" or "casual" sellers, and choose not to do business with them

     

    There are a few, because of past dealings or observed behavior, that I just don't bother with - - "AIR RAID for $3!" - - yeah, don't care, not worth it with THAT person!

     

    I feel your frustration, but it is a "community," and to a certain extent, it is self-correcting . . . by having conversations like this one! :D

     

    -a2a

     

     

    P.S. - Can anyone find the REALLY amusing "PM Sent" rage-thread that we all had about six months ago? Good reading, worth bringing back up . . .


  16. LEDs pretty much never burn out, but I see bad solder joints on them often (had one yesterday...). Try just re-soldering the leads.

     

    Bob

    Thanks, Bob!

     

    That's what I was thinking - - I mean, they are LEDs, they are (nearly) forever, right?

     

    I am going to get into the unit this weekend; I will try resoldering the LED to the board.

     

    I appreciate the response!

     

    -a2a


  17. Greetings, fellow 8-BITers!

     

    I have been enjoying my ATARI 400 for some time, but recently I noticed that the red LED that usually is lit when the power is on no longer works!

     

    I'm no stranger to the soldering iron, and I spent some time looking around the 'ternets for any clues on what type of LED this is, and how to replace it, but have had no luck!

     

    Can anyone point me in the right direction? Also, is a failing power-LED a sign of something else going wrong?

     

    THANKS!

     

    -a2a

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