atari2atari

Any interest in Bradley's excellent 5200 rebuild parts available from Best Electronics? http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/5200.htm A little pricier, but they are really, really nice. He has separate parts, too, like pot arms and housings.

Welcome to AA! Hopefully you will like it, and stick around . . . The locals here are very skeptical of people who just arrive to sell things - - and for good reason, as there have been hijinks and shennanigans in the past. Some tips - - - Provide a reference. An established eBay profile that you can prove is yours is a gold standard. A profile on another site where you have sold stuff helps, too. - Name a price. The only other things folks around here seem to go nuts about more than new people selling things is a "For Offer" thread. Pick a starting price and go with it. Heavy sixers complete successfully on eBay for $40-$80 - - (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=atari+heavy+sixer&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&LH_Complete=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=200&_fpos=&_fsct=&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=200) - - and, I note that you have one of the uncommon hard shell cases, which tend to complete for around $50 ( http://atariage.com/forums/topic/150044-atari-2600-carry-case ) Maybe your starting price is $130 + shipping? Those joysticks you have might be the "version 1" with springs inside, instead of the more fragile plastic ring in later versions. You can usually tell by moving the handles and listening to the creaking and clicking of the springs. Or, just pop it open with a phillips head and take some pictures. Those early edition joysticks are not crazy rare, but it could help with your sale. - Lastly, test your stuff, or prepare to have your price negotiated down. "Couldn't test" is a common cry among new sellers, and the experienced buyers stay far away from those offers. Not saying you would do it, but some folks determine an object is non-working, but want to still make the sale, and so say they say they can't test it. I would suggest going here, and trying to figure out how to get it working - - https://atariage.com/howto/connect.html The simple connector you need to connect an old 2600 to a coaxial (cable TV) can be had for less than $2 at Radio Shack. A copy of Combat or another favorite of yours can be had at any game reseller for a buck or less - - they have a battered old bin of 2600 games somewhere in the store, I guarantee it. Again, welcome, and best of luck with your sale! -a2a

Hmm, I will admit - - I haven't used the S-VIDEO much, just once, and I wasn't paying much attention! SO, it could be possible I was having issues on that line, but was using the composite and never noticed . . . ? I think you might have a more careful eye, and possibly a better screen! Do post your final results, though, if you would. It will help someone down the line, and I need to get mine back out and tinker with it some, too!

Not at all - - I'm glad you resurrected it! I need to play with that system a bit more, I've been distracted with COINOPS 6 ! You are correct, and I am remiss - - I never updated on my resolution for the issue. Sorry! I did indeed put the TIA 9 on a hard switch, and simply turned it on it and off when I wanted to go between 2600 and 7800 - - I posted more here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/197026-mod-log-for-7800-with-best-electronics-euro-os-and-littlejoe-video-mod/ But, below is the extract of that: (The TL; DR version - - I just disconnected the TIA 9 and put it on a switch, no resistors added! Color on 7800 is fine when OFF, no bars present, and the 2600 works just fine visually when ON) ### I say ALMOST because there was a bit of a video issue that the perfectionist in me wanted to clean up . . . ! Add-on Disconnect Switch for TIA 9 on the 2600 Circuit of the 7800 Video Mod Turns out the TIA 9 line causes some interference to the 7800 when it is running in 7800 mode, and the best way to deal with it right now is to just turn off/disconnect the TIA 9 line while you are running in 7800 mode (it was discussed here: http://www.atariage....s-on-video-mod/). The video mod board actually switches "off" the TIA 9 automatically, but the automatic switch is a little "leaky" and the interference still comes through. NOTE - - this interference is the sort of thing that only a video and audio FREAK like me is really going to notice! It's only slightly visible on pure black screens, and I feel you have to be looking for it. This "additional" mod is purely optional, but I like to do things 100%, so I went for it! I think that LittleJoe's video mod is EXCELLENT in it's current form, and this to me isn't a negative in any way! It's just the way it is out here in the wild-west of vintage gaming mods . . . ! So, the TIA 9 input is where the blue wire coming off the LOWER LEFT of the board is in this picture - - Usually you just wire this point directly to TIA 9, but what you need to do for this mod is put a SPST (single pole, single throw) switch along that line, and flip it to "disconnect" when you are getting your 7800 mode on. Easy! Finding the right switch, however was a bit more challenging. I settled on a classic RADIO SHACK SPST "soft touch" in black and red, which I thought matched the classic stylings of the 7800 - - Pop a hole in the case - - Wire it up (I used some heat-shrink tubing to cover and clean up my spliced and soldered wires) - - I put the switch right under the "lip" of the 7800, where it has easy access, but doesn't visually affect the look of the console at first-glance - - Console flipped upside down to you can see how well the plastic matches - - And, of course . . . LABELS . . . ! I guess secretly I want to be Captain Picard, as I appear to have used the word "ENGAGE" . . . a subliminal slip? ###

...These are the best necro-bumps of ancient, long-dead posts that I have seen all day! If that Canadian who hasn't actually even logged onto AtariAge since July of 2013 still has that sealed NES game from 2010 . . . that will be amazing. (Just joking with ya' ! But seriously . . . 2010 was a loooooong time ago!)

Nice work! I like the before and after on-screen comparisons of the sharpness and colors. Oh, and I dunno, I'm kinda a fan of circuit board and solder photographs . . . This is on my to-do list, the boards from electronicsentimentalities.com are excellent. I have enjoyed the 2600 video boards and he was a HUGE help on my 7800 video mod! Thanks for sharing!

Can't wait to see it, Christoph - - you guys turn out some very high-quality products! I will be very interested in the details of re-engineering the NES hardware from the ground up, too. Fascinating! Four player without an adapter, as well, nice touch. Any matching Analogue Arcade Stick controllers planned for it, or some sort of special matching controllers for the console (inspired aluminum versions of the small originals)? An aluminum "NES Advantage" would be nifty (and make a great blunt weapon in a pinch!).

Thanks for giving that a try - - and your webstore is amazing, too, by the way, thanks for that as well! You are probably aware of the "competing" project under development (unfair to call it competition, since it's actually the best and most likely game in town), but if not, here's the most recent post on the development forum - - http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?39733-quot-Let-s-make-GD-ROM-emulation-happen-quot-Facebook-group&goto=newpost They are moving rapidly forward! Having you as a distributor would be amazing, and guarantee a high level of reliability - - if they were interested in it, that is! While a very friendly group so far, and open about progress, it still does have a slight "scene" feel to it. In the end, I don't care where it comes from, I just want sweet, sweet Dreamcast gameplay without the GD-ROM grinding away in the background. I have lost count on the number of drives I have replaced on various DC units and lasers I have recalibrated . . . -a2a

The practice of providing unsolicited pricing advice in someone else's thread is also grouped under "thread crapping." It's great to step up and provide some obvious caution for certain things (<ahem>ludicrously priced VGA-graded copies of extremely low-value games), however every single post with a few cartridges or systems does not require comments on the value, or that you think you saw it on eBay for less, or found it at a yard sale for $3, so it must be $3. Something is overpriced? Excellent, let it die quietly and move down the page . . . if the Original Poster asks "why isn't this selling?" it might be time to provide advice, but in general, most people don't want or need other folks commenting on their price choices. Mind you, not everyone shares this opinion, but many major trading forums have adopted it and tend to abide by it. And, those forums tend to be the ones that see the most posts and the higher-quality items.

Very cool, thanks taking the time to type all that up! I agree, this could be a valuable sticky for the forum. Maybe add in something about being respectful and not thread-crapping, too, in the On Pricing and Perfection section? -a2a

Thanks for all the interest in this thread, fellows! It's a topic I've been thinking about for a while, so I appreciate the renewed conversation. It's sometimes hard to make progress just thinking in your own head! Lots of good comments and suggestions here. Among them (thanks, e5frog!) is the one that I tentatively decided on back when I was initially working on it last year - - a simple hard switch. Just a good old physical ON/OFF for the onboard ROM. I got the switch idea from reading about another mod, the "Flashback 2" modification for a cartridge port. Very similar idea - - built in games, and the desire to override those when you insert a cartridge. Your comment, efrog5, made me go back to look for a build-log I had seen of almost that exact same switch you show in your post. I remembered someone adding it into the cartridge port to turn of the internal games. And, as luck would have it, I didn't find that page, and instead came upon a discussion on a website I had previously missed regarding an "automatic selection circuit." I think that circuit would work here in this situation! He uses either a CD4016 or CD4066 CMOS transmission gate to build the circuit. http://www94.pair.com/jsoper/flashback2.html (and, here's a PDF of that page, just in case some day it gets taken down Flashback 2 Cart Mod - Autoswitch.pdf ) HOWEVER, even that author states that "some cartridges still didn't work." So, in the end, I am starting to lean towards the best solution just being a physical switch. Not as classy, but very effective. I agree with you both here, it's not safe for the board or cartridges until some sort of circuit or switch is built - - (Hey, thanks for jumping into the conversation, batari, by the way - - your perspective and engineering mind are very appreciated!) My plan now is to try that CMOS transmission gate circuit, just for fun, and then also that hard switch from cartridge pin 24 on the cartridge slot to ground (as discussed here, which you also quoted - - http://atariage.com/forums/topic/170809-motherboard-differences/?p=2113944). Regarding the hard switch, as I understand it, couldn't you also disable a standard masked ROM by taking pin A12 and grounding it, or "pulling it low" - - that's the correct terminology, yes? Is that also a valid method? Is it a better method than a switch to ground cartridge pin 24? Thanks again for the conversation, I appreciate it . . . !

In general I have discovered, both from reading and from experience, 2k is the max, no bankswitching. If you just simply solder the masked ROM to the board, it's NOT 100% compatible with "everything else" (some carts will work, some won't). Your game you attached directly to the board will always work with no other cartridge in the 2600, and some games inserted in the cart slot will boot, some won't. I recommend soldering a socket to the board, soldering the masked ROM to ANOTHER socket, and then using THAT to test various masked ROMs stolen from cartridges. This lets you "undo" anything that doesn't work, and makes the project modular. I used this list to make a first-pass of potential ROMs to use: http://www.classic-games.com/atari2600/bankswitch.html Here's some example pictures - - (Last shot here, you can see the "stacked" sockets that make it modular. That is me playing Combat, directly off the board) ** If anyone wants to help figure it out, the secret to this whole problem lies here, in these words - - http://atariage.com/forums/topic/107504-heavy-sixer-pcb-question/?p=1301954 He even later says there's a way to make 4k games work, too - - http://atariage.com/forums/topic/170809-motherboard-differences/?p=2113850 Anyone know? It'd be a great thing to figure out! I'm just not a good enough electrical engineer to know WHERE to solder the resistors and make the circuit! I need specifics, not theory! -a2a

Ugh, no, I'm stuck! There's some way in which the ATARI can recognize when a cartridge with a ROM is inserted, and so NOT attempt to run the soldered-on ROM. But I don't know what that "switching circuit" is or requires! AJ Franzman mentions it here, but never details what it is, exactly - - http://atariage.com/forums/topic/107504-heavy-sixer-pcb-question/?p=1301954 The "switching circuit" is the "pullup" that he mentions. I'd love to finish this project, I've got several boards now with soldered-on ROMS, it's lots of fun to just power it on with no cartridge and play PITFALL or DONKEY KONG, but I'd love to be able to insert any cartridge and have the ATARI "sense low" and ignore that soldered-on ROM! Any help would be very welcome! -a2a

Wow, that's a lot of excellent sealed games! Some TurboGrafx games, too, very cool, and even a few fun things, like transparent shells for other consoles. Those customs horror-stories sound terrible, though - - ripping open sealed games, in the name of the War on Drugs . . . what a waste. -a2a

Not 100% sure, but I think that might be the accessory gun to a NES-on-a-chip pirate system like the "Power Play Super Joy" or other similar systems - - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_Player_Super_Joy_III I can't find a good image example online, but I know that I had one of those systems with a light gun just like that, including the connector, pass through my hands at one point... -a2a

Oh, THAT'S where I buried this body! Glad you dug it up, was wondering when I would see it again...gotta check the pockets, see if I forgot anything... -a2a

Unfortunately, Yurkie, FreeMcBoot does not unlock the ability to load non-original PS1 games. It is apparently not feasible based on the type of exploit used by FreeMcBoot to "hook" the hardware and boot. An original PS1 disc is still required to start the boot sequence for the PS1 hardware. Pity, as that would be an excellent feature . . . ! FreeMcBoot is still an excellent piece of software, however, highly recommended. -a2a

Dave's got an active sales thread for NES games over at NintendoAge, too, with some recent successful transactions and positive reviews - - http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=6&threadid=97435 Nice looking NES stuff there, Dave. Good luck with the sales! Shoot me a PM if you ever figure out what are on those ROM ICs . . . -a2a

All gone, just dropped the package off at UPS, actually. Sorry! Thanks for the interest, though! If you need fresh switches, check out BEST ELECTRONICS in California. Nice, shiny, like-new ones for sale there - - the ones I was offering are (sorta) working pulls from machines I have refurbished. -a2a

Last call - - I'll just craigslist "free" post it here shortly if no ones wants it . . . The craigslist "free" section amazes me - - doesn't matter what you post, someone always calls and wants it, usually within minutes. Kind of strange, but incredibly useful. Let me know!

R6 and R7 also added ATARI 7800 support, as well as ATARI 5200 ! R8 is out as of yesterday, but mostly it appears to be additional testing efforts and bughunts for lightgun support. Don't get caught up in the "arms race" of CoinOps revisions. Definitely Stick with Mark's advice to select and stay with stable CoinOps builds until other "power" users who have time to burn in testing give the thumbs up for advancing forward to the next benchmark. R6 seems like the best, most current build until the lightgun kerfluffle gets figured out. Very exciting, though - - lightgun support it will make a LOT of great games actually playable! Engage Mark's services, get an XBOX today! You won't regret it . . . -a2a

Everyone love FREE STUFF, right? Here's the deal - - - Several Ziploc bags of parts from my refurbishing work over the last few years - 2600 joystick tops, bottoms, cords, slider switches, joystick PCBs, potentiometers from paddles, cart shells, etc. A partial 7800 controller. - One VERY yellow SNES that I salvaged some parts from - Everything was replaced for a reason, so switches, wires, etc. are likely to have defects! I hate to throw stuff away, though, so I have been saving it. Maybe you want it? HOW TO GET THE STUFF - - All or nothing deal! If you are interested, **YOU** will generate a shipping label, make it into a PDF and send it to me. I'll package it up and drop it off at the Post Office, UPS, or whatever it is that you choose. That's the ONLY way I'm running this - - the person who contacts me first and is willing to generate the pre-paid label themselves gets the goods! 14 pounds, which includes box/packaging and padding, coming from ZIP code 80401 Hope somebody can use it! -a2a

Check Assemblergames.com's forums - - they seem to have a very active XBOX dev sale and trading group! http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?8-The-ASSEMblergames-User-Marketplace -a2a

SOLD to a nice gentleman "across the water" - - THANKS!! Don't hate! I know some of you are emotional about the re-selling of homebrews . . . However, I just simply decided not to keep the copy that I bought. All I want is what I have in it! It cost me $115 to get it here, and that plus the cost of whatever it takes to ship it to you is all I ask, including fees, bribes at the border, personal messenger pigeon delivery costs, etc . . . First in with money in hand, no drama or hold requests, etc., gets it! This is one of the fully boxed, sealed copies that comes with manual and coloring sheet - - number "B7" THANKS! -a2a