atari2atari

Whew, glad you did tell them - - keeping our local Denver ATARI scene clean, I appreciate it! I wonder if they knew and were hopeful, or if you really caught a mistake? -a2a

Thanks again for all the encouragement, Atarians! I am pleased to report that several people on craiglist have also appreciated the work, and I sold a few already! I just posted a new package up tonight, a super-nice 4-switch SEARS TELE-GAMES with WICO BOSS sticks and a SWEET collection of ACTIVISION games and manuals: http://denver.craigslist.org/clt/2097181171.html Threw in both of the ATARI TRON games, too, in celebration of the upcoming new movie release! Love that retro start screen! -a2a

As well, Condor Attack and Karate just popped up out here in Denver for $400 "OBO": http://denver.craigslist.org/vgm/2096217393.html Also not mine! :-)

It does help a lot - - I use the Epyx 500 joysticks, and the electromagnetic feedback from the microswitches alone can cause static on the screen during playing. I put ferrite chokes on the joysticks, AND on the RF line and the static is gone. The static effect without ferrite chokes is less on my light sixers with the thick, cast-aluminum shield, but again, it's present, and goes away completely with ferrite chokes. With regular joysticks, I get static when the fridge goes on, or the furnace fan kicks on. You can get ferrite chokes at Radio Shack. About $6.00 for a big one to put on the RF line (I like to wrap it through, to hold and get more electromagnetic reduction) and the smaller ones are about $3.00 for a bag of two, suitable for joysticks. Ferrite chokes are actually on almost every electronic device around - - they are a thick knob somewhere on the line, you likely just never noticed them! -a2a

Thanks SO much for your input, all of you - - I really appreciate it! I agree, getting established will be key. Determining good "mixes" of carts to offer will be a good move, too. I think based on the input, and some preliminary interest happening already on craigslist, I will start pricing down around $90, depending on what mix of carts or "extras" I include (WICO controllers, "Game Centers," or extra paddles, etc.) Maybe increasing the "cart-count" to 40 would justify the price, as well. Thanks again, you guys ROCK! -a2a

A question for all you Atarians out there - - How much is reasonable to ask for a 100% refurbished 2600 4-switch or light 6-switch console with two refurbished joysticks and a loose cartridge collection? I have been rebuilding them for fun, but five or six consoles is way too much to have on hand, so I am craigslisting some! A link to my sample posting is down below. 4Jays asks $80+shipping for a four-switch (not refurbished?), plus you get ten boxed games: 4Jays Atari 2600 Packages And, Best Electronics asks $90 for a 2600A, with a single boxed game and some extras, similar to my package idea: Best Electronics 2600 Packages Here's my current posting - - it's priced high now, but what's a reasonable amount to ask that respects my time invested, but the market value as well? Thanks for any advice! http://denver.craigslist.org/vgm/2087964053.html

I had similar graphical problems on a light sixer a few weeks ago, although usually the game would start fine, begin resetting less than a minute in, and then would start producing graphical glitches. Replacing the RIOT IC solved the problem. I would recommend Best Electronics, both for a RIOT IC (he calls them "Atari I/O Chip CO10750 $8.00") and for a replacement, new-in-the-box DC adapter: Parts List Power Supply Order some joystick replacment parts, too, while you are there - - his upgraded parts are well worth it! -a2a

THANK YOU Mr. Franzman! :-) You were one of the "sources" that I had been reading last week in other posts. I appreciate you weighing in. Yes, grounding - - makes sense to me! I had been staring at the board on my workbench all this week, and looking at other pictures on the Internet and thinking "maybe it's *supposed* to be that way?" I am really glad you confirmed that suspicion. Yes, the Zener diodes are in place, as you guessed, probably done during its "Factory Reconditioned" visit. Good call on the electrolytic caps, I may do that. I am looking forward to putting this one back in the case and using it - - on the test runs after replacing the RIOT I was amazed at the color quality and crispness of the image in comparison to the 4-switch Tele-Games from just a few years later that I also have! A ferrite choke or two on the video cable, and this baby will be ready for years of enjoyment. I am thrilled I found this six-switcher. Thanks again for your help! a2a

EDIT Redacted, based on this comment in this thread: Apologies - - I was fooled by the "Factory Refurbished" aspects of the unit, the early PCB revisions, and the cast aluminum RF shield, which I realize are on some later units as well. a2a

Pitfall II! I am currently remembering how much I played this game back in the day, and totally enjoying getting back into it! a2a

Another one for the record, although it looks like the master list on the 1st page has not been updated since 2009? Sears Tele-Games Heavy Sixer, Factory Refurbished at some point, no dates or information on paper taped to shielding, apparently has an updated switchboard (?) with channel select switch. (Looks like someone didn't like the fact this said "Factory Reconditioned!") SERIAL NUMBER: 84352U And, some board revision shots: MAINBOARD: CO10433 REVB SWITCHBOARD: CO12173 REV.1 Unit works now, and I am in the process of making further repairs and restoration (thread with pictures, and a few questions if you are feeling helpful is over here: Replaced RIOT - Other Maintenance While I Am In There?) a2a

Thank you so much for your response! Yes, carpet is not an optimum work-surface - - I did all the IC replacement at the workbench, and then the final "test" I had to lay out on carpet to get close to the TV. Next time I will lay it on a board on the carpet. Wow, GREAT picture of the "dot," thank you so much - - DO you think that clear nail polish would be acceptable as a substitute, or will that cause grief 5-10 years down the road? I can always just cut a square of paper and place it under the J200, too. Thanks for advice on foil-attached-to-housing, too. Regarding the console's "provenance" it's interesting to hear you think it was a retrofitted "no-channel switch." I am very curious about its origins. The case actually HAS a channel switch hole on the bottom, so I wonder if it was indeed retrofitted, did they replace the case, too? I wonder if the switch stickers and serial numbers at that time, too. All very interesting, I hope some other people chime in with other "preventative maintenance." Power regulators? Worth preemptively switching? Thanks! a2a

Greetings, Atarians Thanks to you all (yes, you!) I have almost successfully repaired a Sears Tele-Games six-switch console from 1978 (or late 77 – it has been “Factory Reconditioned” at least once in its life, and a mix of parts is possible?). I'll tell you about it (with pictures!) and then I have a few QUESTIONS, if anyone is up for it. (Just the shell, took this after I toredown, sorry!) (Looks like someone didn't like the fact this said "Factory Reconditioned!") (I ignored this last warning sticker, as I didn't really believe it! ) The sixer would initially play a game when started from COLD, about one minute in it would "reset" the cartridge, as if the console had been powered on again. After the "reset" you could keep trying to play the game, but it would reset more rapidly now, and in under two minutes the display would switch to scrolling diagonal grey and black lines, and then finally a black screen. Attempts to power-cycle it with a new cartridge would only result in a black screen. On cool-down (two or three hours), it would repeat the symptoms. From my reading on the forums here and the Atari service manual, it sounded like the RIOT (Ram/Input/Output/Timer) (part # CO10750) chip could be bad. I scored a batch of RIOTs and a few others chips (another single RIOT, a lone TIA, and three 6507 CPUs) on eBay for under $23, shipped (yay!). Tore down the sixer, replaced the RIOT, strung it all together on the carpet to test it, and the problem SEEMS resolved (QUESTIONS after pictures!). (back of the "new" RIOT chip I put in) (my handy IC inserter, which is a bit overkill, but it sure provides nice even pressure) (Like my carpet? I don't! Came with the house, it's about as old as the Atari is . . . ) (my other four-switch Tele-Games off the the left there) (Love this game cartridge - - it's the best! ) SO . . . QUESTION 1 – was the RIOT really the issue, or is there something else that will crop back up once I bolt back together this cast-aluminum beast! On teardown I noticed that the BOTTOM aluminum shielding, the thinner one under the cast bit and mainboard, had been rubbing on the mainboard: I will cover up that rubpoint, likely just with thin cardboard (suggestions?), when I rebuild, but if that had REALLY been a problem, it would short things out immediately, wouldn’t it have, not the delayed response I was seeing? QUESTION 2 – While I am in here, is there OTHER “preventative maintenance” that I should perform? I know . . . “if it ain’t broke . . .” ! I am not thinking of re-soldering everything, or other time-wasting, but in my reading over the last week, there are a lot of components mentioned as being “problems” or “culprits” for various issues, and so if I am here inside the machine, I wouldn’t mind getting some “good to do, if you want” preventative maintenance done. Suggestions? Here's a shot of the mainboard again, and then some ideas I've had continue after the picture: I already have a right-angle power jack on order from Best Electronics, and will re-solder that new one on. The current one is “loose” and the power adapter can wiggle around in there and reset the console sometimes. Got some new static strips and foam donuts for the switches from another source, too, so I will replace those as well. Oh, should the ends of the static strip be attached to the cast aluminum, as they were on this unit originally? (Picture again, for reference) That’s how it looks in the Field Manual, the ends of the strips tape to the cast shield, but just askin’ . . . No hairline fractures observed in any solder I saw, so that’s good. I looked for the “uncovered trace” near the J200, but am not certain which of these SHOULD be covered by the “colored dot,” or maybe this revision of mainboard has that problem etched out of it? The mainboard states “Revision B” - - is that an early one, and should I cover something here? (near the J200, where there should be a "paper dot?") (mainboard revision number, for your pleasure) (switchboard revision number, also for your joy) There were issues mentioned in some posts about the switchboard’s capacitors - - is there any utility in “freshening up” them or any of the power supply ones? What about the RCA jack - - is it worth it to get a new one, maybe with gold contacts, and solder and replace the old one? I want to keep it “old school,” so no composite outputs or anything are planned. So, in the end maybe there is nothing to do, but I will welcome any ideas or things you think I should look at! Thanks so much, fellow enthusiasts! a2a

If that's the case, and I believe it, then the old standard of Best Electronics is your friend for a Sears 4-switcher motherboard: Go here Best Electronics Parts Page and look for the line "Atari 2600 NTSC/US Populated Motherboard CA010434 $35.00 (two versions used, E-Mail Sales)" I don't think I am telling you anything new, though, as you are a 900+ poster around here, and you were probably REALLY asking if there is a difference between the Sears and Atari models! :-) a2a