atari2atari
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Posts posted by atari2atari
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Time will tell what it really is.
Or, just open it up and find out!
Alternately, run PITFALL II on it, and see if you get the same issues with pixels on the left-hand side of the screen that I observed here, and then you will know if it is a "unicorn" or not - -
Unicorn Boards and Harmony Cart Menus - Single-chip 2600 Compatibility? - Post #11
That thread post has the following this video in it - -
-a2a
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Maybe the 'Marketplace' forum? You might generate some interest there . . .
-a2a
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Out of curiosity, what is the serial number on the bottom? That can also be an indicator, or at least help us to date your Junior . . .-a2a
long rainbow
X 11A4 304699
Atari Corporation
Made In China
PAL-B
I'm thinking not a unicorn, based on that serial number, from this thread, "Atari 2600jr Unicorn", (that you were also participating in, I note) - -
I've finally come across one of these. Single chip C101688. My Harmony (1.3 firmware) doesn't seem to work with it, going to have give the latest firmware a try.
Is there anything external that identifies it as being single chip?
Nothing definitive but it seems like serial number that begins with A19 are those made in 1990's and would have a single chip board.
But, it's always worth cracking it open and taking a look! Or, at least, that's my philosophy as a hardware guy!
-a2a
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So mine is a regular Junior right? (1991 made in China)
Probably not a unicorn, no, however I've been working with one of these "unicorn boards" recently (see this thread, "Unicorn Boards and Harmony Cart Menus - Single-chip 2600 Compatibility?," for some discussion on it) and also examined and opened quite a few Atari 2600 Jrs. looking for more "unicorns. " I don't think that the "waffle type" PCB is always a clear indicator.
The best way to know is to open her up and take a look!
Out of curiosity, what is the serial number on the bottom? That can also be an indicator, or at least help us to date your Junior . . .
-a2a
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Tonight when I am back at the house I will take some pictures or try and do a video capture of the screen.
You know what I need? I need a REAL video capture card, not a FLIP camera!
You'd think a professional IT guy would have a few video capture cards around, but apparently it's all just OUTPUT cards . . . I'll add it to the list.
Anyways, APOLOGIES in advance - - it is, well, just like filming a TV with a hand-held camera.
I added an excellent (or annoying, depending on your view) remix of the PITFALL II music to entertain you.
Note the extra pixel action on the left-hand side of the screen - - I zoom into it a few times for detail. And then compare it to the LACK of extra pixels on a standard four-switch (also video modded for composite output)
I think I will re-record this when I get a better capture card and try to redeem myself . . .
-a2a
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Anybody hook me Gameboy Advanced flash card with mother 3/earthbound 2 in english that also saves?
Here's a post that might interest you, and actually be of use - - nice MOTHER 3 repros on NintendoAge!
http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=6&threadid=67548
Looks like the initial run is done, however, and so now it's a secondary interest list?
If you can't wait, these are the two best, CURRENT sources for the EZ Flash IV, which in my opinion is the best GBA flash cart out there for the money - -
http://r4-3.com/ezflash-iv-mini-gba-card-ez4-for-nintendo-gba-ds-ds-lite-p-19.html
http://www.r4ds-ds.com/products/EZ-Flash-iV-mini-GBA-Card-For-GBA-gameboy-advance-sp-p-239.html
Some also like this unit, but I have no personal experience - -
http://www.ps2cover.com/products/Supercard-SD.html#reviews
Hope that helps!
-a2a
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I wonder what other games are dependent on HMOVE in this manner, and would also distort?
Some homebrews (e.g. Halo) use early HMOVEs to avoid the HMOVE blanks showing up.
For Harmony, I suppose an early HMOVE which ends at cycle 74 is the problem.
Ah, thank you, Thomas!
I will try out HALO 2600 and see if I can get the same "staggering pixel" effect.
I am curious to see what all the compatibility issues with these single-chip ATARI 2600 units are, such as different games!
It would be interesting if Atari had inadvertently designed a single-chip solution that did not support ALL of the known programming functions!
I will say that I have observed some VERY interesting behaviour on the left-hand side of the screen in the "HMOVE zone" (my personal term for it, probably inappropriate) during games of PITFALL II running off a native cartridge. I've never seen patterns like that before during a game of PITFALL II. The game plays just fine, but there is SOMETHING new going on there in the margin . . . !
Tonight when I am back at the house I will take some pictures or try and do a video capture of the screen.
-a2a
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I think the current versions of dumpers are small, under 2k and they actually copy the program to RAM and execute there so they are running when the cart to be read is inserted.
I will look into what's available for ROMs of dumpers - - it's a great suggestion! I was also considering a SYNTHCART ROM as a candidate, too.
This project is part of a larger one for me that includes trying to install ROMs into light and heavy sixers, as well, using the installation location that was designed into the boards, but not used in the final production models.
I may just keep this single-chip "unicorn" somewhat pristine, though, and not alter it much more than another switch to disable the on-board ROM and try to increase compatibility with other cartridge games.
I'll likely try a dumper with a light sixer unit, however!
The "trick" with a built-in ROM with a dumping program and this setup or any other built-in ROM setup would be finding a way to get the built-in ROM to read what was in the cartridge slot WITHOUT having a bus contention.
It will take some work to determine how that would funtion. I confess that at first pass, I am not certain it is do-able.
You could sandwich the inverter circuitry between 2 sockets with bent pins...
No need, there is a spot for it on the motherboard, or it could go direct to the required pin(s) on the EPROM
And while I don't think anything will happen, but I'm sure plugging carts in live is not "Good" and I would feel bad it smoke started coming out.
I'm sure it isn't either, but in the name of experimentation I think it's worth doing at least once. I have not tried plugging in a cartridge while the on-board ROM is running, I should try it at least once. I'm sure it will just be the usual scrambled Atari 2600 screen, like pulling a cart out while the power is on, and no permanent damage to either the on-board or cartridge ROM typically happens.
Don't worry, I won't hold you responsible if it catches on fire and explodes!
However, I might try it first on the light sixer that I have with a built-in ROM installed in it, too!
-a2a
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Thanks for reading and responding, Pioneer!
With the way the motherboard is wired, you can have either a 4k or a 2k ROM on-board. No bank-switched ROMs, as I understand.
I am not certain what the specs are on a cart dumper ROM, such as how large it is.
Also, if the ROM is not a general manufactured mask ROM, but an EPROM instead, which I suspect any dumper ROM would be, then you need to place an inverter into the circuit on the board so you can properly activate the EPROM - - EPROM integrated circuits are turned "on" in a different way than mask ROMs, which an inverter would accommodate. Right now, with the default factory wiring, the motherboard can only accommodate mask ROMs.
I have not tried plugging in a cart while playing the on-board ROM - - I'll give it a go. I imagine that you just get bus contention, and have to restart.
-a2a
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Thanks, batari!
That helps me to understand that at least it's not the nature of the pre-production HARMONY cart I am using, and probably lies in an issue with the nature of the single-chip.
It also helps that it is not a bus contention issue with the installed on-board ROM. I guess that a bus contention would just simply result in a no-boot situation!
I appreciate the insight - - good observation, it IS off by one pixel on each line as it descends!
I wonder what other games are dependent on HMOVE in this manner, and would also distort?
I'll keep you posted as I move forward. Next I need to design a switch to disable the on-board ROM to allow certain other games to boot. Classic sensitive carts like DECATHALON and SPACE SHUTTLE are a non-starter on this unit right now, due to bus contention with the installed game, I imagine.
THANKS!!
-a2a
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Greetings, Atarians!
Some tales from the workbench, and a request for assistance. First, the story and some background, and then the question(s).
I recently modded a single-chip ATARI 2600 Junior to accommodate a built-in game ROM, as it was designed. Quite simply, if NO cartridge is placed in the console and it is turned on, the console plays the built-in game.
These so-called "unicorn boards" have been covered in a few historical threads here on AtariAge - -
http://www.atariage....2600jr-unicorn/ (2011, thread on compatibility with HARMONY cartridge)
http://www.atariage....-unique-2600jr/ (2010, a general thread on the unicorn board)
and, DigitalPress link to the schematics for the single-chip unit - - http://www.digitpres...s/index.htm#vcs (choose the Atari 2100 "JAN" single chip link in the list)
Here's my shots from the before-after install. I also added a simple transistor/resistor video mod while I was in there (just mono, no stereo mod, because I didn't want to start pulling pins on the chip needed for AUD0 and AUD1 !)
The motherboard, before adding the built-in ROM, but after installing the video mod
Blank area of the board where the ROM was to be installed at the factory
Detail of the board revision number
I installed a 24-pin socket to receive the ROM
I chose PITFALL! as my installed ROM, and placed it in ANOTHER machine-tooled 24-pin IC socket, which would allow me to stack IC sockets on the motherboard for some form of modularity, in case I wanted to swap installed games on the "unicorn." 4k ROMs are apparently the maximum that the board can take. (See the schematics at DigitalPress and the threads referenced above)
I could think of NO better 4k ROM than PITFALL!, a brilliant use of every ounce of available space!
Socketed in, and all ready to go!
Buttoning it all up . . .
I use some serious "strain relief" in my direct, "corded" video mods to prevent ANY chance of the cord getting pulled and wrecking the electronic work inside!
And, it works! Brilliantly! It plays PITFALL! if there is no cartridge plugged in, and for SOME games, when you load a cartridge, it disables the on-board ROM and you can play the game!
More on that compatibility later - - it's a GIANT topic, and one I also have questions on, and you'll see more posts soon in the general 2600 forum area, and questions on the light/heavy sixers with built-in games, too. There is still some work to be done in order to maximize compatibility, and wire in a "kill-switch" that disables the ROM totally to do so. You'll see this topic again, no doubt!
This, however, is a HARMONY CARTRIDGE question.
Still with me?
So, I popped in my HARMONY cart, and despite what I had read about needing to short certain pins on the cartridge slot in order to get it to work, it DOES boot up.
The menu is skewed, however, and not easily readable! I can navigate the menu, go to sub-menus, and actually even select and launch ROMs . . . but I can't really read what I am doing, and have to operate by memory!
Once a game is launched, there is no more graphical distortion, and everything plays as expected, for at least the half a dozen games I tried from the illegible menu.
Another possible clue to the answers, maybe - - I am using a HARMONY pre-production cart that I traded with another member to get - -
The SPECIFIC question - -
- What do I do to the motherboard in order to regain what is apparently a graphical issue with this HARMONY cart that I have (the pre-production one) as well as any other HARMONY cart (important!)
Thanks for reading all of that, and I welcome any and all suggestions, questions, and ideas!
-a2a
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Very nice transparent yellow NIB Dreamcast case on eBay UK - -
eBay Auction -- Item Number: 231bb5cb29
I would be interested, but I already have my blue transparent one for my Dreamcast, and am quite pleased with it.
I wonder if this is the same guy who posted this nice video "mod log" of illuminating a yellow case?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfNL0tOjqCQ
The ending with the music is kinda funny . . .
He's got some other good video logs, too - - check out his channel. The backlit Dreamcast VMU mod is one I have been wanting to do for a while . . .
-a2a
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I've been following this tread for quite a while now and am pleased to let all the PAL users know that a good working PAL 2600 mod is on its way and will be available for sale as of the beginning of April, 2012!
We are a small business operating in Victoria, Australia and will be offering all our modded systems for sale worldwide at www.retrofix.com.au. With over 2 years experience with console modification services and sales we have had much interest locally in finding a good 2600 mod so after a few months of testing and changes finally have what we believe to be an excellent clarity S-Video & Composite mod using the FMS6400CS.
My apologies if this seems like advertising but I just thought there might be a few PAL users hanging out for a quality working & available mod
That would be great!
I have a few 2600 PAL consoles that I have tried various video mods on, and I always get black and white output. This will be a welcome update.
You should post up in the "Marketplace" when your website goes live . . .
-a2a
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Okay, an update, for anyone that is following this!
This company seems to be among the best I have discovered for quality cases - -
http://www.sleevetown.com/cd-case-single.shtml
Not a bad price, either - - looks like I can get 50 crystal clear cases for about $24, plus shipping.
Now, that eBay seller wrote back (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&icep_item=350544866616&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), and is willing to sell about 50 of those NFL 2k for $50, plus shipping. Only trick is, some of the cases have that NFL hologram sticker on the CASE itself, and some are on the instruction manual. They would peel of the case no problem - - I would hope - - but it's extra work, too.
So, now I have a choice to make . . .
Any thoughts? I am tempted to go with "SleeveTown" - - they look like good audiophiles!
-a2a
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Thanks, Yurkie!
Those don't look too bad - - the only caveat for collectors is that the "regular" CD cases like these have the raised "Compact Disc logo" on the inner tray, and the actual Dreamcast cases never did.
Here's an image grab from Google Images, for example:
Dreamcast games were GD-Rom discs, so they didn't need/couldn't put the "Compact Disc" on the inner tray!
A minor picky detail, I know, I know!
I can re-use some of the inner trays I have from my current Dreamcast discs, but some of the disc-holders are cracked, too, so it's not always an option.
I have also seen generic CD cases WITHOUT the compact disc logo, so the hunt continues . . .
-a2a
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Hmm, this is what I am talking about - -
eBay Auction -- Item Number: 350544866616
That's about a little over a dollar per case (if you take into account shipping) - - not a bad deal to get the real "feel" of the Dreamcast case.
Anyone interested in going in with me . . . ?
-a2a
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I have used the std single jewel cases from K-Mart. They are clear (no black center like audio cases).
bah
Thanks, bah! Appreciate the input.
I have eyeballed a few sets at Target and Office Depot as well, and was curious what other collectors were using . . .
Anyone else have any favorite vendors or brands?
-a2a
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Hi!
I'm looking for some advice on replacement Dreamcast CD cases.
I have seen quite a few on Amazon that look suitable, such as - -
http://www.amazon.com/Memorex-Jewel-Cases-Clear-Tray/dp/B000067VC6/ref=pd_cp_e_2
And here's some "chubby" double CD ones, which I also need
As those of you who collect Dreamcast know, the original cases have a certain "thickness" and "shine" to them that is hard to imitate. The double CD cases are tricky to find, too.
What have fellow collectors used or who have you bought from? SQUARE DEAL there on Amazon looks ok, but . . . .
The other alternative I have heard is to purchase a lot of some sports title, discard the contents, and use the cases, which I am also considering!
Thanks for any advice!
-a2a
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Can't say enough good things about my "fully modded" system from Yurkie.
The BIOS skip is great, the pause button is super-handy, and the cord-straightening for the controllers solved a problem that has LONG vexed me!
Oh, and the custom machined "knobs" to replace the un-ergonomic ColecoVision controllers are sheer genius!
Well worth the money, and I would have paid more given the quality of the work. It is a BARGAIN at this price!
A+++
-a2a
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Hey, cool! Thanks for the detail.
I've been following low_budget's development of his 5200 video mod. The new version 2.0 is out - - or soon to be out - - and I am very interested to hear what the user feedback will be on that improved edition!
-a2a
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That's great! Thanks for your offer and support to the community!
Can you provide some more information on the methods and video mod boards and versions you provide?
I, and probably others on here, are well-versed in the different options for mods, for instance Longhorn boards versus transistor mods versus simple resistor mods . . .
For instance, how do your 5200 video mods compare to the new video mod by user "low_budget" - -
http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/193474-better-atari-5200-s-video-mod/
I'm just curious, and it might help your sales to have more detail!
Thanks!
-a2a
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Hi everyone. I'm new here and plan to stay. The name is Jim. I Just got back into Atari 8 bit a year ago. I have a question to start with here that goes all the way back to the 80s. I've had a half dozen or so 1050 drives. The first one I got almost brand new back in the 80s. It had a latch door that closed a few degrees past 180. I ended up giving that drive along with my entire collection away a few years later. When I got back into this a year ago, I got another couple 1050 drives. One of them had a latch door that stopped at 180 degrees exactly. The other stopped a few degrees past 180. Just like the one I had before. They have different labels on the bottom and the insides are slightly different. The case tops are not interchangeable. They are identical on the outside except for the labels on the bottom and the latch doors closing at slightly different degrees. Can anyone explain this? Is one version newer than the other? I've always wondered about this. Jim U
Hi, Jim! Welcome to AtariAge!
I don't have an answer, but the folks over in the 8-bit computer section might . . .
I find that some folks don't stray far from their preferred areas of the forums, and so some very knowledgeable people in the 8-bit computer area who might be able to answer this question might never see this thread and your question . . . !
Try posing it again over in the 8-bit area?
http://www.atariage.com/forums/forum/12-atari-8-bit-computers/
-a2a
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These are fantastic! Great work, guys!
I'd grab a few, however, I JUST pre-ordered the upcoming Mega EverDrive (Deluxe Edition) last week and am feeling tapped out in the Genesis department!
I'll definitely come back around later, though - - you guys are a credit to the community!
Which of these are the unique, unreleased prototypes that "no one else has access to the ROMs?"
It looked like it might be these - -
Stone Protectors
Unreleased Prototype
Dragon's Lair
Unreleased Prototype
Itchy and Scratchy
Unreleased
Fido Dido
Unreleased Prototype
Jelly Boy
Unreleased Prototype
Or are some of these "out there" to be found . . . ?
-a2a
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I actually had the EXACT same issue with my Longhorn mod on my 7800 (diagonal lines). Went back and forth with him a few times, and ended up getting my money back.
Thanks for the info!
I am VERY optimistic however on a resistor fix on TIA 9 !
My early experiments with the resistors I had available, such as a 330 Ohm - - the lowest I had on-hand - - were excellent! I bought a few 100 and 10 Ohm resistors, but the board was no longer working by the time I had those, so I could not confirm.
I think the 10 or 100 Ohm resistor on the TIA 9 line right before it enters the video mod board will solve the problem.
LittleJoe has offered to help me out and possibly repair my video mod board, if that's the problem, so I am shipping the goods to him this week.
I will let you all know how it goes, and what the final outcome is!
It's a beautiful mod, I do want it to work . . .
-a2a
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A unique 2600JR?
in Atari 2600
Posted
And LittleJoe - -
http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/196368-unicorn-boards-and-harmony-cart-menus-single-chip-2600-compatibility/page__view__findpost__p__2498702
And, AtariJoe - -
http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/180077-atari-2600jr-unicorn/page__view__findpost__p__2261133
I'd say they are more common than we know, it's just that most folks don't crack 'em open and find out!
The ability to build-in a 4k or 2k mask ROM, however, makes these VERY cool!
The one I just did up with PITFALL built in is a lot of fun!
-a2a