atari2atari

Okay, an update, for anyone that is following this! This company seems to be among the best I have discovered for quality cases - - http://www.sleevetown.com/cd-case-single.shtml Not a bad price, either - - looks like I can get 50 crystal clear cases for about $24, plus shipping. Now, that eBay seller wrote back (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&icep_item=350544866616&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), and is willing to sell about 50 of those NFL 2k for $50, plus shipping. Only trick is, some of the cases have that NFL hologram sticker on the CASE itself, and some are on the instruction manual. They would peel of the case no problem - - I would hope - - but it's extra work, too. So, now I have a choice to make . . . Any thoughts? I am tempted to go with "SleeveTown" - - they look like good audiophiles! -a2a

Thanks, Yurkie! Those don't look too bad - - the only caveat for collectors is that the "regular" CD cases like these have the raised "Compact Disc logo" on the inner tray, and the actual Dreamcast cases never did. Here's an image grab from Google Images, for example: Dreamcast games were GD-Rom discs, so they didn't need/couldn't put the "Compact Disc" on the inner tray! A minor picky detail, I know, I know! I can re-use some of the inner trays I have from my current Dreamcast discs, but some of the disc-holders are cracked, too, so it's not always an option. I have also seen generic CD cases WITHOUT the compact disc logo, so the hunt continues . . . -a2a

Hmm, this is what I am talking about - - eBay Auction -- Item Number: 350544866616 That's about a little over a dollar per case (if you take into account shipping) - - not a bad deal to get the real "feel" of the Dreamcast case. Anyone interested in going in with me . . . ? -a2a

Thanks, bah! Appreciate the input. I have eyeballed a few sets at Target and Office Depot as well, and was curious what other collectors were using . . . Anyone else have any favorite vendors or brands? -a2a

Hi! I'm looking for some advice on replacement Dreamcast CD cases. I have seen quite a few on Amazon that look suitable, such as - - http://www.amazon.com/Memorex-Jewel-Cases-Clear-Tray/dp/B000067VC6/ref=pd_cp_e_2 And here's some "chubby" double CD ones, which I also need http://www.amazon.com/DOUBLE-THICK-CHUBBY-JEWEL-CD2R24DG/dp/B001JPDK1G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333377341&sr=1-1 As those of you who collect Dreamcast know, the original cases have a certain "thickness" and "shine" to them that is hard to imitate. The double CD cases are tricky to find, too. What have fellow collectors used or who have you bought from? SQUARE DEAL there on Amazon looks ok, but . . . . The other alternative I have heard is to purchase a lot of some sports title, discard the contents, and use the cases, which I am also considering! Thanks for any advice! -a2a

Can't say enough good things about my "fully modded" system from Yurkie. The BIOS skip is great, the pause button is super-handy, and the cord-straightening for the controllers solved a problem that has LONG vexed me! Oh, and the custom machined "knobs" to replace the un-ergonomic ColecoVision controllers are sheer genius! Well worth the money, and I would have paid more given the quality of the work. It is a BARGAIN at this price! A+++ -a2a

Hey, cool! Thanks for the detail. I've been following low_budget's development of his 5200 video mod. The new version 2.0 is out - - or soon to be out - - and I am very interested to hear what the user feedback will be on that improved edition! -a2a

That's great! Thanks for your offer and support to the community! Can you provide some more information on the methods and video mod boards and versions you provide? I, and probably others on here, are well-versed in the different options for mods, for instance Longhorn boards versus transistor mods versus simple resistor mods . . . For instance, how do your 5200 video mods compare to the new video mod by user "low_budget" - - http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/193474-better-atari-5200-s-video-mod/ I'm just curious, and it might help your sales to have more detail! Thanks! -a2a

Hi, Jim! Welcome to AtariAge! I don't have an answer, but the folks over in the 8-bit computer section might . . . I find that some folks don't stray far from their preferred areas of the forums, and so some very knowledgeable people in the 8-bit computer area who might be able to answer this question might never see this thread and your question . . . ! Try posing it again over in the 8-bit area? http://www.atariage.com/forums/forum/12-atari-8-bit-computers/ -a2a

These are fantastic! Great work, guys! I'd grab a few, however, I JUST pre-ordered the upcoming Mega EverDrive (Deluxe Edition) last week and am feeling tapped out in the Genesis department! I'll definitely come back around later, though - - you guys are a credit to the community! Which of these are the unique, unreleased prototypes that "no one else has access to the ROMs?" It looked like it might be these - - Stone Protectors Unreleased Prototype Dragon's Lair Unreleased Prototype Itchy and Scratchy Unreleased Fido Dido Unreleased Prototype Jelly Boy Unreleased Prototype Or are some of these "out there" to be found . . . ? -a2a

Thanks for the info! I am VERY optimistic however on a resistor fix on TIA 9 ! My early experiments with the resistors I had available, such as a 330 Ohm - - the lowest I had on-hand - - were excellent! I bought a few 100 and 10 Ohm resistors, but the board was no longer working by the time I had those, so I could not confirm. I think the 10 or 100 Ohm resistor on the TIA 9 line right before it enters the video mod board will solve the problem. LittleJoe has offered to help me out and possibly repair my video mod board, if that's the problem, so I am shipping the goods to him this week. I will let you all know how it goes, and what the final outcome is! It's a beautiful mod, I do want it to work . . . -a2a

For instance, this just popped on craigslist here locally - - http://denver.craigs...2891310169.html Image captured, too, and attached, for when the post dies: Good price for a boxed unit, even if the controllers don't work, or won't work for long . . . -a2a

Hi, Jeff - - great blog, by the way! It's nice to see your cabinet restoration work. Sheesh, you've been a member since 2008 and this is your first post? Well, welcome to AA . . . ! Good looking collection. Pictures would be a BIG help to gauge, and might get you some purchasing interest here. Threads with no pictures die a slow death around here . . . So, pricing? Here's some thoughts - - - A bare console is about $40 - Unless the controllers are rebuilt, preferably the gold dots versions from BEST ELECTRONICS, everyone knows the controllers are nearly worthless. Rebuilt is a HUGE selling point - Trackballs are fun, cool it is in there, depending on condition, $15-$25 - The games look good, nice collection, a few gems in there like MINER 2049er, BOND, H.E.R.O., etc. The manuals and overlays are a plus. My guesstimate for all this is about a $350 ballpark, and expect to come up/down from there depending (star-eyed buyers and lowballers, respectively) I would say craigslist it for $350, and either be firm and wait, or let yourself get talked down a bit for a fast sale. Just my opinion, others may have a better gauge . . . or make you an offer if you include pictures! -a2a

Ah, no worries, I understand! Sadly, I think it all goes back to the video mod board - - I have been careful with the 7800 motherboard and the traces all are good there. I'll be able to confirm that soon, however, when I socket back in the 4001 NOR chip and ensure the output still functions as expected. I'll update the thread when I do! -a2a

I'm almost to that point, Underball, I'm almost there . . . :-) Thanks, ieposta! That was my guess, too, that the solder and/or traces were not exactly "right" and just got damaged somewhere along the way while I was working. I will talk to LittleJoe and see what he would charge to repair the board, or I may try reflowing it myself. Glad to hear the 2600 video mod goes smoothly, I have a few of those to do here soon! -a2a

Hey that's nifty, glad you get to do that at work! Someone else may chime in, but I think you get the usual black screen on the 7800 with no cartridge. I also installed this EXCELLENT European mod from BEST ELECTRONICS, though, and so now when I boot with no cartridge, I get ASTEROIDS! http://www.best-elec...m/7800.htm#Euro I was (relatively) easy to install, and worked amazingly well! I was able to confirm that before the video output on the mod board went out . . . Cool, well, let us all know how it goes once you get it home and test it! -a2a

So, how did your modding go, Deteacher? Sadly, it's GAME OVER for me and the electronicsentimentalities board. I think that right off the bat the board was having video output issues due to a defective solder point or trace - - I could always get sound out output of the card, but the video output would only pop into view when I slightly bent the board in a certain way! I checked all my solder points on the motherboard and my IC socket, but since I could always reproduce the video on/video off by slightly flexing the board, I think it was the board. Now, with this last round of soldering and tinkering, I think I fiddled the board to death or finally completely broke whatever trace was bad. No matter what I do, I get zero video output, on either the 7800 or 2600 mode. I get sound, though, so something is making it through! Bummer! I will have to get in touch with LittleJoe and see what he would charge for a repair of this board. Seems a pity to have come this far and then stop! Was your setup okay? Do you see diagonal lines? -a2a

SO . . . just to check back in - - - I disassembled the wireless base and the possibly non-working RIGHT joystick last night - The battery connector on the RIGHT joystick looked slightly corroded, so I applied elbow grease, and cleaned it up - I then left everything disassembled, fired up the base/RIGHT/LEFT sticks in the prescribed order (thanks, Tigerduck!) . . . and everything worked as expected! Two player mode in MARIO BROS was fine, no weird wall-hack issues in WIZARD OF WOR, and normal COMBAT play! Now, will it all work when I re-assemble it? I am going to solder on a new 9-volt battery connector, and it would be great to mod it for some power-LEDs, too, so I know when things are truly ON, but for now, I think I have the issue sorted! Looks like either the RIGHT stick was not powering on, OR it was loosing connection / never connecting to the base. I think your issues (the "random wig out") Syntax sound like one of the controllers is periodically loosing connection to the base, either because it turns off, or because of something else . . . Wireless interference from OUTSIDE sources (wireless routers, microwaves, wireless phones, etc.) have all been cited as issues with these controllers in the past. Apparently the channel used is a very trafficked one! Thanks again for everyone's help and advice! I'll let you know what the final prognosis and fix ends up being for me! -a2a

Yes, please do let me know! I was VERY happy with the quality of the board, the online instructions, and the ease of installation - - I think you will be, too. The diagonal lines might not be noticeable to some people, but once I personally saw them, I couldn't stop seeing them! This weekend I have to pick up some low-resistance (like, 100 Ohm and 10 Ohm or even less) resistors from my local electronics shop, and I will report back with how that works. If that DOES prove to be the fix, it will be VERY simple to do, Deteacher - - no more complex than the desoldering of resistors from the 7800's motherboard that are required to install the board in the first place. The additional resistor will just attach at the "TIA 9" point on the video mod board, and then you will attach the TIA 9 wire to that resistor! Simple! I'll post my results on Sunday or Monday. -a2a

Ah, now here we have something for the "amusement" category - - my favorite, a craigslist poster with a sense of humor! Favorite parts . . . "WCW Wrestling AND Pro Wrestling - men in tights getting physical with each other, what a great game idea! Hours of fun with man on man, or man on man on man on man action! Sounds like something your pastor might frown upon? WRONG. This is pro wrestling at its' finest!" "Batman - half bat; all man! Follow this bitter billionaire pansy as he turns to rubble the dreams of the less fortunate opposition! Monopoly - the game about what Batman does on his off time." Well played, sir, well played . . . -a2a

Okay, those above, bolded/underlined bits of text help me a lot - - I think that what I am seeing is that my second, or "right side" controller a) doesn't work b) is overpowered by the signal from the "left side" controller (basically the same as "doesn't work!" ). Syntax, just to confirm, it sounds like WIZARD OF WOR work just fine as long as BOTH controllers are on? Thanks!! -a2a

No luck, Tigerduck! (sorry, couldn't resist!) Thanks so much for the idea! I tried your method, following the instructions exactly, and - - - MARIO BROS two-player, the left joystick controls BOTH players; the right joystick does nothing - WIZARD OF WOR two-player, again the left joystick controls both players, the right does nothing IF you would be so kind, do you have WIZARD OF WOR or MARIO BROS? COMBAT would do, too - - I see the same issue there, as well, with the left joystick controlling everything, and the right doing nothing. Could you please confirm that you CAN or CAN'T play a two-player simultaneous game with the ATARI branded wireless remote controllers? I am starting to think that we have a TECHNICAL issue here, and the LEFT controller transmitter is overpowering the RIGHT . . . ? Nothing a little electronics tinkering won't fix, but FIRST I wanted to confirm that you CAN get those two player games to work as expected! THANKS so much! -a2a

Yeah, I'm gonna vote for "design flaw!" I just got hold of two controllers and a base, and they work flawlessly for SINGLE player games . . . . . . but, in WIZARD OF WOR if I choose two players the controller controls BOTH characters, and the guys get stuck in the wall! . . . in MARIO BROS if you choose two player, one joystick controls BOTH Mario and Luigi! . . . DIG DUG fails to work at all (a single player exception) . . . COMBAT again has the "one joystick controls both characters" issue! So, I'm guessing this is a known issue? I tried to do some searches, but did not turn much up! Any fixes so that two players can have some wireless fun at the same time in, for instance, MARIO BROS.? -a2a

Any and all are welcome! Don't worry, I won't go all Harrison Ford "Airforce One" on you for hijacking . . . I have not tried homebrews on my 7800 - - are you referring to 7800 'brews, or 2600, and which ones? There is indeed a LONG history of various 2600 games not working with the 7800. Some have to do with the placement of certain resistors and capacitors, which can be fixed and compatibility restored (DECATHALON, SPACE SHUTTLE, etc.) and some have to do with incompatibilities with the "late model" 2600 TIA chips used in the 7800, such as KOOL-AID MAN! Don't know about 7800 compatibility, tho . . . ANYways - - I clipped the TIA 9 line on the board tonight, and, yes, no interference in 7800 mode anymore. Not wanting to have ANOTHER switch to flip on the unit (I already have one on the back to flip on/off the capacitor for 2600 DARK CHAMBERS / certain ACTIVISION title compatibility), I decided to try a few resistors as was mentioned here - - - - and see what happened. - So, the 1k-ohm resistor on the TIA 9 line made for some strange hues and washed out colors in 2600 mode - - but no diagonal lines in 7800 mode! - The 2k-ohm resistor made the 2600 mode black and white - And, a 330 ohm resistor looked somewhat normal in 2600 mode, and no diagonal lines in 7800 mode! That was all the resistors I had on hand, so I will obtain some more very low resistance ones tomorrow and keep trying. Looks like just a minimal buffer is all that is needed to clean up that interference and carry on without adding in extra switches and levers! Thanks, everyone, keep the ideas flowing, if you have them! -a2a

Thanks! I will try disconnecting the TIA 9 wire and report back with the results! Over here at the famous "Saundby mod" page, he discusses buffering the TIA 9 with a resistor - - http://saundby.com/a...mod_theory.html He uses a 1.2Kohm resistor, to be exact. I might try that buffer first before resorting to a physical switch, and see if that cleans it up! -a2a