atari2atari
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Posts posted by atari2atari
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I'm considering selling my 5200 collection. I collect consoles and arcade machines, and this one is probably the least played of all of my collection. I have 48 different original games (detailed below), most overlays and several instruction books, a couple consoles, 5-6 controllers, and trackball. I might even have the vcs adapter but have to check.
Any idea what I should ask for this? I want to see if it's worth putting up for sale. I'm trying to pull some money together for a game purchase I want to make.
. . .
Thanks! Any help would be appreciated!
Jeff Waldron
Hi, Jeff - - great blog, by the way! It's nice to see your cabinet restoration work. Sheesh, you've been a member since 2008 and this is your first post? Well, welcome to AA . . . !
Good looking collection. Pictures would be a BIG help to gauge, and might get you some purchasing interest here. Threads with no pictures die a slow death around here . . .
So, pricing? Here's some thoughts - -
- A bare console is about $40
- Unless the controllers are rebuilt, preferably the gold dots versions from BEST ELECTRONICS, everyone knows the controllers are nearly worthless. Rebuilt is a HUGE selling point
- Trackballs are fun, cool it is in there, depending on condition, $15-$25
- The games look good, nice collection, a few gems in there like MINER 2049er, BOND, H.E.R.O., etc. The manuals and overlays are a plus.
My guesstimate for all this is about a $350 ballpark, and expect to come up/down from there depending (star-eyed buyers and lowballers, respectively)
I would say craigslist it for $350, and either be firm and wait, or let yourself get talked down a bit for a fast sale.
Just my opinion, others may have a better gauge . . . or make you an offer if you include pictures!
-a2a
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I meant the 7800 motherboard and the empty socket, not parts on the mod board. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Ah, no worries, I understand!
Sadly, I think it all goes back to the video mod board - - I have been careful with the 7800 motherboard and the traces all are good there.
I'll be able to confirm that soon, however, when I socket back in the 4001 NOR chip and ensure the output still functions as expected. I'll update the thread when I do!
-a2a
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Not to be a stick in the mud, but in nearly every case I've seen in here, Longhorns mod is plagued with problems.
Why not save yourselves the time and aggravation and jus do the "easier composite mod" from these forums? It's >$5 worth of parts and takes about 10-15 minutes to assemble and install, and the picture quality is stellar. Easily as good if not better than Longhorns.
I'm almost to that point, Underball, I'm almost there . . . :-)
Just guessing here, but since the motherboard is double sided and the removed chip should have holes that are plated through to both side of the motherboard, maybe it's not 100% soldered to the circuit (top) side. That may explain moving the board to get video / no video.
Removing that chip is potentially damaging and I would check those pin connections in the new socket ( both top and bottom ) visually first. I don't know enough to know if a continuity checker would hurt any chips or not. I have flowed solder to the top by heating the top (under) side of the socket and applying solder just to be a bit more sure that contact is made with the new socket. I could have caused damage, but it's not finished so I don't know yet.
I just started my 7800 mod, and didn't get to finish it. The socket is in, resistors removed, 4 wires attached so far.
I installed the Longhorn mod from LittleJoe in my 2600a 4 switch no problem, but this 7800 is a little bit harder due to desoldering / removing parts.
Thanks, ieposta! That was my guess, too, that the solder and/or traces were not exactly "right" and just got damaged somewhere along the way while I was working.
I will talk to LittleJoe and see what he would charge to repair the board, or I may try reflowing it myself.
Glad to hear the 2600 video mod goes smoothly, I have a few of those to do here soon!
-a2a
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I just got around to working on it today at work...I installed the board, but I forgot to bring a test cart with me (duh!) I will bring it home and fire it up and post my results.
BTW, I've never tried before, but should I get any output on a 7800 with no cart in the slot? Will the Atari logo screen come up?
Hey that's nifty, glad you get to do that at work!
Someone else may chime in, but I think you get the usual black screen on the 7800 with no cartridge.
I also installed this EXCELLENT European mod from BEST ELECTRONICS, though, and so now when I boot with no cartridge, I get ASTEROIDS!
http://www.best-elec...m/7800.htm#Euro
I was (relatively) easy to install, and worked amazingly well! I was able to confirm that before the video output on the mod board went out . . .
Cool, well, let us all know how it goes once you get it home and test it!
-a2a
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That's good to know. Can't wait to dig into the project.
Actually, I have a 7800 with this mod installed (did it myself about a year ago) but the 7800 games only show up in B/W (2600 games look GREAT!) I contacted Parker (LH, himself) and he offered to fix it for me, since it appears to be a problem with the board. I'm going to swap that out with this new one and see if that brings color to the 7800 games. Then I can simply send the bad board back to him for repair (rather than send the whole console to him.) If I still get B/W with the new board, then I know there's something screwy with the console and I'll install the new board in my other 7800.
I love tinkering, so it's going to be a fun weekend for me.
So, how did your modding go, Deteacher?
Sadly, it's GAME OVER for me and the electronicsentimentalities board.
I think that right off the bat the board was having video output issues due to a defective solder point or trace - - I could always get sound out output of the card, but the video output would only pop into view when I slightly bent the board in a certain way!
I checked all my solder points on the motherboard and my IC socket, but since I could always reproduce the video on/video off by slightly flexing the board, I think it was the board.
Now, with this last round of soldering and tinkering, I think I fiddled the board to death or finally completely broke whatever trace was bad. No matter what I do, I get zero video output, on either the 7800 or 2600 mode. I get sound, though, so something is making it through!
Bummer!
I will have to get in touch with LittleJoe and see what he would charge for a repair of this board. Seems a pity to have come this far and then stop!
Was your setup okay? Do you see diagonal lines?
-a2a
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SO . . . just to check back in - -
- I disassembled the wireless base and the possibly non-working RIGHT joystick last night
- The battery connector on the RIGHT joystick looked slightly corroded, so I applied elbow grease, and cleaned it up
- I then left everything disassembled, fired up the base/RIGHT/LEFT sticks in the prescribed order (thanks, Tigerduck!)
. . . and everything worked as expected!
Two player mode in MARIO BROS was fine, no weird wall-hack issues in WIZARD OF WOR, and normal COMBAT play!
Now, will it all work when I re-assemble it?
I am going to solder on a new 9-volt battery connector, and it would be great to mod it for some power-LEDs, too, so I know when things are truly ON, but for now, I think I have the issue sorted!Looks like either the RIGHT stick was not powering on, OR it was loosing connection / never connecting to the base.
I think your issues (the "random wig out") Syntax sound like one of the controllers is periodically loosing connection to the base, either because it turns off, or because of something else . . .
Wireless interference from OUTSIDE sources (wireless routers, microwaves, wireless phones, etc.) have all been cited as issues with these controllers in the past. Apparently the channel used is a very trafficked one!
Thanks again for everyone's help and advice! I'll let you know what the final prognosis and fix ends up being for me!
-a2a
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I just picked up this mod from electronicsentimentalities today. I plan on putting it in this weekend. Hopefully I won't have the issue with the diagonal lines because I won't know how to change/add resistors/transistors. I'll post my results once I get it installed.
Yes, please do let me know!
I was VERY happy with the quality of the board, the online instructions, and the ease of installation - - I think you will be, too.
The diagonal lines might not be noticeable to some people, but once I personally saw them, I couldn't stop seeing them!
This weekend I have to pick up some low-resistance (like, 100 Ohm and 10 Ohm or even less) resistors from my local electronics shop, and I will report back with how that works.
If that DOES prove to be the fix, it will be VERY simple to do, Deteacher - - no more complex than the desoldering of resistors from the 7800's motherboard that are required to install the board in the first place. The additional resistor will just attach at the "TIA 9" point on the video mod board, and then you will attach the TIA 9 wire to that resistor! Simple!
I'll post my results on Sunday or Monday.
-a2a
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Ah, now here we have something for the "amusement" category - - my favorite, a craigslist poster with a sense of humor!
Favorite parts . . .
"WCW Wrestling AND Pro Wrestling - men in tights getting physical with each other, what a great game idea! Hours of fun with man on man, or man on man on man on man action! Sounds like something your pastor might frown upon? WRONG. This is pro wrestling at its' finest!"
"Batman - half bat; all man! Follow this bitter billionaire pansy as he turns to rubble the dreams of the less fortunate opposition!
Monopoly - the game about what Batman does on his off time."
Well played, sir, well played . . .
-a2a
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I have a set and its acting strange. If I only turn on one it wants to control both sides, but the signals to the other side are erratic. If I turn off the controller while playing the controller moves on its own. Turning both off while playing starmaster does something that makes the screen roll. And at random times while playing wizard of wor my Guy moves through the wall and collides with walls that are not there. Having both on seems to clear up these problems. Is it possible to damage electronics using a power adapter that is under the miliamps specifications?
Don't have Mario bro but combat works fine so long as both sticks are on. If one is off that tank spins in circles firing rapidly.
The Atari branded does not have a power switch on the receiver and is always on
Okay, those above, bolded/underlined bits of text help me a lot - - I think that what I am seeing is that my second, or "right side" controller a) doesn't work b) is overpowered by the signal from the "left side" controller (basically the same as "doesn't work!"
).Syntax, just to confirm, it sounds like WIZARD OF WOR work just fine as long as BOTH controllers are on?
Thanks!!
-a2a
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Believe me, it's only a matter of the order you switch your equipment on!
It sounds strange, but it is...
I could reproduce all your mentioned errors by switching on and off the joysticks/transceiver by accident.
But if I stick to the "right order" there is no problem anymore.
-> switch on the transceiver
-> switch on right then left joystick (wait 5 seconds for "synchronisation")
-> switch on your VCS
This works in 99% of all cases.
Have you tried this? result?
Tigerduck
No luck, Tigerduck!
(sorry, couldn't resist!)Thanks so much for the idea! I tried your method, following the instructions exactly, and - -
- MARIO BROS two-player, the left joystick controls BOTH players; the right joystick does nothing
- WIZARD OF WOR two-player, again the left joystick controls both players, the right does nothing
IF you would be so kind, do you have WIZARD OF WOR or MARIO BROS? COMBAT would do, too - - I see the same issue there, as well, with the left joystick controlling everything, and the right doing nothing.
Could you please confirm that you CAN or CAN'T play a two-player simultaneous game with the ATARI branded wireless remote controllers?
I am starting to think that we have a TECHNICAL issue here, and the LEFT controller transmitter is overpowering the RIGHT . . . ?
Nothing a little electronics tinkering won't fix, but FIRST I wanted to confirm that you CAN get those two player games to work as expected!
THANKS so much!
-a2a
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I have a set and its acting strange. If I only turn on one it wants to control both sides, but the signals to the other side are erratic. If I turn off the controller while playing the controller moves on its own. Turning both off while playing starmaster does something that makes the screen roll. And at random times while playing wizard of wor my Guy moves through the wall and collides with walls that are not there. Having both on seems to clear up these problems. Is it possible to damage electronics using a power adapter that is under the miliamps specifications?
Mine are the Atari branded sticks, but hearing that you are getting the same results from a different brand is interesting. We'll see what the rest of the community has to say but it seems safe to say that this is a design flaw.
PS I got ahold of a proper power adapter.
Yeah, I'm gonna vote for "design flaw!"
I just got hold of two controllers and a base, and they work flawlessly for SINGLE player games . . .
. . . but, in WIZARD OF WOR if I choose two players the controller controls BOTH characters, and the guys get stuck in the wall!
. . . in MARIO BROS if you choose two player, one joystick controls BOTH Mario and Luigi!
. . . DIG DUG fails to work at all (a single player exception)
. . . COMBAT again has the "one joystick controls both characters" issue!
So, I'm guessing this is a known issue? I tried to do some searches, but did not turn much up!
Any fixes so that two players can have some wireless fun at the same time in, for instance, MARIO BROS.?
-a2a
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Don't want to hijack the thread but has anyone had an issue with some home-brews not working with the LH7800 video mod? A few games I have don't work on my longhorn 7800 but work on others.
Any and all are welcome! Don't worry, I won't go all Harrison Ford "Airforce One" on you for hijacking . . .
I have not tried homebrews on my 7800 - - are you referring to 7800 'brews, or 2600, and which ones? There is indeed a LONG history of various 2600 games not working with the 7800. Some have to do with the placement of certain resistors and capacitors, which can be fixed and compatibility restored (DECATHALON, SPACE SHUTTLE, etc.) and some have to do with incompatibilities with the "late model" 2600 TIA chips used in the 7800, such as KOOL-AID MAN!
Don't know about 7800 compatibility, tho . . .
ANYways - -
The best way I know how to get rid of the 7800 mode diagonal interfence is to cut the wire (install a manual swtich) from the TIA 9 connection to the mod board. Disconnect it temporarily and give it a try.
I clipped the TIA 9 line on the board tonight, and, yes, no interference in 7800 mode anymore.
Not wanting to have ANOTHER switch to flip on the unit (I already have one on the back to flip on/off the capacitor for 2600 DARK CHAMBERS / certain ACTIVISION title compatibility), I decided to try a few resistors as was mentioned here - -
Thanks!
I will try disconnecting the TIA 9 wire and report back with the results!
Over here at the famous "Saundby mod" page, he discusses buffering the TIA 9 with a resistor - -
http://saundby.com/a...mod_theory.html
He uses a 1.2Kohm resistor, to be exact.
I might try that buffer first before resorting to a physical switch, and see if that cleans it up!
-a2a
- - and see what happened.
- So, the 1k-ohm resistor on the TIA 9 line made for some strange hues and washed out colors in 2600 mode - - but no diagonal lines in 7800 mode!
- The 2k-ohm resistor made the 2600 mode black and white
- And, a 330 ohm resistor looked somewhat normal in 2600 mode, and no diagonal lines in 7800 mode!
That was all the resistors I had on hand, so I will obtain some more very low resistance ones tomorrow and keep trying. Looks like just a minimal buffer is all that is needed to clean up that interference and carry on without adding in extra switches and levers!
Thanks, everyone, keep the ideas flowing, if you have them!
-a2a
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Thanks!
I will try disconnecting the TIA 9 wire and report back with the results!
Over here at the famous "Saundby mod" page, he discusses buffering the TIA 9 with a resistor - -
http://saundby.com/a...mod_theory.html
He uses a 1.2Kohm resistor, to be exact.
I might try that buffer first before resorting to a physical switch, and see if that cleans it up!
-a2a
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Greetings, Atarians. I have a vexing problem I would appreciate some assistance on.
I've been having myself a good time installing a batari/longhorn engineer designed 7800 video board into my personal "keeper" 7800 unit.
I purchased it from "electronicsentimentalities," a member here who has taken batari/longhorn's open-source design and crafted some nice boards:
http://electronicsen...led%20Mods.html
And, his instructions are quite easy, too:
http://electronicsen...structions.html
The installation is done, and sound and video head on out the composite and S-video jacks as expected . . .
. . . but I'm getting those pesky, rolling diagonal lines that others have talked about in the past!
The diagonal rollers show up in both the composite AND the S-video outputs. It DOESN'T show up in 2600 mode, only 7800.
I have done my research, and tried multiple things in an attempt to solve the problem - -
- Detached the 4-pins that go to the RF modulator (the above picture shows them as attached; they are no longer)
- Removed the Q8 transistor (as was suggested here: http://www.made-by-b...101&t=842#p3415 )
- Removed the Q1 transistor (from the AtariAge 7800 FAQ: "In order to prevent the audio from interfering with the video signal, the mixing oscillator must be disabled on the main circuit board. On a 7800, remove the base lead of Q1. It is located near the RF modulator." [click on text to link to page]
So far, no luck!
This post cryptically offers some advice - -
http://www.atariage....ost__p__1543423
"I disconnected the audio from the video in order clear up the diagonal lines. Where it is disconnected I added a cap to amplify the audio. Where did you get the audio signal?"
But I could not determine exactly what was meant . . . ! Maybe I already did that by removing some of the transistors
And, this post also offers some hope . . .
http://www.atariage....ost__p__1524023
"I had to disconnect at R3 to remove all interference to the composite signal."
But again, I am not certain what is meant? I am going to have to go look for "R3" on the board after I post this!
Does anyone have some advice?
The picture is great - - nice and crisp, no shadows, but those diagonal rollers, especially on a dark background, are VERY noticeable!
Thanks SO much for any and all ideas!!
-a2a
- Detached the 4-pins that go to the RF modulator (the above picture shows them as attached; they are no longer)
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Still looking!
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Hello!
I am looking for a CLEAN and WORKING set of ATARI 2600 Wireless Controllers.
Not the off-brand ones, but the actual ATARI ones with the power adapter, etc.
Physical condition DOES matter, but the set does not have to be boxed or pristine!
Check out my for sale thread (link in my signature, below) if you would like to trade, OR PayPal is always an option!
THANKS!
-a2a
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still looking for one but now i can offer up to 100$
PM deployed!
-a2a
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I don't recommend the resistor mod. It doesn't work at all on some televisions. If it works for you, though, go with it, but don't bother with gold, that's a waste of money for this one.
The transistor mod isn't bad, though - it works on televisions that don't like the resistor mod.
I think I know the person you linked, but I'm not sure. Really, it could be anyone. My video mod is open source. The schematic and board gerber files are free. Anyone can get boards made and assemble one if they wish, or even sell them.
Good advice and information, thanks! I didn't know that compatibility fact about resistor versus transistor mods.
I agree on the gold - - it's a gimmick!
Ah, I figured it out, "electronicsentimentalities" is LittleJoe here on AtariAge - -
And, looks like many people are happy with his version of your board, Batari.
Moonpig, if you are interested, it looks like his board will indeed work with PAL units - -
Best of luck in whatever you choose! Let us know what you finally end up going with, and how it works!
-a2a
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Interesting, though, isn't it, in its simplicity?
I gave it a go yesterday on a spare unit, and despite being a pile of resistors, I was pleased with the output.
Mind you, I took it all back apart, and am considering a board for all the components, but I liked how cheap and fast it was.
As for better mods, I have ordered a few of these, which I think are great for the price - -
http://electronicsen...led%20Mods.html
I think you know this fellow, Batari? He mentioned you when I was purchasing them from him online.
Very professional, and a nice price!
The other mod units that the original poster mentioned as for sale in his first post here eBay Auction -- Item Number: 300592126324
by Mike Pagano are just these - -
Also inexpensive and effective, for a transitor mod, but for barely $10 more, you can go with the very nice pre-printed PCBs of "electronicsentimentalities" . . .
-a2a
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I am looking for a nice, clean ATARI 2600 Junior case - - I don't need the innards!
I really only need the TOP of a Junior, more specifically, but I would be interested in complete units, too.
Appearance, condition, and funtion is important - - it needs to have the cartridge-opening tabs, for instance, and the mylar Select/Reset switches need to work. A few scuffs on the case or metal bezel are okay.
Thanks to any and all that can help!!
-a2a
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This is the greatest thing I've ever seen. So, sorry if this is stupid, but this will work on an NTSC system too, correct? How about a Jr. model?
I liked it, too, and was tempted - - but that's a European plug.
I don't think there is a way to switch out that double-prong and put in a U.S.-compatible one, is there? Some things like that are modular, and include the different sets for each country, but that thing looks kinda' welded on there . . .
-a2a
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After doing some research and talking to some people who offer a UK modding service, I am confused which is the best method to use.
DIY Kit
eBay Auction -- Item Number: 300592126324
When I asked another modder if he used the kits he said
“No, I didn't use that kit. I got my parts separately.
To be honest, I would never use those standard connections. I only use gold connections as they produce better quality.
The parts used for this mod are widely available, you just have to know what you are looking for. Also its cheaper than that kit.”
Are the kits better than buying the bit separately, or do they produce equally good results and I should just go with which method is cheaper?
Also are there any other kits available for a PAL Atari 2600?
Thanks
Those kits you reference in the eBay link are Mike Pagano's mod kits and service - - he is an EXCELLENT individual to deal with and sells a very simple and effective pre-made mod kit for all models of ATARI 2600s.
I have purchased multiple mod kit units from him, and have been very pleased.
HOWEVER, from personal experience I have determined that the kits were designed primarily for NTSC units.
I think that his mod kits MIGHT work for some ATARI 2600 PAL models, but I attempted to use one on a PAL ATARI 2600 Jr and was only able to get black and white, which means it is not pulling the components from the right place. Further testing on all the known "pickup points" on the PAL board still did not produce results with that mod kit, and so I moved onto other methods.
You mileage may vary, though - - I want to stress that Mike is a VERY helpful individual and would do his best to get your system correctly set up!
You might do better sending it to him for the service, rather than buying a kit, though.
**OR, might I suggest a mod for a PAL Atari 2600 Jr system that I found on a German forum? See the attached PDF.
Junior Atari 2600 video mod without additional board.pdf
This is very specific for a 2600 Jr, but it might be adaptable for whatever unit you are working on.
What type of ATARI 2600 are you working with? A four-switch woody or Vader, perhaps?
I am planning to implement this method myself (I was actually just laying out the parts this morning) and I will let you know how it goes. I plan to use a small board, rather than going direct to the PCB as the author seems to prefer, but that's just personal preference.
Best of luck!
-a2a
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Due to the design of the 2600 adaptor, I decided it's not really practical to make my mod work with it. The adaptor would require internal modificaions. The Atari 5200 doesn't seem to have been designed for any backward compatibility. It was only after Colecovision released their 2600 expansion module 1 that Atari decided to make one for the 5200. The adaptor is almost a standalone Atari 2600 and only uses the RF box and 5v regulator in the 5200.
It would probably be easier and better to install LHE or Batari's 2600 mod kit in the adaptor itself. If you were going to do that, you might as well add a power jack and 5v regulator to make the adaptor a standalone system.
Ah-ha, thanks for that info! Good to know that it really is sending it all directly to the RF adapter, and THAT is what is being bypassed here.
Not that I *need* the ATARI 2600 adapter to work for the 5200 - - it's not like I don't have enough things around as it is that are quite capable of running 2600 carts - - I was just curious!
Yes, those stand-alone VCS Adapter mods are very cool! I might give that a go, after I clear my deck of the current queue of soldering that seems to be piling up on the workbench . . . !
I'll subscribe to this thread, and keep an eye out for when the ver 2 board is released.
Thanks again for your AWESOME contribution to the community - - it's excellent!
-a2a
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Gotta say, Bradley's "Gold Dot" upgrade is WELL worth the money. (http://www.best-elec...ca.com/5200.htm)
The XL conversion games are fantastic. JUMPMAN JR forever! (. . . and GATEWAY TO APSHAI is an old friend I was happy to find again!).
-a2a
Seriously you can play Jumpman JR on a 5200? Can you post the link to the XL conversions?
Thanks,
NP
I think you will find this link to have what you need . . .
-a2a
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Price Check: 5200 Collection
in Buy, Sell, and Trade
Posted
For instance, this just popped on craigslist here locally - -
http://denver.craigs...2891310169.html
Image captured, too, and attached, for when the post dies:
Good price for a boxed unit, even if the controllers don't work, or won't work for long . . .
-a2a