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ewokmic

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About ewokmic

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  1. Hi Stephen - R79 is giving me 10.08 while on the circuit but I'm unable to get it off the board without damaging the area and possibly other bits too - at least not with the tools I have. Its tiny and in a busy area. Sorry for the late reply, I've been away for a while. I think I'm probably wasting your time now.. might be time to throw in the towel.
  2. Hi Stephen. Sorry for the delay! R79 has 103 printed on it like you expected. 2000 Ohms set on the reader - TP15 to Pin 1 U6 reads 327 D12 I simply cant find. D10, D11 sure, but not D11. D14 is the closest D to R56 and Q13.
  3. Hi Stephen. By 'wrong end' of Q11 I meant the end that didn't go to R842. Sorry I'm not too clear. Right, so R79, no batteries, 20k setting. Withe the probes not touching anything the meter reads 1.The probes on either end show 1.24 or 1.28 when swapped around but this changes slightly - 1.25/1.27 when I tried a couple of minutes later. R79 to U6 Pin 1 = 0.00 north end, 1.28 south end (of R79) R79 to U6 Pin 10 = 1.24 north end, 0.00 south end
  4. Sorry Stephen I made that list late and was half asleep. Details noted as OFF above are correct for both on and off - only 10, 11, 12 and 13 change. ignore the ON numbers - copy paste error (apart from pin 10). Progress: 1 - pin 6 or 8 connected to Q11 only shows voltage through what I assume is the wrong end. this doesn't change when switching on or off. Using pin 5 (which I assume now is what basically pin 6 would be doing if on worked) and checking with the R842 leg of Q11 actually switches the machine on and, get this, it stays on when I remove the prods. Touching pin 5 and Q11 again switches it off. This is the same no matter if you have pressed on or off switches on the front. 2 - L6 seems to be the headphones ground and yes it switches it on the console for the duration you hold the wire on it. No difference again whether you have pre pressed on or off. Noticed if you bridge pins 5 and 6 it also switches on. Thanks again for the mega patient help!
  5. Off: Pin 10 = 8.5V Pin 1 = 8.5V Pin 2 & 3 = 0V Pin 4, 5 & 9 = 8.5V Pin 6 & 8 = 0V On: Pin 10 = 0.1V Pin 1 = 0V Pin 2 & 3 = 8.5V Pin 4, 5 & 9 = 0V Pin 6 & 8 = 8.5V 10, 11, 12 and 13 do change, as detailed before, but all the others (not counting 7) do not change.
  6. With one end of the probe on R79 (tried both ends and it's the same each side) and the other probe on U6 as per your list each pin gives the expected reading you listed - problem is its like that when on, off or even if holding on or off. The voltages do not swap!
  7. Thanks Stephen - I won't have a chance to check until Sunday so will get back with findings then! I didn't hear any reviews of the Frantic Four gig this year but I went to the Hammersmith one on the Friday last year and thought it was fantastic. The crowd were really up for it too! First time I had seen the original line-up.
  8. right - managed to get past some of my amateur issues and worked out IC pins etc. Batteries are currently outputting 8.56v. Finally realised that you don't have to hold the on button, you just have to press it and then press off to make the change (pretty oblivious but not so much when your fiddling with 1mm pins and trying to hold three things at once!). Anyway, when switched ON (obviously the machine shows no visible reaction or we wouldn't be here) the pins read: 10 0.1v 11 7.79v 12 8.56v 13 0.1v Pressing OFF did switch this round so 10 and 13 had power and the others did. Checked a few times. Voltage did vary very slightly. So that sounds good I think. I rechecked R842 but getting nothing through that ON or OFF. closer to the problem? I can't find U16 but have a cart in so probably not the problem there as it does boot the game if I bypass Q11 as noted previously.
  9. Thanks so much Stephen I will test again tonight. Just noticed your profile image is from the Number 1 rock 'n' roll band in the land Here's a photo of U6 I took last night (iPhone + magnifying glass!) - Pin 1 is bottom right?
  10. Hi Stephen - thanks for the detailed reply. Unfortunatly I'm not massively clued up on checking voltages but will do my best - I do have a test meter. U6 found. I'm not sure where to place the 2nd meter prod(? dont laugh :-) ) so sticking with one end on + power and the other on the pin it seems the full 9v of battery (well, just under) is going through some of the pins. Not sure what counts as pin 1 because the board printing is the opposite way around as the chip number. Going with the board printing (so starting very top left, speaker below) 1, 2, 5, 6, 8, 11 and 12 all allow full voltage to pass through. Pretty tricky holding the on button ehilst re-checking but no differenc was made with that held down. R84/R64 could this perhaps be the R842 - its right next to Q11. 0V coming through this (very small piece stamped 104) with or without the on button pressed. Thats all I have for tonight! thanks again.
  11. Hey guys - looking for some expert help. Got a Lynx 1 in super duper condition cosmetically. Nice and clean inside. Won't switch on. Tested the power to audio ground trick and 'ta-da' we have lift-off! Bought a 3055E from eBay and replaced Q11. No change.... If I run a bit of wire between the 3055E big leg and the last small leg it starts working, but the chip heats up. No matter what I do the on/off buttons have no effect. The circuitry is all clean - had a careful look with a magnifying glass and can't find any breaks etc. I actually got two of the chips so tried the other just to see if the first was broken. Nothing. Any ideas guys? Trying my best but a bit of an amateur here! Its annoying because the screen/sound/casing all great. I wan't to play Crystal Mines again...
  12. Hi all - just to close of the story, I never did get the RF working, but I made my own AV cable (red/white/yellow) and the picture is perfect! After trying on so many TV's I guess the RF modulator thingy must be shot. No worries though because the AV is great!
  13. Yes tried a different one and both working on other systems. Hmm. Well think I will build a RGB cable when I find some time and find out. If that doesn't work it will be hard to tell if its the system or my poor job, but we will see. Thanks guys.
  14. Yeah, been tuning it using all known methods. Just had another try on a 12 inch CTR and no luck - similar to above picture but no colour. You can tell the game is running fine in the background. I'm thinking it's an internal issue for sure, but an easy fix or not, and would it be unrelated to the other non RF output (i.e. RF module may be broken but RGB would work???). Thanks all!
  15. Tried on LCD and two CRT's but nothing better than in the screenshot.
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