Artlover

Oh, and to answer the question.... I have problems with the controllers for both reasons, but on a whole, their reliability is my biggest gripe. Sucky control is better then none at all.

Yeah, but on the other hand, they are great (when working) for open-field games like Centipede & Missile Command.

Well, I used to work for a well known thrift store for awhile, and let me respond to that by saying... Hahahahahahahaha! Uhhem, em... It's a nice thought, and SOME of the money made actually does filter down to people who need it. For example. One of the big thrift's (one that prides itself on how it trains & employs disabled/retarded people. Yes, they do. The entire janitorial staff is nearly all retarded people. There are also retarded and disabled people working at sewing machines in un-airconditioned warehouse areas sewing up used ripped clothing to be resold. Others repairing bins & cages used by the plant & stores. All making a whopping 50 cents a day. The finance director totaly ignored the low wage amount by reinforcing the fact that these people were just happy to have a job at all since most places won't hire them because of their issues. In other words, it ok to use these people as underpaid slave labor in litteral sweatshop conditions because they don't have choice. Small amounts of money also get donated to the county & city and stuff. But an overwhelming amount doesn't. Extra money goes to more practical things like buying brand new trucks for the executives, even when they were in the red. Also, and good50-75% of all donated goods (working or not) simply get thrown out as soon as the donator pulls away. Reasons vary from everything between having too much of it, to simply not wanting to have to be bothed in dealing with something. Charity is purely secondary to their primary goal of making as much free money as they can. Unfortunatly, all the big chain thrift stores are like this.

I dunno, I don't think pawn shops are really any worse then thrift stores. Actually, quite the contrary. Thrift stores, like Goodwill and Salvation Army won't let you haggle over the price most of the time. Most pawn shops I've been to are more then happy to flexable. Also, in a pawn shop, half the inventory isn't used clothes like in the thrift stores.

I'd like to see Neuromancer for the Commodore 64 to be remade. Awesome as hell game. I still play it using Vice now & then.

What kinda cable are you using to replace the original 2600 one? If I might suggest, maybe make your own using rg-58 or something. I've done it on one console, and it made a big difference. No herringbone rf interference at all, just a nice crystal clear picture. It's seriously made me rethink the need of doing the a/v mod on any of mine.

I wouldn't say that. Most places you are still going to see $9.95 - $14.95 prices. GameXchange, CompUSA, etc.. BestBuy was the only truly cheap place I knew of, with discounted games as cheap at $5.95. But it's been over a year since I last saw a DC game there.

Well, I already have an old 2 port, with two mostly working sticks, and a bunch of games I've bought over the years. I mostly wanted to find a 4port so I could play pitfall and stuff. I was hoping to get some good controllers out of it thou since mine are plagued with bad wiring. But the ones that came with the 4 port seem to have the same issue. But atleast the shells & mechanical bits are in good shape. Just gotta replace the cable & db15. Oh well. I'll probably make the 4 port my primary unit, and retire my old 2 port to storage for the time being.

Hmm, 20 views, but no replies. I guess this wasn't a particuarly good deal then, huh.

A working 4 port 5200 with the power supply, it's weird propriatory swtich box, and 2 nice looking but not working joysticks. $29.95.

I have 4 of them. All original Sega brand. 3 of the regular kind with display 1 of the 4xMemory kind. It's nothing but a manual bank-switch design. Press the button to toggle which of the 4 banks of memory to use. Never had a problem with it.

Even easier on usenet.

Use the word stylus or you'll confuse all the classic gamer types that seem to hang around here Hahahaha. Yeah.

I suspect there are a lot of reasons. #: Non-human use. Researchers who record anaimal sounds, and stuff like that. #: Audiable sub-harmonic effects of higher frequencies. In the real world, sounds arn't neatly limited to the range of human hearing. Sounds use as much range as they need for their sound to be made. Recording all of that sound is the only way to reproduce it correctly with the same fullness and body. Limiting it to the range of human hearing eliminates that mostly inaudiable, but subtle difference. #: Some people can hear higher then 20khz. Granted not as much as 96Khz, but still more then most formats out there are able to reproduce. No problem. I'm sorry I snapped at you like that. I tend to be overly defencive.

First, I'm not mixing up anything. I've been working with digital audio for over a decade and am fully aware of the difference between frequency responce and sampling rate. Second, DVDA is not the same as regular DVD audio. DVDA supports sampling rates up to 192khz providing a max of 96khz frequency responce. Snippit from DigitalAudioGuide So I do believe my original post stands correct, thank you.

$30.00 is a good price for a tested & known working unit. Games to get.... Dead or Alive 2 Evolution 2 (or the original Evolution if they don't have #2) Tee Off Golf D2 4x4 Evo South Park - Chef's Luv Shack Chu Chu Rocket Wild Metal Toy Racer Tech Romancer Shenmue

Resolution quick list. LP = 5Hz to 35KHz. This is assuming you're using a high-end cartridge like a MC AT33 or Shure V15 or something, most low-priced (anything less then a $100) cartridges/needles are typically 20Hz-20Khz. CD = 0Hz to 20 or 22KHz. Most digital media tends to fall in this limit, including popular file formats like mp3. DVD-A = 0Hz to 96KHz. This is therotical if using 2 channel @ max bit/rate, but in most typical configurations the high-end resolution is going to be between 20 & 48KHz) So yeah, DVD-Audio seems like a big step forward for digital audio. Given that it has a decent frequency responce now. I bet zeppelin would sound just as sweet as vinal on this. I'd love to hear it.

I like the original big controllers better then this second generation controller they got. On the 2nd gen controllers, the White & Black buttons are damn near impossible to use in game since you gotta shift whole hand to reach them. Also think the original controllers have a stronger rummble effect.

Not the best deal, but not the worst either. Colecovision with 4 games. Donkey Kong, Mouse Trap, Smurfs (w/box and instructions), and Zaxxon (w/box & instructions). $40.00.

Actually, there is an Xbox emulator now. http://www.caustik.com/cxbx/

I'm not sure the PC industry in general wil be hurt, and quite frankly, I'm not sure Microsoft will be all that hurt either. If hacking the xbox was mainstream, and "everyone" did it, then yeah, Microsoft would finally collapse. The effect on the computer industry I don't think would be that great. Maybe regarding preassembled systems, they will problaby have a drop in sales, but will still easily survive. The problem is that it will never happen on mass enough scale to be of any threat. Yes, it's fairly easy. But not quite. There are some finer details that will stop most people. #1) Not really being able to find a clear start to finish "this is how you modify your xbox for free" tutorial. You gotta read about 30 different messages of incomplete info to come up with a working game plan. #2) You need a way to move files to the thing. You could hot-swap the HD to your PC to copy the files. Requires opening the thing and messing with stuff while it's live. Buy an Action Reply, but now it's getting out of the "free" range. Know someone with a hacked xbox. I've owned an xbox since they first came out, and I've only just now met someone else who has one, and it's not modified. #3) At this point, you are still left with two choices. Tedious boot-disc method which requires activating this game-save exploit from the HD with the original game, then swapping CD's. But this can easily take over a minute start to finish, and is annoying. Modify the Xbox which requires soldering two jumpers. Simple enough. Except if you've ever looked at a xbox mother board, and the points you have to solder, it's not an easy job for a part time solder, and not a job at all for someone who's never soldered before. Then flashing the on-board bios with something else. Not really a big deal, but mighty intimidating to a noob. #4) The newest Xbox's are designed a little different, and are less forgiving when it comes to flashing the bios. It can still be done, but you are limited in what you can do, and have no easy way to recover if flashing goes wrong (you would need a 3rd party mod chip just to beable to fix the original bios). Yes, if you know what you are doing, and have some moderate skills, this is easy, and you can do it in about 15-20 minutes. But most people out there are not going to beable to figure it out and/or will not have the skills needed to do everything. Go to the Xbox hacking sites, and you will see the forums flooded with noob's asking for "detailed" instructions, or whining "I broke my xbox". Plus, I forsee the next revision of Xbox's not having a flashable bios chip at all, and going to a PROM or something. It's just not something I see "the masses" doing. This is probably more true then anything else. Hardware hacking and soldering iron savvy have always been more present overseas then here. And prices are generaly more expencive. But I still doubt that there will be a great number of people doing this.

Hmm, speech as in true computer generated I assume.... Berzerk for the 5200. Back sometime in 1985 I think it was.

Ah, but there is SO much more to this..... Two words: TSOP Flashing. Why bother with a modchip when you can flash the Xbox's own on-board flash bios with whatever valid bios image you want. Be it a modchip bios, or linux boot bios, or whatever. With the 007AUF trick, and an Action Replay, you can effectively drop the xbox into a linux shell. Telnet in from a PC or something, run a linux based flash app, and "woot, there u go." Depending on which revision Xbox you have, you can even do a switched multi-bios with the stock xbox flash bios chip. It's not that hard to find all the resources on the net. Let's just say, I know it can be done & works.

And don't use the original formula Goof-Off for trying to clean anything plastic. One of my Commodore 1541 disk drives now has a vent hole in the top from trying to clean some marker off of it with that stuf. Thou it doesn't effect the plastic case's Atari used for the 400/800 computers, 810 interface, etc.. Thou the 800XL cases & later tended to melt too.

I have a Promenade C1 programmer for my C-64/128. It was just sitting in a box with a C-128D, 3 1541's drives, a joystick, and some other loose crap that I don't remember. Paid like $15 bucks for it all.