Waltermixxx

the SDrive automatically loads the menu program, and the Atari boots to that, i use the menu program to load all 4 disk drive slots, browsing through the files on the TV/monitor. Then i press the reset and it boots from the image I selected for Drive 0. I put the disk images on the SD card from my windows PC, i load up the sd card, then put it in the headless Sdrive. (I hope I understood the question correctly) Cheers. Just a thanks to the guys developing this, another thing to keep us busy Cheers guys.

I created an SDRIVE, with no display and only one button, a reset. it loads the menu and I use the keyboard to select a disk image on screen. If I want to select a different disk image to boot from I reset the arduino so all 4 of my disk selections are dropped and I can reload them not sure if this is helpful, but it does seem to work ok :).

Thanks for the link :). Yeah your right, I would have to make it accessible, to take advantage of the updates as they come. Could it be reflashed via bluetooth? I think the ESP32 has bluetooth built in? (one would still require access to the FLash button though so perhaps a mute point. ...) or just keep the 800xl lid unscrewed so to speak with the interface taped to the inside cover... I really need to give this all more thought. either way I'm excited, and I will be purchasing at least two of the final product when they are ready. Cheers.

I love this project, you guys are doing an awesome thing. I've ordered a couple of ESP32 Dev boards, and looking forward to building an internal fujinet, I think. I currently have a couple of the standard ESP8266 boards, but I think i want to use the ESP32 instead. keep up the good work folks, I will be happy to post pics of my install and any questions or issues along the way. Which brings me to my first question, is it ok to simply solder to the required pins of the SIO connector on the motherboard (using the current schematic, not directly to the ESP32, sorry if that was not clear), so as to avoid having to build an enclosure, and figure out physical connection issues (excellent details on DIY here, but I'm still hoping to just stick it to the inside of the top portion of the case, outside of the RF shield. at any rate once again folks, this is awesome. Also quick note, I listened to "Antic, the Atari 8bit Podcast Episode 63" that has a great interview with Thom. excellent excellent information in that interview.

So the 3 I ordered from bang good came, but were not the same as the previous two, even though it’s the same link. But the github had updated files for it https://github.com/kbr-net/sdrive-max/releases/download/v1.2b3/sdrive-max-v12b3.zip

So I built a little headless SDrive Max (i temperarily connected an LCD to get bast the touch screen calibration, so not it boots to D0 and the sdrivemax.atr file, so I have an on screen display) My home made unit uses the 7407 chip along with the two resisters...it's using a little SD board with level translaters built in. I was thinking it might be nice to also have an internal wifi device as well, I'm not not sure how to connect to internal devices? is there a trick to connecting two devices to the SIO bus? I have to admit I am not familiar with what is involved with the daisy chainging. Or do I just hook up everything to 4,3,5,7,10 for each device? No display on my Sdrive max, so very little current draw... and the ESP01 does not draw much either... any clues on connecting both internally at the same time? Cheers.

I ordered the proper 2.8” tft and came up right away, I ordered 5 in total, first 2 then 3 more once I know they were good with the ili9341 driver. Cheers. https://banggood.app.link/O7OmjwNo0Z

yup that driver worked for me and I have the same display. I'm going to take one of the available 3d printable cases, and adjust the window for the 2.4" display. if I succeed without too much frustation, i will post the result.

will do,

ok thank you for taking the time to respond. very much appreciated. Cheers.

Did you have to make any changes to the two files in zip? I tried Xloader with the display connected and it still did not work. I'm wondering if it can be "rebuilt" with the ID=0X6809 ?

Just to confirm, you were using the atmega328-ili9338.zip file posted above?

i was able to use the screen with the MCUFRIEND_kbv library, i ran the various examples, including the one that lets you calibrate the touch screen, and the one that gives information about the LCD. so I know the screen is working my screen said it as ID=0X6809 as indicated at the end of the graphictest_kvb sketch. i tried xloader without I think? would it make a difference? (sorry pretty new to this...)

I have the arduino Uno the one indicated as the Bestest Aruduino. But unfortunately I have the dreaded: ili9338 based disply... I tried to use the XLoader program to load the two files in the atmega328-ili9338 folder. First i loaded the eeprom_writer.hex, it successfully loaded, then I loaded the Sdrive.hex from the same folder. then powered down the unit and plugged in the display. and all I got was the white screen... is there any other trick to it? Cheers.

At the risk of sounding thick, does this software support the serial port on a V2 NanoPeb? I have one coming in the mail. I'm pretty new to them, a newbie in fact. What would the maximum speed be? (I would be connecting the serial port to an ESP12 device pre MAX232 on the board?) or just build a nice wifi modem and connect it to the NanoPeb via 9 pin serial connection Cheers.

Home made cartridge slot... i would think perhaps a burned out track on the bottom of the board... seeing as all the replacement chips worked on the other computer, I'm guessing that perhaps the reset circuit may also be affected, seems like it's not resetting... when you do find a schematic, have a look at the reset circuit... it might help? hope this is helpful

Buzz is subjective, how does one tell if they have a buzz or non buzz version? is it manufacture date? if you have nothing to compare it to, figuring if you have a buzz might be difficult? I regret getting rid of my spare Vectrex's... what if I have a no buzz machine...)

Hi there, I just started playing with the HC-05 bluetooth module which one can get for about $3.00 or less from china (or about $10.00 locally). at any rate, I connected one to my IMSAI clone (JAIR8080 system 8080A based single board computer with IMSAI Mini front panel) at any rate it's very very handy to use and easy to hook up. I suspect to hook it up to the existing serial port on the COCO i would need to tap into the digitil serial connectors (before conversion to RS232) in order to use it. I would still need to provide a level converter for the RX line of the HC-05 but thats a simple 2 resister affair. worse case, i would use a max232 and level converter and plug right into the back of the coco without any need to modify... just not sure how I want to go. Anyways after my success with the IMSAI, i may add bluetooth to all my retro computers that require a serial connection for any reason to a pc. or mobile device now that I think of it.

I have the manual printed out. but a one page cheat sheet is always appreciated. (as is the manual of course so props to the creator of the manual, and of course the device...and the guy who created the board and distributed it... and the guy who created disk images that would work on it...) I'm pretty sure I did not forget anyone... but if I did, thank you. Just a little note to say thanks... I love these modern gadgets for retro computers... it's the best. now for my "I obviously did not read the manual" type question: once a disk imaged is loaded to drive 0, how does one boot the disk image, instead of running or loadm'ing a file. I would like to play with 0S9 but not sure how to boot it... I thought Typing dos would boot but it doesnt, unless of course I dont have a proper OS9 image? (is it ok to send me disk images or post a link to them, I ask incase it's still in production" Cheers.

Sorry did not mean to hijack the thread. The podcast was excellent! All the FloppyDays podcast's are very well done. Tursi was a great guest. Great job!!

Great listen, made me dig out my TI-99/4a only to discover the keyboard no longer works, taking the keyboard apart, i noticed the membrane no longer makes connection to the pcboard the 9 strips are damaged or torn, and it seemed only the F key worked.... the computer is fine as I was able to start basic using the 1 key (shorting pin 7 and 8 on the ribbon cable to the main board from the keyboard). I was hoping to find a replacement keyboard (my preference) but i also dont mind building the keyboard replacement Tursi mentioned in the pod cast, but a crash on his website has rendered the links unusable. Does anyone have the schematic and hex files for his project? Tursi if you are out there, could you please post them again ... ( Oddly enough I was Flying back from Ottawa when I was listening to the podcast ) I'm pretty sure you mentioned you are now located in ottawa? we are setting up an office there, and I will be back there soon at any rate, any assistance would be great. cheers.

It's a vga break out baord... originally designed to be used with parallax propeller Chip. i think a lot of hobby electronic stores will seel "vga break out board" http://propellerpowered.com/forum/index.php?topic=42.0 not sure if they still sell them... but you should be able to find something similar on ebay?

i would have to go with No, we have these in our office, and I dont think they are multisync, they have very little in way of control. I would say try and get the nec monitor that is confirmed...

Sadness, just blew $50.00 for nothing... HiRes works but not low, or medium res on this monitor... i will try it with my Amiga which is Pal, i just noticed that the picture above indicates PAL... Tried it with my PAL A1200 and it works fine with multisync mode. but for some reason, (ok I know the reason) it wont work with Low or Med. res on Atari... hires does look great.

I'm picking up one of these this evening... hoping it works as well Cheers.