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esplonky

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Posts posted by esplonky

  1. Posted

    On 10/16/2019 at 7:45 PM, esplonky said:

    So I've reflowed the pins to the POKEY, SIO2PC, and RN2. Still have the same issue, however it may just need to be cleaned better.

    Most of my previous issues were from bad solder joints, and some excess flux that didn't come off for whatever reason, so if that turns out to be my issue I really won't be surprised.


    If I boot up without any boot interrupting settings enabled, I get the same issue. If I hold down SELECT while it boots, I get the same error message with a "[Device $00] command: $00, aux: $0000 ignored" every few clicks. It does cause some weird corruption on the U1MB Setup and other random glitches after I plug the SIO2PC in.

    I tried a different cable and also my SIO2PC USB with the same results.

    There was a point where the FTDI USB to Serial board had a small short which could have killed the IC on it so I'm probably going to end up replacing that soon. RN2 is seemingly fine, but from the top of the board it looks like a couple of joints need to be reflowed.

     

    Also, I am borrowing my 800XL's IC's for now as I wait for the IC's I purchased to be shipped, so that means I'm using 1 POKEY. Just to be sure, the Left POKEY channel is the one with the PIC underneath, and not the Resistor Networks and Transistors, right?



     

    My Issue turned out to be something of my own stupid doing. RN2 was on backwards so desoldering this, resoldering it (With a bit of a hack job) it is up and running smoothly!

     

    Pictures coming soon!!!

    • Like 6

  2. Posted

    So I've reflowed the pins to the POKEY, SIO2PC, and RN2. Still have the same issue, however it may just need to be cleaned better.

    Most of my previous issues were from bad solder joints, and some excess flux that didn't come off for whatever reason, so if that turns out to be my issue I really won't be surprised.


    If I boot up without any boot interrupting settings enabled, I get the same issue. If I hold down SELECT while it boots, I get the same error message with a "[Device $00] command: $00, aux: $0000 ignored" every few clicks. It does cause some weird corruption on the U1MB Setup and other random glitches after I plug the SIO2PC in.

    I tried a different cable and also my SIO2PC USB with the same results.

    There was a point where the FTDI USB to Serial board had a small short which could have killed the IC on it so I'm probably going to end up replacing that soon. RN2 is seemingly fine, but from the top of the board it looks like a couple of joints need to be reflowed.

     

    Also, I am borrowing my 800XL's IC's for now as I wait for the IC's I purchased to be shipped, so that means I'm using 1 POKEY. Just to be sure, the Left POKEY channel is the one with the PIC underneath, and not the Resistor Networks and Transistors, right?



     

  3. Posted

    Hi all,

    I've been having trouble with my 1088XEL since completing the build.

     

    I cannot get SIO2PC to work whatsoever. I'm not sure if it's user error as I've only used a stock 800XL before so I'm just used to loading a disk by booting the PC. I've tried both the built in SIO2PC and a Sloopy SIO2PC USB and get the same result. In RespeQT, it says "Port speed set to 19200 [x1]" and the green LED flashes on boot. When nothing is plugged into the built in SIO2PC, the LEDs both "pulse" and when I have the Sloopy SIO2PC plugged in, both LEDs stay "solid" with a really quick, really faint flicker. I've thought maybe there is some excess flux somewhere but after extensive cleaning in that area I can't see any left behind. Handshaking is setup as DSR on both ends, and I've tried other handshaking modes. There is a chance that I messed up the FTDI USB to Serial but that's an easy replacement. I'm more worried about the SIO circuit as a whole at the moment
     

  4. Posted · Edited by esplonky

    You say nothing’s happening but there’s not much that *can* happen without the chips. :) If you mean the yellow and green LED’s aren’t lighting up, then it could be as simple as the LED being soldered in backward (I did that the first time, d’oh!). Also, the power circuit of the XEL requires you to momentarily short two pins to turn the board on. These are intended to be wired to a momentary contact switch such as the front panel button on a mini-ATX case but you can touch the two pins with a metal screwdriver or something to trigger it.

     

    But if the LEDs are installed correctly, it could be anything, really. Have you verified tip polarity and the actual voltage coming from the the power supply? If so, then you need to break out the multimeter and start checking the power at some points around the bare board and see what’s going on. Google up the Atari IC pinouts or check Michael’s schematics to find the Vcc (+5V) and Vss (ground) points for each and ensure that you’re seeing very close to 5 volts at each Vcc point. If not, start tracing the schematics back to find out where the issue is. If those look good, start checking the Vcc and Vss points on each logic chip, etc.

    I know that my supply's polarity is Positive.

     

    I'm going to try and poke around the board for voltage this morning and see what I can get.

     

    Thanks!

     

     

    EDIT: I dug out my volt meter and guess what....

     

    1. I soldered the LEDs backwards :D (Always confused on what the long pin means)

     

    2. the Variable PSU I got from Best Buy is real finicky when it comes to the 5v channel. There's nothing indicating that all the way right means "0v" as it just sat 5v. Everything is getting 5v okay so I'm going to insert my chips and get her booting :)

  7. Posted

    Guys - my intention is not to run someone through the mud. He did not do anything VBXE related with bad intent. Bad things happen to good people.

     

    My only intent was to let people know that right now, something is going on.

     

    These threads are important, because had I known about this thread, I wouldn't have hit him up for the Atari 8-bit IC's 2 weeks ago (which I haven't heard much from him.)

     

    I consider him a close friend so I've been contacting him through Facebook.

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    Last night I got a "Defective" Dreamcast for free "If you can fix it."

    Looking around inside, I noticed that the "Lid Closed" lever looked weird, and couldn't figure out how the lid actually is supposed to trigger such a weird switch.

     

    I decided to look at a picture online of the Dreamcast Mobo and found that the switch isn't weird, it's missing the lever part and is just an empty rectangular shell with contacts at the bottom.

     

     

    Does anyone know of anywhere I could find a new switch or even a solution? I was thinking I could just make the switch 'always on' with a little bit of solder or something

  13. Posted · Edited by esplonky

    Not too many work with Linux, this one however does...

     

    http://www.batronix.com/shop/programmer/BX32/eprom-programmer.html

    That one is also way out of budget :)

     

    I don't care if it's just a cheap chinese one..

     

    I'm only going to use it for 2600 Carts really. If I get serious about programming EPROMS, then I'll buy a better one in the future, but right now I'm looking cheap

  17. Posted

    Like I've said in various threads . . . bracelets, necklaces, paperweights and so on can be made that have broken pieces of Atari junk from the famous landfill sealed inside of plastic. It doesn't matter what condition the broken stuff is in as long as it was made by Atari and it was found in the landfill. Every bracelet, necklace, paperweight or whatever would come with a certificate of authenticity.

     

    I would rock all of these every day of my life.

    • Like 2

  19. Posted

    "A Canadian-based multimedia entertainment company by the name of Fuel Industries plans on digging up the Alamogordo landfill in New Mexico, where Atari purportedly dumped truckloads of games decades ago"

     

     

     

    Uh, you DO know that New Mexico is in the U.S., right?

     

    Are you an idiot? This is the same mentality that started the Canadian/American War that freed the slaves in 1812.. Duh. :P

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    The first thing I look for in packaging is the trash bin. I guess I can understand if the presentation is pretty to aid the initial purchase. Problem with that theory is, most homebrew are purchased online where demo ROMs and information is readily available.

     

    So, I guess the perfect combination would be something presentable but utterly inexpensive for packaging.

     

    I have designed a package recently that I am going to present soon that is easily assembled, uses no glue, and fits on one standard sheet of Paper or Stock.

  21. Posted

    Hello, My name is Forrest, and one thing I admire so much about a product, is the package that it comes in. I think I was even more excited when I saw the box for my Galaxy S3 than when I opened it. One thing I am looking to do is to create a new style of packaging for the hobbyist or homebrew Atari programmers, that can be used on a budget and still look good.

     

    My fellow homebrew, hobbyist, or Atari Game Enthusiast, What do you look for in cartridge packaging?

  25. Posted

    I bought an Adventure cartridge today, because I didn't have one in my collection, and when I got home with it I realized there is a signature on the label, but it is not Warren Robinett's signature.

     

    this is the best picture I could get at the moment.

     

    oO6ybEo.jpg

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