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Everything posted by OX.

  1. Great idea, will there be some work in progress updates to show on here and what price are you looking to sell them for?
  2. My conclusion after my own failed experience of trying to get a PAL TI99 to component cable to work would be to get hold of the PHA 2037 schematic and re-create the circuit to output RGB, anyone up for this? Perhaps the standard PAL RF modulator can be modified for RGB and not only composite?
  3. What Retrospect has already said, basically the TI994/A failed because most of it's (admitedly later) competition just ran straight out of the box, all the expensive add-on's required held back software development and users jumped ship to other platforms as the market matured. Just one of those things really, TI went in early attempted to set the standard and the competition learned from their mistakes and the rest is history. A fully expanded system was no less capable than the other systems of the time but just how many users had a "fully expanded system" back in the day? With all that said and done we now live in the age of hindsight and get to experience the software from the like of Rasmus Moustguard to show us how it should have been back in the day.
  4. I'm surprised we have'nt had a Rohypnol related Cosby game yet.
  5. Suncom Tac-2 or Competition Pro 5000
  6. I remember that Retro Computer Shack and others stopped making them specifically because of the fact that they only work on a limited number of tv's, so it's use the cable and find a tv set that it works with - or - composite mod in rf modulator - or - F18A upgrade.
  7. OX.

    OT: Grail

    Jupiter Ace? We have a Gamebase for that - https://www.4shared.com/zip/aupOOevdfi/Jupiter_Ace_by_Manguan.html http://www.gb64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5495
  8. I don't suppose there is any simple way of running a pal system at the same speed as an NTSC system, like a timing crystal change? I'm guessing you'd need to replace the VDP also.
  9. I have a feeling that it would be better to use an NTSC console with a UK PSU as the games would all run full speed or is this not the case?
  10. It seems this is my final option, iv'e tried making a din to component cable (the output is stripey on my lcd tv as was the same as your cable Ciro), I also bought a converter box to see it that would help - it didn't. The only problem I have with the composite mod for my plastic modulator box is it looks a bit Heath Robinson, but hey if it works .. it works, so I'll look to get some components to do the mod and get it sorted.
  11. Does anyone know how to make a composite video output (and audio) mod directly in the TI99/4a console instead of modding the RF Modulator? This would be primarily for a PAL system, don't know if it would be much different for an NTSC system.
  12. I'd love to see you complete that TI99/4a version of Nebulus you started Rasmus.
  13. @Schmitzi wow! Christmas just came early, an Editor/Assembler cart you say? Yes and how abouts :- Alpiner, Munchman, Disk Manager 2, TI Invaders, Adventure and Terminal Emulator II !! A great (and unexpected) mix of useful utility and classic game carts. Mega thanks, OX
  14. I only have the Extended Basic cart with my 99 and could use an Editor/Assembler cart if anyone has a spare, I don't see these come up on Ebay in the UK I think it's a case of everyone just has the one E/A cart with their system.
  15. He's just upped the price of the joystick adaptor to £119.00 ($154.88), It's got to be someone taking the p*ss. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ti994a-DUAL-joystick-adapter-3d-printed-CASE/183535948761?hash=item2abb9853d9:g:o~IAAOSwUsxbJO1h
  16. and don't forget the joystick adaptor (in 3d printed case) for only £109.00, that's a bargain $142.53 for you guys in the USA
  17. Just to add to this thread, the cable I built was exactly to spec the same as ti99iuc's, both cables gave the same results on my Samsung TV's so I then tried the cable with a converter box to convert from component video to hdmi in attempt to "clean" the signal from the TI, this also failed to work. Haven't tried adding any 330 Ohm pull-down resisitors though - maybe this will finally help.
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