Finn

Everything seems to go well as it boots to basic and starts to load the game, but soon after it goes to the self-test screen. This happens with every tape I've tried and the games are all new old stock. All the cartridge games work fine though. Any thoughts what might be wrong?

It also works fine with 64 bit Windows 7, so it's a great little program in that regard.

Of course they are real, how else would you save your progress in games like Pokemon? To be sure if you got a real or fake, you need to check the mainboard and the one pictured here without the label clearly has "Nintendo" stamped on it, so it's legit.

I don't see how? I just said that if he offered international shipping w. PayPal this would've been sold 2 months ago. There are A LOT of collectors outside the US with money to spend. For example, I can easily spot a dozen games from that list that I need for my own collection.

Ok, I bought a set of machines on their way to recycling, and there was this 3.5" Brother FB 300 disk drive in there (sitting on top of the ST). It seems to have an Atari type DIN-connector in it, but smaller. I'm not really sure if it even is for ST. I couldn't find any info on the drive, so any help would be appreciated. edit: I did find about the FB 100 that is for a knitting machine, but this has a different connector and doesn't look like anyhting like the 100 model.

Too bad you don't ship abroad and have PayPal. I'd give you $100 for the lot.

Unlikely, because the same effect is seen on 64C that should be more compatible with the original 64. Even with C64 -> C64C, you'd pretty much need to change it chip by chip and see if the damn thing even works after that! But I don't see this as a big problem when you can usually find C64's cheap and most people only use them for games so there's no real reason to get any of the other models. Unless you're a collector of course.

I think people are looking for certain xx-in-1 carts and are willing to pay more. The regular pirate versions that only include one single game are really not worth the effort. Very few even collect Famicom versions, and I bet most of them want the original cart. So if you plan to make something out of it, get those zillion-in-1 carts and put them on eBay. I'm sure the average price will be around $15-20. But instead of doing that, I'd go to Japan and buy all the rare/expensive (from western standpoint) shmups and then sell them on eBay for $80-150.

I first though it was the RF-unit leaking the signal. Then I remembered someone mentioning, that one of the chips was the culprit and that it was hard to determine how to actually fix it as there were a lot of places the signal might get the interference. edit: And of course the signal from the C64 is just regular composite, so it really doesn't matter if you have AV or SCART connection. It's just a norm in Europe to go with the DIN -> SCART as every TV supports it.

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I wasn't sure if this was mentioned. The 64C has stronger vertical stripes on the background when used with a SCART-cable. I noticed, that with all the breadboxes I've seen, the stripes are more inconspicuous than in 64C. The C128 also has it pretty bad and the stripes are much more noticeable than in regular C64. I've had several 64C's and 128's go through my hands, and they all showed the same symptoms. So in that regard, any PAL-user who plans to use their CRT with a SCART should consider getting the breadbox.