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Everything posted by Lodmot
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Actually it is a little off-center. As I was placing the text in Gimp, I had a picture of the real atari hex logo zoomed in, to help as a reference. I guess it's either like that on the real hex logo's as well, or the angle at which the camera was pointing at them was not perfectly streight.
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What would I do with them though, if I already made my own? o3o
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Well I looked up pictures of the controllers with the hex inserts still attached, and all the photos I found online showed the word "ATARI" on them. I have also seen pictures of the sears ones as well.
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I wonder how long mine will stay on for. I just used double-sided scotch tape to paste them on xDD
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Alright. So I finally got my CX-10's in the mail. I tested them out, and I was pleasantly surprised to find out that they both work nearly flawlessly. One of them doesn't respond when you push the joystick down, but the other one works perfectly. The orange border has only slightly faded on one of the controllers, but other than that, they both look very nice. So after testing them and finding out how each of the controllers worked, I went ahead and put the hex logos on. This is how it came out: I'm really pleased with the way these controllers look. One thing I found kinda funny was, the tops of the joysticks are actually rubbery. I thought it was just solid plastic, but with the CX-10's (at least certain revisions of them), you can actually push the top of the joystick in and out slightly, and they're rubberized.... Weird...
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It's most likely just going to be on paper unfortunately. I do have aluminum foil in the house, but that would probably not go through the printer so well. xDDDD Even if it did, the Atari logo would come out in a sort of aluminum color, which actually would look kinda cool.
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Just tried making a "practice" hex logo. The actual controller it's attached to is a spare CX-40 I had hanging on the ceiling, as you can tell. I think it came out pretty nice, as accurate as I can tell from pictures I've seen of real ones online. The only thing I'll have to keep in mind when pasting the logos onto the real CX-10 controllers, is I have to be careful when cutting them out, so their shape fits comfortably inside the "ditch" in the top of the joystick
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I heard it was made out of a thin aluminium. I was going to print mine on regular paper and coat the top of it with packaging tape to give it a sheen.
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http://www.atarimani..._2600_roms.html There ya go. ^^ They're sorted too.
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What would win in a duel to the death? The Harmony Cart, or the Atari RomScanner? XDDD
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RomScanner. Always wanted one ever since I became one of the flies around the Atari 2600 demonstration units, fitted with a RomScanner or something similar, at Greenes of Debenham's in Bangor in the early eighties. I won't be adding Megamania or Plaque Attack to my collection until I can play them on the same setup as I did back then.

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I moved a discussion I was having in the Marketplace/Wanted forum to this thread, because I felt it was getting too off-topic from the original post (which had already been resolved, anyway). So, I decided I wanted to make my own hex logos for these two CX-10 controllers that I just ordered. I understand it will probably decrease (or maybe just not change) the controllers' values, because they're not the real labels, but I don't plan on selling the controllers. Lol. Here's the graphics I made for the hex shapes I'm gonna use for the CX-10's. Feel free to use them if you want to try it: I was thinking of doing the same thing I did to a Colecovision cartridge that originally had a very trashed label. I went online, found a high-res version of the label, printed it out to scale with the original as best as I could. Then I cut it out and trimmed it to make sure it would fit on the cart. Then I finally laid some double-sided tape on the area where the label would be placed on, and carefully laid iit on there, making sure I lined it up on the cartridge correctly. Finally, to make the label less prone to damage, I put a layer of clear packaging tape ontop of the label, and this was the final result. I did this almost a year ago, and it's still nice and secure onto the cartridge. Here's what came of that: I don't have any fancy coating materials or special label-printing equipment. I just used a regular printer and paper. And I have a very meticulous, steady hand when it comes to arts and crafts, which helped get the label shaped just right.
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Actually I was going to do what I did with my Zaxxon cart for ColecoVision. Its original label was terribly messed up, so I pulled it off Then I went online, found a high-res version of the label, printed it out to scale with the original as best as I could. Then I cut it out and trimmed it to make sure it would fit on the cart. Then I finally laid some double-sided tape on the area where the label would be placed on, and carefully laid iit on there, making sure I lined it up on the cartridge correctly. Finally, to make the label less prone to damage, I put a layer of clear packaging tape ontop of the label, and this was the final result. I did this almost a year ago, and it's still nice and secure onto the cartridge. But now I'm getting off-topic, so I'm gonna continue this in a different thread.
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Thanks! And yeah, it seems to be a curved hex-shape. I've actually had a CX10 before, but at the time I didn't know what it was, or the difference between a CX-40 and a CX-10. I just thought there was something wrong with it because the joystick was so loose. XP
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I was gonna make my own. I thought it'd be kinda fun. Lol. Tonight I even put together some graphics that I would print out and use for it:
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I will. Thanks. ^^ Now I'll have a complete heavy sixer. I plan on hopefully fixing these controllers if they don't work (I assume not, because apparently the CX-10s are known for that I guess) And I was planning on reconditioning them with new hex logos. In case you or anyone else is interested, here's the listing that I found them at: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 280859138653
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I found 2 for 40 dollars! HAH! Better deal than I was hoping for actually. The guy actually had 6 in his stock.
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Really? Fudge.... Well, I'll spend about 40-50 for one. The other thing I thought of was, maybe perhaps someone on eBay is selling one for like 10 dollars. That happens sometimes, people will sell something just to try and get rid of it, without realizing that what they're selling happens to be a rare collector's item. XD
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Hi. This may seem like a ridiculous request, but does anyone have one or two CX-10 joysticks they'd like to sell? I have a heavy sixer 2600, and would like to have at least one of the original controllers to make it more complete. They do not have to be in working condition either-- I've got a knack for mechanics and Atari stuff. I've looked everywhere else, ePay, amazon, etc, but had no luck finding any. Thanks ^^
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Interesting.. I wonder if there's a way to have the background fade between all those shades of colors. I don't think I'd have enough code to do it in Game Catcher at this point, because I had just about 200 bytes left to work with in the bank where the titlescreen is. But for my other game that I want to do the color fade effect for, I'll definitely have to try this out. Also, any way to translate that into bB?
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Sweet ^^ My first R9 was Swordquest WaterWorld. 0:
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Uhh..... well.... that would probably work. Part of the problem is, I am not trained in electronics. However, yes, both controllers do it, but it seems to happen at different times, they don't press the fire button at the same time. I stupidly threw out a spare board from a light-sixer that I was practicing using the soldering iron on, so I'd have to buy it elsewhere. I seem to remember switching the TIA and the problem was still there. (I actually kept the three removable chips from the board I threw out by the way)
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Nope. Cute cart though. ^^
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Yeah, sorry Brad. HOWEVER, what's that on the right edge of the picture? THAT looks like it could be a heavy sixer, judging by the sides I see there.
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Ah, boy... This is gonna be hard for me to decypher. I'm not really all that good with electronics. It's probably easier if I'm looking at this diagram while I have the unit apart in front of me.
