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Lodmot

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Posts posted by Lodmot

  1. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    Actually I was going to do what I did with my Zaxxon cart for ColecoVision.

    Its original label was terribly messed up, so I pulled it off

    Then I went online, found a high-res version of the label, printed it out to scale with the original as best as I could.

    Then I cut it out and trimmed it to make sure it would fit on the cart.

    Then I finally laid some double-sided tape on the area where the label would be placed on, and carefully laid iit on

    there, making sure I lined it up on the cartridge correctly. Finally, to make the label less prone to damage, I put a layer of

    clear packaging tape ontop of the label, and this was the final result. I did this almost a year ago, and it's still nice and

    secure onto the cartridge.

     

    But now I'm getting off-topic, so I'm gonna continue this in a different thread.

     

    photobucket-1451-1333722516801.jpg

    photobucket-2080-1333722540415.jpg?t=1333722541

  2. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    Looks sweet! So correct me if I'm wrong but the cx-10 has a hex pattern instead of a Circle or what?

    Thanks! :D

    And yeah, it seems to be a curved hex-shape.

    I've actually had a CX10 before, but at the time I didn't know what it was, or the difference between a CX-40 and a CX-10. I just thought there was something wrong with it because the joystick was so loose. XP

  6. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    Really?

    Fudge....

    Well, I'll spend about 40-50 for one.

    The other thing I thought of was, maybe perhaps someone on eBay is selling one for like 10 dollars.

    That happens sometimes, people will sell something just to try and get rid of it, without realizing that what they're selling happens to be a rare collector's item. XD

  7. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    Hi.

    This may seem like a ridiculous request, but does anyone have one or two CX-10 joysticks they'd like to sell?

    I have a heavy sixer 2600, and would like to have at least one of the original controllers to make it more complete.

    They do not have to be in working condition either-- I've got a knack for mechanics and Atari stuff.

     

    I've looked everywhere else, ePay, amazon, etc, but had no luck finding any.

     

    Thanks ^^

  8. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    Interesting..

    I wonder if there's a way to have the background fade between all those shades of colors.

    I don't think I'd have enough code to do it in Game Catcher at this point, because I had just about 200 bytes left to work with in the bank where the titlescreen is. But for my other game that I want to do the color fade effect for, I'll definitely have to try this out.

     

    Also, any way to translate that into bB?

  10. Posted

    Uhh..... well.... that would probably work.

    Part of the problem is, I am not trained in electronics.

    However, yes, both controllers do it, but it seems to happen at different times, they don't press the fire button at the same time.

    I stupidly threw out a spare board from a light-sixer that I was practicing using the soldering iron on, so I'd have to buy it elsewhere.

    I seem to remember switching the TIA and the problem was still there. (I actually kept the three removable chips from the board I threw out by the way)

  16. Posted

    I know bB cannot handle more than 2 sprites on the same horizontal row but I swear I've seen assembly examples that do this. Can anyone point to a good example with source for multi sprite without flicker?

    Boulder Dash can do it too, but in that game the pixels are drawn every other horizontal line for some reason.

    I don't think it's really worth the aggravation, because it's Atari 2600. You can't expect too much.

     

    Also, I made a game that uses the multisprite kernel, and it has flicker as well, but the objects in my game move very quickly around the screen, so the flicker isn't even that noticeable.

  17. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    Interesting..

    Isn't there a way you can check a capacitor by seeing whether it buldges or leaks?

    In a well-lit room, I can probably backtrack pin 6 to the TIA by its trace on the board and see what components are on it, and where they are on the board.

  18. Posted

    Actually, maybe what you can do is program it to make full use of the DualCommand controller, which has the paddle AND joystick all in one.

    The player can hold the controller horizontally, use the paddle knob to move the character around, push the joystick up to jump, and the fire button to attack?

    I think the controller pinouts for the paddle knob and the regular joystick controls don't conflict with each other, so maybe it's possible to read both sets of controls simultaneously?

    Though that may feel a bit awkward holding it in your hand that way.

  19. Posted

    I would guess that using a VCR would actually make the signal slightly worse, although it probably wouldn't be noticable.

    The reason being, it's not as direct of a connection as if you were just hooking it up streight into the TV. I also think that

    has something to do with the fact that using one of those tiny golden RadioShack RF adapters results in a much clearer

    picture than with the Atari's original RF box.

  20. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    I have a heavy sixer 2600 model. I originally bought it for 34 dollars in non-working condition for the sole purpose of seeing if I could actually get it working.

    When I first got it, it had no RF cable, wouldn't turn on, and had a bad PIA chip. I've given it an RF cable, replaced the PIA and fixed the switchboard so that it turns on now. At this point, the system is nearly perfect in functionality except for one last issue.

     

    What happens is, at first, the system seems to play fine without any errors. But then over time, the fire button will automatically get triggered by itself. The weird part is, it happens only occasionally at first, then it slowly increases in the rate it does it. By the time 30 minutes has gone by, the fire button will act as if it's being completely held down all the time, even when you're not doing anything. The effect also happens without controllers plugged in, so it's obviously the system itself. I should also note that while this glitch is occurring, the system will however still detect regular fire button presses from the controller as it should be.

     

    Upon researching the way the 2600 works, it seems like the issue has to do with the RIOT chip. I've already replaced all 3 chips, and from what I gather, the problem is still there anyway. I'm hoping there's an easy solution to this problem that doesn't require using a soldering iron, because I really would hate to mess up this unit, because it's a heavy sixer and such.. If I have to though, I probably will.

     

    Even if the problem is the RIOT chip, I've looked around online for a spare RIOT chip which I can purchase, and found absolutely nothing.

     

    Anyone got any ideas? Thankies.

  21. Posted

    Its funny this question was brought up. Originally the 2600 was meant to be another type of pong system. Amazingly, it turned out to be much more than that.

    For it, I've managed to create a shooter game, a vehicular combat game inspired from Twisted Metal, and another completely original game. All the games I've written for the 2600 have music, titlescreens, and two of them have working menu screens, all things Atari probably never anticipated for the system. And to think it was supposed to be merely just another pong system. Its really stunning.

  22. Posted

    I have to say the Atari 2600 is best, hands down, because of Batari Basic.

     

    Just the fact that I can program my own games easily for the 2600 makes it so much more fun, especially because I've always had a deep passion to make video games.

    Batari Basic, the Harmony cart, and the Atari 2600 have allowed me to see my game ideas and concepts being played on a TV with a game controller.

  24. Posted · Edited by Lodmot

    Well, granted, I did get it to look nicer than I was thinking I could... but I'd still like it to be better xDDD

    I ish picky that way. > :D

     

    EDIT: This is pretty sweet. I actually managed to get a pretty nice color-fading effect that I like.

    Only issue is, it uses a bit more variables than I'd like.. Perhaps I can condense the amount of variables down somehow..

     

    But anyway, take a look. Oh, and if anyone wants to use the code, by all means go for it. ^^

    default.bas.bin

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