monzamess

I call backup... wow.

Thanks, I appreciate your follow-up here. Also, sorry for junking up your thread. I really like the device and the only problems I've had with it are my (or my cat's) fault.

So... I suspected something like that should be the case, but when I checked various points with a meter, I found full continuity between these points: - USB +5v line on the STM32 (on what was left of the trace after that connector was ripped off) - pin labeled "5v" on the STM32 - pin 2 of the SD Card connector on the ST/E hard disk PCB - "vcc" on the SD card reader I get that maybe some of those are supposed to be 3.3v and by supplying 5v I'm potentially risking damage... But then why did those points all show full continuity with the 5v input line?

I cut open and soldered a USB inline power switch to +5V and Ground where the SD card PCB connects, and now it's working again (if a bit janky looking).

One of my adorable cats yanked the USB cable off of my unit and the carnage is in the attached image. Assuming I only need ground and 5V going into the STM32, is this salvageable? I think so (I'll try something to get it going again) but always welcome opinions from others...

This bug?

After 20 years these probably aren't available, but hey, let us know if it works out.

I'll keep posting random stuff whenever, kind of a half-assed blog. Next: Before and after "sunbriting" my IIgs for a full day (rotating things to follow the sun). It wasn't badly yellowed to start, but it was very noticeable particularly on the left side of the main unit and monitor. The results are not 100% but it lightened up pretty evenly and looks OK now.

Thanks! It's important to me to be able to see them on display (yay dopamine hits) but also that they are working and usable. I think they'd look better on a long white built-in desk-thingy with good lighting, shelving, etc. but I haven't wanted to commit to furniture beyond the folding tables so far--unfortunately they are starting to sag...

A loaded IIe:

I collected 80s computers in the early 90s, then sold almost all of them because emulators, and then decided I missed real hardware so I started again. I restarted the collection in 2010 with just a couple of computers that were impactful in my life (PCjr, Apple IIe) and it just exploded from there. Even looking for good deals, it's hard to pay $$$ for things that were basically e-waste in the 90s, but when I look at what I've spent over the last 12 years, it's still a pretty cheap hobby. It is fun playing with the modern devices people have created; that was the game-changer for me. For now, I think I'm done adding new platforms and slowing down on new gadgets for them. My classic computers: Commodore VIC-20 (w/PET keys), Penultimate+ cart, SD2IEC, color-matched (sort of) TV as a monitor TI-99/4A, Speech synth, FinalGROM, nanoPEB, color-matched (sort of) TV as a monitor Atari 600XL, 64K upgrade, UAV, Ultimate 1MB, SIDE3, FujiNet, SIO2SD, Panasonic video monitor w/S-Video Commodore 64, Ultimate II+, WiFi modem, 1702 monitor Apple //e enhanced (white key print/started as unenhanced), Disk II, SDFloppy II, 80 col/64K, Super Serial, Classic IDE, Mockingboard replica, FASTChip 16mhz+512K, Uthernet II, Mouse card + mouse, No-slot clock, Color Monitor IIe IBM PCjr (128K + Floppy model), Gotek floppy emu, Speech attachment, two parallel sidecars (one modified to LPT2), Internal modem, Serial mouse, Keytronic numeric keypad, PCjr speedup board (switchable), Tandy mod (switchable), Xircom parallel ethernet, jrIDE w/1GB DOM, PCjr montior Apple IIgs, replaced battery, 3.5 drive (replaced eject gear), GGLABS 4MB RAM, BMOW FloppyEmu, Apple IIgs monitor Tandy Color Computer 3, 6309 CPU, 512k, mini-MPI, CocoSDC, CocoDAC-16, Magnavox 8CM515 monitor Atari 1040ST, Rainbow TOS 1.4, ASCI2STM, Gotek Floppy emu, Mouse master, SC1224 monitor Commodore Amiga 500, Gotek Floppy emu, 8MB+IDE+Kickstart 3.1 combo, 1084S monitor Timex Sinclair 2068, Twister board w/RGB out, MaxDuino, RGB-HDMI converter, LCD TV Timex Sinclair 1000, composite mod, Microswitch keyboard, vLA81, ZXPand+, WiFi modem, Sony PVM-97 monochrome monitor Sinclair ZX Spectrum 48k, composite mod, DivMMC Tandy MC-10, composite mod, MCX-32 SD Partially pictured or not pictured: NABU PC, RS-422 adapter ZX Omni Various PCs and laptops from early 2000s-up Atari 130XE Atari 400 Commodore VIC-20 (C64-like keys) Commodore 64 #2 Timex Sinclair 2068 #2 IBM PCjr w/jrIDE #2 Timex Sinclair 1000, my first computer ever, barely clinging to life (disintegrating membrane flex cable + flaky ULA) -- I keep it in a display cabinet

There was also "The Visible Computer" by Software Masters but it appears they only released it for Apple 2, C64, and a separate 8088 version for IBM PC.

The 65XE package here is a killer deal and if I didn't already have something similar, I'd buy it! Also, I did a recent transaction with Tuxon86 that went well. Free bump.

Looking for a working VIC-20 BASIC ROM 901486-01 for around $15 shipped (in USA). Let me know!

Following up to myself: read several related threads. Inspired by the thread below, I suspected the crystal X101. I reflowed the solder to it and I got color back! Then it went away after I reassembled the entire unit. Took it back apart again, hit it again with the iron, tested, reassembled. Color out of sync on first boot, but it worked every power cycle after that. So either the part is marginal or I did a bad job twice of reflowing the solder. If I upgrade the video I'll replace the crystal at the same time (I assume they're available). Otherwise I'm going to leave it assembled. Afraid of breaking more things (the plastic cartridge guide already lost a clip...).

I am necro-bumping this thread because I find myself in a similar position and seek advice. I have a 400 that arrived fully functional, including color output, but really dirty. I disassembled the entire unit, cleaned it, and reassembled it. Now it only outputs black and white (every other function seems ok). I tried adjusting the color pot (I even used Deoxit) and at one extreme, I get faint rainbow patterns on the display but not the solid blue of Memo Pad. During my cleaning I didn't intentionally turn that pot and now I think I screwed up something else. What should I check next? Thanks for any help!

That looks like a standard 520STfm: http://www.computinghistory.org.uk/det/2578/Atari-520-STFM/ It replaced the original 520ST. It was my first ST BITD. By my understanding it was basically a 1040ST with half the RAM, single-sided drive, and with the RF modulator. I had mine upgraded to 1MB and double-sided drive. The 520STfm is pretty common and I don't think it would be too unusual to encounter an upgraded example "in the wild" making the situation even more confusing.

Thank you for following up -- still kinda sucks but I'm less likely to think it's something I messed up.

I performed the composite sync mod to my 1040STF today. My board looks just like rainwarrior's above. I am using the Cool Novelties SCART cable and this "Mcbazel" version of the HD converter box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUNIVRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I verified that this setup doesn't work without the sync mod, and that it does work with it. I am using a Dell 2001FP monitor which DOES actually sync to the ST using a pass-through ST->VGA cable, however, there are jailbars, the picture in medium res is especially ugly, and of course this monitor requires adjusting the screen position EVERY time the computer resets. I thought I would give this other route a try. The positive is that the picture going through this setup (ST -> SCART cable -> box -> HDMI-DVI-cable -> 2001FP) looks better than the straight VGA route. However, it's noticeably dimmer than the VGA route even after maxing out the brightness on the monitor. This happens with my Coco3 using the same HD box and monitor as well (brighter uglier picture with VGA, better but dimmer picture with DVI). I appreciate any thoughts on why the picture might be dim; I guess the common elements are the monitor and the HD box so maybe it has nothing to do with the computers or SCART cables. At least now I can try other HD monitors and maybe relegate the 2001FP back to other duties.

And thank Google Lens for indexing that auction already.

Hmm... https://www.ebay.com/itm/175132195968

I never tried the Apple adapter. I am now using this CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 power adapter (plus inline power switch) that I had on-hand for my Pi 3: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Listed/dp/B00MARDJZ4 NOTE: I actually bought this "NorthPada" Raspberry Pi 3 adapter just for the ASCI2STM: https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU but it doesn't work with the ASCI2STM. It works fine with my Pi so I just swapped this with the CanaKit.

Bought a Mac Mini for a great price. @Dopy25 shipped quickly and safely.

Thanks for the tip! I have a similarly-specced Samsung adapter that is flaky in this usage. Only a computer has provided reliable power for it and that's not practical for my setup. I'll try the Apple adapter.

Understand about the lighting issues but I have what I have, and that's not a photography studio. Since I had the 1040ST open to fit a Gotek, I took a picture of the inside of the bottom case compared to the outside of the top case. Often, the inside of a computer case can avoid the yellowing effects over time (but not always). In this picture you can see the inside color is quite similar to the outside color which is also quite similar to the color of the mouse, which didn't originally come with this computer. So maybe this 1040ST started life a different shade of gray than the 130XE, maybe not.