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About iesposta

  • Rank
    River Patroller
  • Birthday 06/15/1967

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  • Custom Status
    Retro-gaming w/my VCS
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  • Interests
    2600, 2600 music & sound, Vectrex, mods, Sega Genesis, MacOSX, 7800, Atari 800XL, Colecovision, pinball
  • Currently Playing
    Super Cobra Arcade 2600
  • Playing Next
    Wizard of Wor Arcade

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  1. I’m interested to hear what you like too. My system, after cleaning and preventative maintenance, shows that it was very well used for a long time as it came with many games and extra controllers. My favorite is The Incredible Wizard. If that game just named what it is, Wizard Of Wor, I believe that this system would have been more popular, or at least more well known. The audio and sound effects (minus speech) are exactly like the arcade coin-op. If you don’t get one of those multi-carts, it’s an easy title to get. The homebrew games of War (Warlords), and Crazy Climber show what great ports can be done, although I would guess finding carts of those game would be difficult and expensive.
  2. It wasn’t the copyright, the carts violated the rules of this website (they were original unmodified code) and one person complained. In the end they are no different than a flash cart full of original game ROMs, but that’s just a weird fact of the website versus the end user providing the ROMs. It never crossed my mind until it was announced these would not be available.
  3. No, not at all. In that case it is more important to recreate the sound of the arcade original you are porting. I realized very quickly the first time I heard Star castle Arcade’s siren that it was what the original game does and something that I didn’t think the 2600 could create.
  4. Dionoid, Remarking on your “sliding sound” mp3 file you posted. As an effect, that’s an amazing sound that doesn’t seem like it should come from the 2600! To use it in a game as a sound effect would be amazing, even if it has noisy pops. Used all the time like a continuous background sound, not as an effect, then yes the noise would make it bad.
  5. It would seem some part or chip is still pulling all the voltage to ground. You just need to keep going until you find it. I only had one Sears Heavy 6er that did not work when I bought it, and it was a TIA chip that was gray - some of the first ones made. The old 6ers have socketed chips, and I think I swapped that and the RIOT with different ones and that now works. I many different machine versions (even different companies) that play 2600 carts and they all still work.
  6. Dionoid, I don’t understand exactly what you are trying, but the following may or may not help. Both channels at high or full volume can sound distorted. A sound’s volume value going from 0, to on, and back to zero can cause a pop. Maybe because that is how samples are played - just by changing the volume register rapidly (and nothing else). If you just change the volume alternating each frame on and off you get a sound. Maybe none of that helps, and maybe you already knew this? But I’m all for experiments on new sounds.
  7. Re: “Much higher quality” I have a late release PAL 2600 Millipede box—those red label releases? It is very poor quality cardboard. The materials AtariAge uses are so much better!
  8. iesposta


    Why 2 Players and not one quad-size Player? If you have single line color changes you could match each piece color exactly and smoothly move it in any way. But remember to keep things simple and easy for you. Using a Player to move the piece around is just another visual add-on effect.
  9. Re: Repair Reheat the solder connection of the power jack to the board. This often cracks between the pins and the trace, either visibly or internally, due to the force of plugging it in. Tip: Because it is quite a large pad of solder, make sure the heat is applied FOR A WHILE so BOTH the pin on the jack and the solder pad are hot. Allow it to cool slowly, without bumping it, so the joint is strong. The outer pin is ground, and the 2 other inner pins are positive (and connected together) and should measure 9V to 15V DC. Power then goes through the connecting wires to the power switch on the switch board. Looking top down at the power switch, the bottom right should be 0.0V when off. When switched on, all pins should be at (or close) to the input jack voltage. TIP: Test for voltage with red probe, and put black probe on a ground board trace — not just shielding or the outer jack connector. Ground traces can usually be identified as large areas of circuit board copper (usually around the outside), also capacitors usually have one side on ground (and are marked with negative so the other side is ground). The power goes by the green rectangle capacitor right below the switch (above the 5 volt regulator). I have needed to replace that capacitor on 2 machines because it went bad. It causes a very “snowy” RF output picture. It is a recommended change on any refurbishment.
  10. iesposta


    I would rather play Andrew’s 2600 chess.
  11. Suggestion: If the DC voltage from the wall adapter is not getting to this 5V regulator, that is the first problem. Trace the 9-14 volts DC from the power jack with the meter to find out where it goes bad.
  12. iesposta


    The website is now behind a Password Login, sadly. Hopefully there are good things to come.
  13. iesposta


    I think I would draw the pawns with a double line base and a single line at the top. (But that’s just me.) ||-|• I like your display a lot. I can recognize each piece easily. I can’t wait to try it out displayed from my Heavy Sixer RF on a CRT Tv.
  14. Be on the lookout for New Choplifer: https://youtu.be/K3mXnagb4do
  15. You have my permission to make a cart from the posted ROM. I’ll update the first post. I don’t intend to make this an AtariAge store release. The hack was to be a Doctor Who game. I also was thinking about making another expanded Berzerk with sampled speech, because the updates like no HMOVE lines, diagonal shots, and options menu improve the Atari original release a lot.
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