wildstar87

No idea if this is your issue, but if your TV is like the LCD I just had issues with, if your Chroma signal isn't working, it won't display anything. Even if you are using composite, if the chroma isn't working, it won't combine in the composite signal. My issue was two things, the LCD didn't want to display even B/W picture, if Chroma signal wasn't there in the S-video connection, even using UGV didn't work. The second reason, was the cause of the no Chroma signal, the color adjustment pot wasn't working quite right, so wasn't putting out either the right voltage, or no voltage. Working it back and forth, caused it to start working again, and after putting some Deoxit and working back and forth again, it's working perfectly. Now the input to the LCD is working, but I had to plug it into another monitor (CRT) to see the problem, though the Retrotink that I literally just got, also showed the problem. I was just using the native S-video input on the LCD before. Though you say you hear some audio, but is it the standard Atari audio sounds during startup? Also on the LCD I had, it has a speaker bar on it, but if it doesn't actually display anything, it doesn't turn on the audio either. Also, was this machine verified working before? Is this the same one that you were modding the PAL board?

It was the god damn color pot.. Checked the color signal on a oscope, looked very different from the working machines, went through the Sams troubleshoting for color, which had me look at voltage while adjusting the pot, went back to the oscope signal, and looked very different from before, more like the signals from the working computers. Plugged it in, and damned if it wasn't coming up green. Sprayed some deoxit in it, worked it around, then adjusted it back to the standard blue background. That's all it was..

Not sure if you read the other thread, but long story short, the machine has an issue with the Chroma line that I have to figure out, but the LCD monitor I'm using, won't display without both signals present, so even though Luma was working, Chroma wasn't, so it refused to display, even in B/W. Chroma is mostly non-functional out of the UGV, I'm getting a repeating, momentary color flicker, so have to find out why it's doing that.

Well, I feel kind of stupid, but it wasn't exactly obvious. I didn't have a CRT handy, so was using S-video input on an LCD. Turns out there is a Sony PVM at work, so I plugged in my problem machine into that CRT, low and behold, I got a picture, only a B/W picture though. The LCD apparently doesn't display a picture, if it doesn't get both Luma AND Chroma signals, I verified this by removing the Chroma lead from the UGV (on a working machine) and it no longer displayed on my LCD. This machine still has a problem with the Chroma, it's definitely got an issue, since I also just got a Retrotink 5X Pro yesterday, which will function without a Chroma signal, and hooking up to that, with the UGV on the problem machine, the Chroma is mostly non-functional, but it is flickering on and off, so have to figure out why it's doing that, but at least I know the video isn't completely dead, just that my monitor has to have both signals.

No problem, just thought if it was something quick, you might know.

I'm guessing this is probably a long shot, but I'm looking for a 1200XL Case in good to excellent condition, and not yellowed.

Didn't have a lot of time to do stuff last night, forgot to take pictures. Tested continuity between Antic and GTIA, except for Address, and D# lines. Replaced LS08 with new F08, pulled the 4050, checked continuity between chip leg and back traces on GTIA and Antic, checked power/gnd. Everything looks to be ok, nothing immediately obvious is poking out. I'll have more time this weekend to look into it in a bit more depth. I'll be looking at signal lines for patterns/voltages out of Sams Computerfacts, any others you might look for?

Sorry should have mentioned, I have tried a different GTIA from a working machine, also the UGV that I have been swapping between machines, the GTIA has stayed in the UGV, so it is definitely working, just no picture when I put into this particular machine.

Yes, stock 800XL, fully socketed, had bad ram which had been replaced a while ago. I'm looking at 800XL schematics, and since UGV pulls signals directly off GTIA, wondering which transistors I should look at, since the 4050 isn't coming into play, unless possibly a failure in that section, is causing a feedback to GTIA, corrupting signals to UGV (just completely spitballing here..)?

@mytek, trying to track down non-working onboard video, in an otherwise working 800XL (can hear functional audio/SIO sounds). Have plugged in a known working good UGV/GTIA, into this 800XL, and am not getting video out of the UGV either, it is outputting directly to the S-video jack board, not to the Din5. I've tested this UGV/GTIA "module" in 3 other machines, and it works fine, but plugged into this 800XL, no video, and have re-verified it works in other machines. What would cause UGV to not output video in this machine, but otherwise work in others? Since the machine is booting, GTIA is working. I'm guessing this will be the source of the onboard stock video problem as well. It is an NTSC machine, and the Din5 video was definitely working in the past. I also swapped the Antic for a known working good. Any ideas off the top of your head?

4050 hasn't been removed on any machines so far, as I'm only using an s-video jack temporarily, until I finish mounting everything. UGV isn't mounted in 4050 slot, it goes under the GTIA. Literally, I have been popping the UGV/GTIA out as a module, and just pulling the GTIA on machines, and swapping. S-video jack is not mounted anywhere, just on the UGV S-video partner (Mytek designed) board, on the end of the cables coming out of the UGV, just kind of hanging out of the machine. The machine had been modified to bring out the Chroma signal to the Din5, and had worked just fine in the past. When I plugged it in recently to test it, didn't get anything out of the Din5, though I haven't tested the Composite connection yet, but since the UGV isn't working, my guess is that Composite won't work either. RF Modulator has been removed in the past as well. Initially thought the machine might be dead, but happened to have S-Drive Max plugged in, and it started loading Dos, so I suspected that the machine was working, and after hooking up audio, verified that it was. I can take pictures, when I get home later, but not sure it will tell you anything, other than the Chroma line on the bottom of the board, everything else is stock, other than the UGV, which has the S-video jack hanging off it. Can a machine boot w/o GTIA? I haven't had a chance to probe the board yet for voltages/signals.

Oh, forgot to mention that, the GTIA has stayed with the UGV as a module when swapped into other machines, so it definitely works. I'll give the transistors a check, luckily I have a bag of 2N3904s if necessary around here somewhere..

I know this machine's video worked before, but I'm not getting anything out of the 5-pin DIN, except audio. The machine is definitely working, I can load something from Dos, typing in a memorized command, it's happily making SIO noises, and self test audio works as well. However, I put a UGV in thinking it might be an issue with the monitor port for some reason, maybe a bad 4050. UGV is connected directly to an S-video jack, and is not going through the DIN5. I know the UGV is working, as I have tested in in 3 other machines. I still get no video even with UGV, so thought it might be the Antic, and swapped that for a known working good, but still no joy. I'll start tracing down signals later, but was hoping maybe someone ran into something like this before?

Saw the warning about upgrading to JED 1.3, I did update to 0.69, seems to be working ok. Some questions, is there a compelling reason to go to 1.3? Is there a method to tilt the odds more to success on updating? I bought my SIDE3 from Vintage Computer Center, which sadly is no more. If I do have problems, I don't seem to have the vendor I purchased from, to talk to regarding this. Who would I talk to about getting the JED updated, if it is inadvertently bricked? Brewing Academy?

How do I update the SDX Image in SIDE3? Tried loading the Side3.rom in SDX Imager, but that didn't work, I'm guessing because it isn't JUST SDX that is in the .rom file. Maybe UFLASH? EDIT: Nevermind, I think I just figured it out. I just checked back on that other thread that I quoted.. lol..

I'm now trying to setup SIDE3 in a standalone functionality (no U1MB), in Altirra and running into the same issue where it doesn't use the config.sys that is on the D1: on the SD card. The Fast Boot setting doesn't seem to have any effect on this. Searching through some threads I found this: I did try to use the MERGE command, either standalone, or with MERGE DEFAULTS, but seems that it still isn't using the config.sys on D1: (SD Card). Is this a case where the config.sys on the CAR: image probably has to be modified, or might I be missing something?

I just remembered seeing that earlier today, literally right now before I saw your reply. That was it. Again thanks a lot!

Thanks a lot, that did it! I have the XEL-CF3 device installed, it's coming up as D1:, and I have a config.sys file in the root, but it isn't reading it during boot. I even setup Config.sys, and Boot Drive to D1: in the U1MB setup page, PBI hard disk is enabled.

Wasn't sure if I should post this here, already did in the Altirra thread, but I figured @flashjazzcat might know the issues that I'm running into. I've run into a REALLY strange problem, and I know I have done this in the past. I'm trying to setup a 1088XEL system to match the one I physically have, to test stuff out. I've checked the Enable Ultimate 1MB under memory, and put the XELNOGOS.ROM in as a U1MB Firmware, under the Firmware Manager. When it boots, I have no keyboard, so I can't change any settings in the "bios". If I try loading the ULTNOGOS.ROM instead, and reboot the system, the keyboard works in the "bios" settings. Any ideas why the keyboard would fail using the 1088XEL firmware, and not the U1MB firmware? It's using the exact same keyboard settings, so it can't be that.

Thanks, I was trying to use the Virtual hard disks, it doesn't list any of those options. Probably because I was having issues formatting floppies, so was just using the pre-created SDFS floppies, and those seemed to work (w/o formatting), so I think I had the same mindset on this, and didn't try that option (seems stupid of me now). I seem to have gotten past the floppy formatting issue, by changing the Default write mode to Read/write, the default is Virtual Read/Write (prohibit format), though I did change that specifically when in Disk Drives, mapping the drive images. On another note, I've run into a REALLY strange problem, and I know I have done this in the past. I'm trying to setup a 1088XEL system to match the one I physically have, to test stuff out. I've checked the Enable Ultimate 1MB under memory, and put the XELNOGOS.ROM in as a U1MB Firmware, under the Firmware Manager. When it boots, I have no keyboard, so I can't change any settings in the "bios". If I try loading the ULTNOGOS.ROM instead, and reboot the system, the keyboard works in the "bios" settings. Any ideas why the keyboard would fail using the 1088XEL firmware, and not the U1MB firmware? It's using the exact same keyboard settings, so it can't be that.

I must be missing something here, how do I go about creating a Virtual Hard Disk in Altirra? According to one thread, that I can't seem to find any longer, there is a menu command under System, Create VHD, which doesn't seem to be there. I've scoured the help file, and done searches in the forum, mentions of VHD, but I didn't see how to create one. Trying to setup SIDE3, and can select a directory, but I don't see how to specify size, and I sort of got it working, but it doesn't save anything to the drive. I'm sure I'm missing something. The other problem that I'm running into, is when I try to format a floppy in Spartados X, as soon as I try to specify Unit#, I was getting an Altirra Error dialog, but now it just hangs, with a graphic line corruption, either way trying to format a floppy didn't seem to work for me. Any ideas?

So you're the one who has been snatching these all up. I actually had to pass on the first one, I wasn't sure about the discoloring/staining on the top, curious if it cleaned up? Seller said they couldn't easily clean it off.

You might just want to consider getting a programmer. I ended up getting a TL866II+ a number of years back. I guess there is a newer version https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804232971223.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allProduct.8148356.24.76463ee3kEP3eo&pdp_npi=3%40dis!USD!US %2479.99!US %2471.19!!!!!%402103231116866941569922646ef5d4!12000029681183274!sh!US!834105329&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa It can program the roms, and I use EEPROMS instead of the UV EPROMS, much easier since the programmer can erase and program those. It's not that expensive and can test DRAM/SRAM as well. It also saved my butt on a 1MB firmware update that bricked it, I was able to pull the chips and reflash them directly. For the 1050 you would most likely need a rom adapter like this https://www.go4retro.com/products/23xx-adapter/ because finding that small an EEPROM I found impossible. You can flash your own OS and Basic roms, and cartridge roms as well. I really only bought it for a single use case, but as I've gone down the rabbit hole with A8s, I found more and more use out of it. With the additional adapters for the different packages, it can do a lot. There isn't that much to know, you get the rom file, and program it to the EEPROM. The only real issues, are because the ones that are available, are larger than the original Roms, you have to use an adapter, and basically fill the rest of the EEProm with the same code a few times, or get more fancy and have an adapter that can select more the one set of code, so for instance, you could have the both the OEM Atari code, and US Doubler on the same rom, with a switch/jumper to select between them.

Yeah, sorry, I don't currently have the expertise in 3D modeling to do anything like that. Maybe if it's simple enough, you could talk to Screamingattheradio, to see if he can create the plunger, that seems like it would be less complex, than the stem he created for the switch. Not sure about the keycaps though. If he was willing to do it, he would need to have physical examples of each, I think.

I think a Resin 3D printer would have the resolution you would need. Screamingattheradio's 130XE Mechanical keyboard project, initially had replacement stems specifically for the Kalih Box Switch. Apparently JLPCB also does 3D printing on both Resin, and FDM printers as well. I think all you would need is a 3D model of the plunger.