mtshark7

Omg! So the flash boy is still in development? It's been in development since 2007!

That's the site I was actually using as a guide to figure out how to fix it, lol. Well I did some more testing with it yesterday, I read somewhere that you can adjust the POT to get the lens to focus and finally read the disc. Doing this I found out that the previous owner had replaced the lens cos the original one wasn't working and this one he replaced it with I think might be the wrong one. The lens used on Sega CD Model 1 are Sony KSS-240A lens. The one that the previous owner replaced it with was JVC, which they probably got confused cos it might go with an X'Eye. Not 100% sure if my assumption is correct tho. If anyone knows I'd appreciate their insight. So with the Sega CD the lens has to recognize the CD before the disc motor starts spinning right? The parts that do work in the drive are the cd tray door...it doesn't get stuck at all. The laser lens does move back to it's default position when the unit is powered on. Also, the unit knows that the CD tray is open/closed, once I close it tho it doesn't pop up with reading disc. It stays press reset to eject the cd tray. Then when it's ejected it says press start to close the cd tray. If I buy the Sony replacement lens and install it would that fix the problem? Also is there any tutorial on how to replace the lens on the Sega CD Model 1? A few more websites I used for reference: http://www.sega-16.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-20028.html http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?160430-New-lens-or-new-CD-mechanism-for-my-Sega-CD-model-1 http://www.piersolar.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=1630

Hey I got a Sega CD from a yard sale this past weekend and it loads up the bios, but when I try to load up a game the CD won't spin. I took it apart and saw that the CD doesn't move. I hear the lens moving but the motor won't spin the CD. I looked online and I cleaned the lens with alcohol and I cleaned the ribbon cables going from and to the motherboard and it still won't work. I hear you can also adjust the POT, I don't know where it is located in the unit. I don't know what else I could try to get this thing to work...any suggestions would greatly be appreciated! Thanks! -Mark

Purchased a Pac Man lamp off of Tim. Everything went well like usual. Thanks again! AAA+++

Oooh good point! I'm so used to every one knowing the difference between the two, lol. I've updated the original post with an excellent video explaining the differences between the two. IndyJones1023: Could you post a pic of the front of the unit so I could verify if it is a light 6-switch? If so I'll provide you with a link to the light 6-switch forum on here. Thanks!

List Updated! IndyJones1023: See post above to clarify so I can add you to the list.

Hey I don't think that's a valid serial number? They usually end with a letter if it's NTSC. Do you have pics you could post? PAL units are just numbers for the serial number, usually 5 numbers. NTSC serial numbers end with a letter. NTSC is USA. PAL is UK.

I'm down for a copy once ready

Oh ok....well I decided to try it out since it won't hurt it anyway, and it works! Only thing is that there is a slight hum from the speakers...would this be an issue or should I not worry about it?

I found an old Compaq ac adapter that has a rating as follows: Input 120v 360Hz Output DC 7.5v 300mA The polarity is the same as the one for turbo express. I was wondering if it would work for the turbo express. Thanks!

For me I can only think of two out of my collection that sucks: 1. Checkered Flag 2. White Men Can't Jump The other three I'd agree are bad based on reviews and videos: 1. Fight For Life 2. Double Dragon V 3. Club Drive

Hey I just got into neo geo this year by picking up a neo geo cd unit and been buying games to build my new collection. I was wondering is last hope available for the neo geo cd? If so where could I buy one at? Thanks!

Tim I might be interested since I just finished my taxes, and now waiting for my tax return; this would be nice to have for my future game room

Did another awesome transaction with Scott! Bought a copy of Metal Slug for Neo Geo CD. Everything went smoothly and arrived in perfect condition! Super highly recommended! Great person to deal with! AAA+++! Thanks again!

I just beat Assassin's Creed 4 for PS4 yesterday...definitely one of my favorite assassin's creed games ever!

thegamezmaster: On the dead one...did you take the 'working' power supply from the one that displays grey blocks to see if it will power up? The console with the grey blocks "this is usually garbage data that starts when you turn it on without a game inserted" try using contract cleaner and alcohol on the motherboard to clean out and dust or dirt that might be on the unit...also use the q tip with alcohol on the cartridge connector to clean them out as well....also clean the game carts with alcohol swab as well...and see if that will get that unit back to working order. To test power...here is where you can find +5VDC: Finding a place to tap GND and +5VDC off of the Odyssey2 board to power the video amp is easy. GND can be found all over the place, especially in the area of the board shown at left; just pick a good spot attached somewhere to the ground plane. +5V can be had at the decoupling capacitor attached to pin 16 of either of the two 16-pin TTL chips. In retrospect, I think I could've also tapped power right off of the 3-pin connector that fed power and signal to the RF modulator – but at the time, I didn't have a schematic to follow, so it seemed best to pick off power from someplace I was sure of. 7400-series TTL chips in DIP packaging are always a good place to start looking for +5V and GND traces, since almost all of them (with very few exceptions) have their power pins in the same locations: if it's a 14-pin DIP, GND will be on pin 7, +5V on pin 14; for a 16-pin DIP, GND = pin 7, +5V = pin 16... and so on.

Have done my very first trade with wongojack and everything went perfectly! We both enjoy each others trades and it ended up a win win for both of us. Great person to deal with and highly recommended! AAA+++

I would totally buy a copy if this ever gets released even tho I already own it for the O2...I just recently bought a 7800 mint cond. CIB with everything and 2 controllers for $60. Need some games for it! haha

Haha I know how you feel Brad, my girlfriend thinks I hoard too much too! Awesome looking console! Too bad I already own 3 2600's :-/. Good luck with the sale!

Well I got the replacement power supply in the mail yesterday and (so far) it fixed the problem! Has anyone else had this type of problem with their ps3 slims?

Bought a few misc. manuals and everything went great! Thanks again! :-)

ok good! Thanks! :-) I just hope this fixes the problem...this will be my 3rd time fixing this damn system for my friend, lol.

Actually I was wrong about the serial number above...not sure what serial number that belongs to, lol.. the correct serial number is: CG829692264-CECH-2501A. It seems I could buy either a APS-250 or an APS 270...would that be what I need? Kida0723: I don't think the APS-240 would work cos it looks like the FAT model PS3 power supplies and the slim is the long rectangle shape one. I took out the defective power supply and here is the info on it: Model: EADP-200DB AC Input: 100-240V~ 2.6-1.0A 50/60 Hz DC Output: +12V = 16A +5.5V = 0.9A

Wanted to bump this again...my friend and I are certain it's the power supply that's defective. I also tested the power and it goes out on the output end. I been looking at buying a replacement power supply and there are TONs of different ones on ebay! Does it matter which one I buy? I kinda figured they are all the same. The Serial No for the PS3 Slim is: KU60935936 (I think) Any help would greatly be appreciated.Thanks!

Chris: Yea i figured as much....I'm just glad it won't damage my console, that was my main concern. Would you or anyone know what I should use for next time?