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Everything posted by boxpressed

  1. I have an original XB One 500GB model that I bought from Goodwill a while back. It worked fine for a while, but then the display started to go on the fritz, and then I didn't get a display at all. I realized that the HDMI Out port had been damaged--a couple of pins are exposed. Maybe I pulled out the plastic around the pins when plugging and unplugging a cable. You can see it from a couple of angles in the photos below. I don't want to pay to repair this, and I don't have the skills to do it myself. I'm still logged in with my user info from the last time the display worked. I was wondering if I could wipe the info from the unit and sell it for parts or just recycle it. Is it as easy as opening the case and removing the HDD? Thanks for any advice!
  2. Got my replacement joycons today. Look brand new. Took a little less than a month for turnaround.
  3. The 8BitDo BT adapters are only $11.47 now on Amazon.
  4. Thank you! I went ahead and ordered a Seagull 78 to pair with it too.
  5. Apologies if this has been brought up in another thread, but I just got one of these and want to use it with my 7800, among other consoles. I realize that there won't be two-button functionality. Looking for some peace of mind that it is safe to use with the 7800 from folks who have done so for a while. Thanks!
  6. The British have a pretty good catalog too, including Elite, Golden Eye, and Tomb Raider. https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2014/jun/03/30-greatest-british-video-games
  7. This is going to reveal my own ignorance, but I'm trying to think of truly world-beating games that were not from Japan and the US, and the only one I can think of is Tetris. I'm thinking about games that even non-gamers would recognize and have played, but that's a little different from the OP's criteria, I think.
  8. I was using it with Asteroids because I had forgotten which bin I had stashed my Starplex in. I bought it mostly as a collectible. It worked pretty well with Beamrider.
  9. Thank you for noticing the hydraulic lift. The PVM rolls around like butter on it. The controller is a KY Enterprises Fingertip Controller that was a DIY back in the day.
  10. I know, but why not keep all the connections in place while the console is in the box? There would be no plugging and unplugging from the console at all. You carefully lift the console out of the box, connections in place, and put it on the floor or a shelf. And wearing out the prongs on the AC adapter? Or breaking a connection in the wire itself because the wire bends the wrong way? Man, if the console is really that fragile a box isn't going to help. I'm going to bow out here because I'm beginning to realize that the need to take these steps this isn't about the console at all.
  11. But I don't understand how keeping it in a box will reduce wear and tear on the connectors. If you hold the console in one hand and the AC adapter in another, is the weight of six inches of the cord going to produce enough torque to KO your 7800? This is a serious question--not trying to troll.
  12. OK, I'll play. What, exactly, is the problem expressed by the OP?
  13. Bill, a little off-topic, but have you written anything about what the hobby (and life in general) is like after you sold most of your collection? It would be a welcome read.
  14. Yes, it's almost like they are speaking a language that only the two of them understand.
  15. For me, it's 486 to Pentium 3 era PCs, a roughly 12-year period. Mostly hardware, and then mostly sound and video cards. The ISA sound cards are most interesting to me because there was so much difference across them that they capture the range of innovation and imagination of the period for me. I have about 70 ISA sound cards (not all unique). Most had to be Sound Blaster compatible, but some were good at the FM synth implementation and others weren't. But it is the variety of wavetable synths that makes these cards collectible to me. Video cards may make playing Doom a little faster or slower, but sound cards really change the experience, almost like the feeling you get playing a console game on different platforms.
  16. I received this promotion on one account but not the other. Be sure to check yours before you make a large purchase!
  17. Thanks. I ended up buying a new set anyway and will be sure to keep my receipt and even the original packaging.
  18. Green for me. Commodore PET in middle school, IBM PC XT in high school.
  19. I wonder what an Xbox 360 with VGA output cable set to 1024x768 would look like on my 15" CRT VGA. I would need a 15 pin D-Sub male-to-female adapter because both the Xbox 360 VGA output cable and the CRT have male connectors.
  20. Some examples I keep may be exceptions to the rules above. For example, I have gatefold versions of Burgertime and Mission X, but I wonder whether they came out after their non-gatefold versions. Same goes for Buzz Bombers, but I don’t have a gatefold version of that title. I think I’ll hang onto both variants of these Mattel titles bc there aren’t a lot of them. I hope.
  21. Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm glad to know that there are USA versions of all the KC titles. It turns out that I have only four USA KC titles sealed. It'll be calming to focus on getting the rest of those rather than chasing every sealed variant of every title as I used to do. I have about 120 sealed variants that "lose" out to a "keeper" using the criteria above (some doubles), so this is a serious streamlining of the collection. I think I'm going to have to not use "older" as a criterion because these are all sealed and I can't know if a tray is included or not. I wouldn't even trust weighing the box. I'm just going to go with the USA versions if I can.
  22. It's been several years since I actively collected sealed Intellivision games, and it's time to recover some space by getting rid of variants. I'd like to know what you would keep when given a choice of variants. I basically want a "original" sealed US collection (as much as possible). I don't have any sealed FCTVVO games, so the collection won't be THAT original. But basically an "original" over "variant" collection. The problem is distinguishing what is "original" and what is a "variant." Here are the criteria: 1. If there is a Mattel version of the game, I will keep it and get rid of the Intellivision Inc. version (even if the titles are different) 2. If there is a box that says "Keyboard Component" in the lower right, I will get rid of the ones that don't mention it 3. If there is a cartridge "Made in the USA" Mattel version, I will keep it and get rid of the HK, Singapore, Taiwan, and Various origins 4. If there is a gatefold version of the game, I will get rid of the non-gatefold versions I know it's not perfect, but does this seem like a good set of criteria to go by? One problem that arises has to do with the "Made in Hong Kong" box that mentions the Keyboard Component and a "Made in the USA" that does NOT mention the Keyboard Component. I'm keeping the former in this case. When there is a "Made in Hong Kong" game that mentions the Keyboard Component, was there always a "Made in USA" counterpart that also mentioned the Keyboard Component? So far, I've come across several KC titles that I don't have the USA version of. These are all sealed games, so it could be just that it exists and I haven't run across a sealed version. Thanks for your help!
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