boxpressed

I feel kind of dumb for asking, but it didn't fit into the consoles in my collection. Thanks for your help!

Thank you. I can't use another Windows 98 box, but you should be able to sell it on eBay. It looks like you have a Trident 3dImage AGP graphics card (even though it says PCI -- I'd check to make sure) and a Diamond Sonic Impact S100 PCI sound card. These aren't rare or collectible cards. But the motherboard looks like it has an Intel 440BX chipset, which is a classic. You should find out what kind of CPU is in it. The case is very clean, and it is what people would want the most from the system. I would say you could probably get at least $100 for it on eBay. Depending on the make, the mobo could be worth anywhere from $40-$100 by itself.

Got this offer on one eBay account but not the other. Check yours before you make a big purchase!

Yes, go to Control Panel, then go to System, the go to Device Manager (I think). You should see a list of the hardware.

That's a nice case. What are the video card and sound card?

Not sure if they changed the price, but it's now $14.98, one penny less than the minimum price to use the coupon. I picked up Far Cry 5 instead, which is $14.99, and so $4.99 after the coupon.

OK, 94GB download of GTA 5 started. Really just getting it for benchmarking.

This question is most interesting to me if we DO own the system and DON'T own a multicart. For me, I think it is: Gameboy (1) Xbox One (2 physical) Jaguar (3)

It depends on whether you want the "out of box" experience or not. I prefer vanilla Windows 98SE without any bloatware, and it should run just fine if you have an Intel 440LX or 440BX chipset.

I received an offer on one of my accounts but not the other. Check your homepage just in case: What is the Promotion? 5% in eBay Bucks on every qualifying item (the “Promotion”). Who's eligible? Only invited, registered eBay Bucks participants who receive the promotional offer from eBay in My Messages are eligible. Sorry, no forwarding—the offer is not transferable. Promotion details The Promotion starts at 5:00AM PT on May 4th, 2020 and ends at 11:59PM PT on May 6th, 2020 (the “Promotion Period”). The Promotion applies to any qualifying items purchased during the Promotion Period that meet the minimum purchase requirement. You must activate the offer to qualify. *Qualifying items exclude all items in the following categories: Classifieds; Business & Industrial, but only for Heavy Equipment within that category; Real Estate; Gift Cards & Coupons, including eBay Gift Cards, Gift Cards, and Digital Gifts within that category; Bullion within the Coins & Paper category; and all categories in Motors, except Parts & Accessories. Rewards are capped at $100 per transaction and $500 per Earn Period. See eBay Bucks Terms & Conditions for other program restrictions. Purchases must be completed during the Promotion Period and paid for before the Promotion ends. eBay reserves the right to cancel, amend, or revoke the Promotion at any time.

If you want to spend the money, a Voodoo 3 PCI is the best choice. As for Nvidia, it might be difficult to find PCI versions of Geforce 2 cards, but I'm surprised to hear there are fakes of such common cards. Your best best might be ATI Radeon 7000 PCI cards (on up to Radeon 9250 PCI, but that's a little overkill).

I've been meaning to try out a DOM solution. Do you have a brand you recommend?

Good choice to go with a 3.5" IDE drive. You can buy NOS "white label" IDE HDDs for about $20. They are name brand HDD, but you don't know which brand you'll get. I recently ordered a 120GB drive and received a 180GB Maxtor. I use CF drives for my DOS and Windows 3.1 builds. I don't trust them with 98SE because of all the swapping. The era where the P2-300 appeared was such a great era for gaming. Get a Geforce 2 card or a Voodoo 3 (if you're willing to spend $) and enjoy Unreal, Quake 2, etc. You can play demanding DOS games like Duke 3D and Blood with your stock video. I'm not sure if the Presario included an AGP slot, but all the better if so.

Who is it?

Adlib cards (and clones) don't need to set any variables in AUTOEXEC. The game just knows where to look for the hardware. Not sure why--maybe because there wasn't a choice of ports, IRQ, DMA, etc. Just this week I installed my first Adlib clone and fired up Wolfenstein 3D, and the game detected the card.

My guess is that the seller wants to "punish" the watchers. Sociopathic behavior, if you ask me. I love my SS7 build. Back in the day, I researched the market and bought an FIC VA-503+ (baby AT). About five years ago, I built a new system with the exact same board. The coin battery was still working after twenty years. Dropped in a K6-3+ and oc'd it to 550MHz. I couldn't afford a P2 or P3 system back then, and although I have Slot 1 systems out the wazoo now, the SS7 is still my favorite. I rigged the case buttons to manipulate the FSB speed between 66MHz and 100MHz and use SETMUL to change the multiplier/disable cache. I can run it from 550MHz to 386 speeds without opening the case.

Over the past couple of weeks, I've had two sales go south AFTER a buyer made me a best offer. In both cases, the offer was about 30% below the BIN, and I wanted to move these things out, so I accepted. Then the buyers don't pay and don't respond to messages. I opened unpaid item cases, and after a week or so, eBay lets you close the case and refunds your selling fees. But I'm more interested in the psychology of this behavior. It seems stranger than hitting a BIN and having buyer's remorse. I guess you could get sticker shock once you see the total with shipping and--now--sales tax. One buyer had 0 feedback, and the other had 11, so it could have been just a game on their part. Which makes the psychological angle even weirder.

I bought some Pentium CPUs from OLD CS1, and it was a great transaction all-round. Good communication about shipping options, and the items were professionally packed!

I just sold a game after a long back and forth. The game was $15.99 OBO. The buyer started at $10, I think, and I countered with $13.99, which was as low as I was willing to go ($15.99 was the cheapest already). They countered with $12, and I rejected. They offered $12.99. Rejected. Then $13.89. At this point, I realized this was the kind of buyer that just wanted to "win." Rejected. Finally, they offered $13.99, and I accepted.

If anyone knows of a good replacement battery and vendor, I'd appreciate hearing about it, thanks!

PM sent.

Today is eBay Bucks redemption day! Check your email. Don't forget about it like I did last quarter. ?

Sold an item today with best offer at 40% off BIN price. Buyer opened with 50% off, and I countered with 30% off. We ended up splitting the difference. I don't normally counter lowball offers, but the value of this item has dropped a lot since I first listed it a few months ago. I just didn't pay attention. That's another thing I like about best offer: you don't have to monitor values of your items and reprice stuff--the buyer does it for you.

Just had five best offers in a row rejected. I was trying to buy four sticks of PC133 SDRAM. The seller is selling a pair for $15.99. I made of offer of $11.99 per pair, quantity 2, which may have been a little low. Rejected. Then I went to $12.00 because I thought the threshold was an even number. Nope. $13. Rejected. $14 was rejected too. And $15. So now I have to buy at $15.99, the regular price. I'm guessing a $0.50 discount would be accepted? That's, what, 3%? I didn't buy. I went rummaging and found the memory I needed in my own stock, lol.

Overall, I like the Best Offer option as a buyer and a seller. I never use it for anything rare that I really want because anything truly undervalued in most video game categories will be scooped up by a BIN within 30 minutes tops. I've been in the slightly-embarrassing situation of trying to save 20% or so with an offer, then coming back after a few minutes to pay full price because I feared someone else doing the same. It can still be useful to submit an offer on an item you really want on the off-chance that the seller has set an auto-accept threshold. This is still a little risky because it will take you a little extra time to go back and buy the item at full price in case of no auto accept. I think it has added back a little of the "fun" eBay had when it was mostly auctions. BIN really took away a lot of the fun, and Best Offer returns what a lot of folks liked about eBay: the feeling that you were getting a deal. As a seller, it's helped me get rid of a lot of less-collectible/lower-condition stuff and still turn a small profit.