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Dennis90

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Posts posted by Dennis90

  2. Posted

    I tested some more now. I measured the voltage between the upper "orange" leg in my photo, and a big ground area, and it seems to be the same voltage as when I measure it between both of those "orange" legs, so that did not make any difference. But when i measured between the upper "green" leg and a big ground area, the voltage was the same as on the "orange" side, but I guess that is normal? And I also measured with the B/W switch off, that did not make any difference.

  3. Posted

    I measured it and on one side it was 5,something volts, slightly decreasing all the time, and on the other side, it was 1,something volts, slightly increasing all the time, so it does not seem stable I guess? If I measured it correctly. I measured it like this:

    20201203_114443.thumb.jpg.19ff2b3b3c55a4b59fdda6956686a653.jpg

  5. Posted

    Hm, the AC adapter I use is fine tho at least, but could there still be a problem with the power current? And I have tried different TIA chips, and it did not seem to help.

    I did the AV mods myself. And you mean the 75R is part of the mod? If so, I did not use one. And I only have CRTs, the image is dark and weird on 2 of my CRTs I tested with. Here is a photo of what it looks like:20201202_2212222.thumb.jpg.2fec6eff8a5dc599a471d031f71fa480.jpg

    And you can also see it looks kinda weird in those places I drew circles around, adjusting the color pot does not take that away.

    And I first tried this mod on both of these consoles: Transitor-mod-watermark.thumb.jpg.ba197bb2666c1138d41f840be68e35e5.jpg

    And then I thought maybe another mod might work better since I got video problems, so I found this one and tried it on both consoles: https://www.console-corner.de/videomod.html

    But that other mod did not change anything really, maybe the image looked slightly different, but yeah, still got the same video problems.

  6. Posted

    I have not been able to fix this console yet. I also noticed that when you turn on the console without having it plugged in, the LED turns off very quickly, it does not seem to hold any charge, other jr. consoles I have seem to hold the charge much longer, it takes a few seconds for the LED to gradually turn off, but this console does it very quickly in comparison. Seems kinda weird since I changed the electrolytic capacitors.

    I also have problem with another junior console, everything works perfectly, except the image is quite dark and ugly looking, any idea what can be the problem here? It's also AV modded.

  7. Posted

    I messed around a bit with connecting the pins and such, the image got different, but it was never good or stable at all, so I gave up XD

    I searched around to try find a good NTSC to PAL adapter instead, was pretty hard to find anything, but I eventually found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Videosysteem-Converter-NTSC-naar-PAL/293690063760?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 So I bought one and I got it today and this one seemd to do the trick! It just converts the signal to PAL60! :) So I don't have to mess around with the RGB converter anymore XD But thanks for the help! :)

    • Like 1

  8. Posted

    Yeah I see, was afraid I probably got the wrong RGB adapter. The cable I use that goes from the adapter to SCART on my TV has those three red, green and blue RCA connectors in one end, and a SCART connector in the other. I looked inside the SCART connector housing to see which pins where connected to the RCA connectors in the other end, you can see in the diagram here that I quickly made.

    Okay, but if I would use composite as sync, then I need to split the composite cable from the Famicom so it goes both into the RGsB converter and also into the SCART connector to the TV I guess?

    Oh, that sounds good if it keeps the 60hz signal, maybe I could get one of those instead of this RGsB converter perhaps, do you know where I can get one or know any brand/make? Cus I already got two different PAL/NTSC composite converters, and they are pretty terrible, they convert the hertz from 60hz to 50hz, and also removes the interlacing making the image choppy, and creates ghosting and other bad artifacts, so those are not ideal to use for gaming.

    Aha yeah, too bad my TV can't handle it, it is from like 2001 I think, so would had hoped it could handle NTSC via composite.

    rgb cable.jpg

  9. Posted

    I have a composite video modded Famicom console that I'm trying to hook up to a PAL CRT TV with SCART input that supports 60hz, but I have some problems. I used an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-Video-Component-Video-Converter/dp/B01GW8UE18 to convert the NTSC composite signal to RGB, but I never really get any good picture from it. It can output RGsB (Sync on Green) or YCbCr, but I'm wondering if maybe my TV does not accept those kinda signals? And I need like RGB with sync on composite or whatever it's called instead? Cus I have some other stuff that I can connect to SCART via RGB and it works, like my Sega Mega Drive. So I wonder, is there any way to convert the RGsB signal to like the same kinda RGB signal that my Sega Mega Drive uses? I heard about some chip called LM1881 that can convert RGB sync signals, is it possible to make some circuit that can convert RGsB signal with that chip or something?

    Or also, another thought I had, is it somehow possible to convert a composite NTSC color signal to a PAL color signal and keeping the 60hz? Or maybe modify my TV so it will support both PAL and NTSC composite color? Cus since my TV supports 60hz, the Famicom gives a nice clean picture when I hook it up, but yeah, it's in black & white.


    Hope someone can help! :)

  10. Posted

    I have a Junior console that's acting weird, the color gradually changes by itself when turned on and after a little while goes black & white. When you turn the console off and directly back on again, the color may come back, but just a few seconds. Then if you wait a while and turn it back on again, the colors will probably stay on a bit longer, but yeah, then gradually change and go black & white again like before. The Color/B&W switch works fine, and I replaced the big electrolytic capacitor, the four small 4.7uf electrolytic capacitors and the voltage regulator with new ones but I still have the same problem. I also replaced the color adjustment pot taken from another console, but that did not change anything either. So not sure what to do now, is there any other capacitors i should try change or something that can cause this problem? Can some of the non electrolytic ones cause this problem perhaps? It's AV modded with a transistor and 2x resistors btw. Hope someone can help!

  16. Posted

    I have this nice old woodgrain PAL TV made by Salora that I use for gaming etc, but it only has RF input unfortunatley, so I kind of wondered if it whould be possible to composite and RGB mod it somehow? The Schematics can be found here: https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/tv/salora-1g3-1g5-12236/

    I saw the schematics for the TDA3560 chip says something about composite and RGB: http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/T/D/A/3/TDA3560.shtml

     

    So I guess there's something you can do with that chip then if it whould be possible? Hope someone can help that may know these kinda stuff better than me! :)

     

  18. Posted

    Okay, both my consoles are dissasembled now cus I had been messing around with them, but you can see here in this photo it does not have a power switch, and that black cable is just soldered to those 4 pins normally and goes trough the power switch hole and then connected to the power supply, seems a bit tacky I think they did like that. And oh, so some swedish models had a power switch then, all I have seen have just had that cable sticking out. I have been thinking about adding a power switch to the console if it whould be possible Anyone got any ideas how a switch could be wired up? Cus it seems a little confusing when it has 4 diffrent cables for 12v and 5v etc.

    post-30021-0-28301300-1522679025_thumb.jpg

  19. Posted · Edited by Dennis90

    I got the console to work again! after a closer inspection I saw a cheramic capacitor had a crack in it, so after replacing it started to work! And saw you replied just as I was writing this, too bad I did not worte a few minutes earlier, but thanks for your advice and help anyway! :) And btw, so does the other PAL consoles have a power switch? cus the swedish consoles don't for some weird reason... you just pull the cord out to turn it off.

  20. Posted · Edited by Dennis90

    One thing that annoys me with the PAL version of the Luxor Video Entertainment (Fairchild Channel F) model 1 is that it does not have an on/off switch and the only way to turn the console on and off is to pull out the power cord (It is like this on the swedish PAL version at least) So now I wonder, is it possible to add an on/off switch to the PAL console? Or if I could get some info on how the on/off switch on the NTSC consoles are wired, cus it seems a little confusing to me since there is 4 cords that goes into the console from the Power Supply. And the PAL consoles have the same shell as the NTSC ones it seems like cus it still has a square hole on the back made for an on/off switch, and it says "ON/OFF" at the back too so it should probably look nice to add one.

    Edit: Oops! I'm sorry! Seems I accidently posted this in the wrong part of the forum... Hope someone can move this to the right place.

  22. Posted · Edited by Dennis90

    I have a Luxor Video Entertainment System (Fairchild Channel F) PAL version, model 1, that does not work at all. When I plug it in, nothing happens, the LED inside does not even turn on. Any ideas what could be wrong? Hope I can get some help here to fix it! I tested the 3 main socketed IC chips in another working console I got and confirmed all 3 worked fine at least.

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